Build a Shed Roof

Building a shed roof may sound difficult, but it is actually very doable. The height is the only difficult issue. If you are building a shed from a kit, then most likely the roof is pre-assembled (or cut). If that is the case, it is only a matter of following the instructions. For the purpose of this article, however, you will build a shed roof from scratch. You will find that building the shed roof is actually a very satisfactory experience. The roof encloses the shed and makes it a protective and viable space for your belongings.

Steps

  1. Begin construction by determining the height (or pitch) of the roof. Once that is determined, you can begin construction.
  2. Install a support brace at the front and back of the shed to temporarily hold it in place during the building process, attaching it to the top plate of the wall.
    • The support brace is made up of 3 each 2 X 4's (50 X 200 mm) with the 2 outer boards being 3 inches longer than the one in the middle. The middle piece is shorter because that is where the ridge beam sits.
  3. Attach a 2 X 8 (50 X 400mm) ridge beam to the support brace.
  4. Cut four 2 X 4's to be used as rafters to a length that is 1 foot (30.5 cm) longer than the ridge.
  5. Notch a slot (known as a bird mouth) at the point where the rafter meets the wall. This enables it to seat firmly onto the wall. You will need to install one of these at each end and on each side.
  6. Prepare enough rafters to match the length and notch each one to equal 16-inch (45.75 cm) spacing. If the span is not too great between the ridge and exterior wall, you can increase the spacing to 24 inches (61 cm).
  7. Mount the rafters by attaching them at the ridge and at the exterior walls.
  8. Frame in (or install) studs at each of the ends of the roof and cover them with wall covering.
  9. Choose roof sheathing appropriate for your shed. Choices would be plywood, metal or fiberglass.
    • At each horizontal joint, install 2 X 4's (50 X 200 mm) of appropriate length (called purloins) between the rafters.
    • Plywood roof decking (or sheathing) -- cut to fit -- needs to be attached to the purloins.
  10. Add fascia on the end of the rafters and a perforated soffit on the underside of the rafter between the fascia and the exterior wall.
  11. Use wood for roof sheathing then add roof shingles.

Tips

  • Using fiberglass or metal roofing allows you to complete the roof and avoid the cost of roofing shingles.
  • Begin laying plywood from the bottom to the top, lapping the sheets so that the vertical joints are off-set.
  • If you live in a climate that has lot of ice and snow in the winter, a greater pitch may be needed to avoid accumulation roof collapse.
  • Keep a safety rope handy.
  • When the materials are metal or fiberglass, use 24-inch (61 cm) spacing for the rafters, as the metal and fiberglass panels come in 24-inch (61cm) widths.
  • A good rule of thumb to follow is a 3:1 slope-for every 3 units of measurement out goes one unit up.

Warnings

  • Remember the height you will be working at -- secure the ladder to prevent it from accidentally slipping.

Things You'll Need

  • Framing and decking nails
  • Plywood decking or metal/fiberglass roofing
  • 7 2 X 4 (50 X 200 mm) boards
  • 2 X 8 (50 X 400mm) ridge beam
  • Perforated fascia and soffit panels cut to size
  • Ladder
  • Saw horses
  • Framing hammer
  • Speed square
  • Hand saw
  • Miter saw
  • Circular saw
  • Safety rope

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Sources and Citations

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