Care for a Crested Gecko

Also known as the eyelash gecko, Cresties are a great choice for wannabe reptile owners or experienced reptilia keepers. They are easy to care for, well-mannered, and relatively cheap to own. Thought extinct until rediscovered in 1994, these geckos were found in New Caledonia after a tropical storm. A crested gecko's diet usually includes meal replacement powder (commonly known as MRP) and insects (such as crickets, and Dubia roaches). They used to be an endangered species, but now millions of people own them as pets. Here's how to care for them.

Steps

  1. Get a terrarium (10 gallon minimum). You want to have an a smaller terrarium (12"x12"x18") until the gecko is a year old, then upgrade to a larger terrarium (18"x18"x 24"). Terrariums are like cages, except they are made of glass, and inside there are plastic plants and substrate. Substrate is the bottom, the dirt. Beware though, geckos have been known to die from ingesting coconut substrate. The best way to go is Eco Earth with moss or bark on top. The Eco Earth will help you retain moisture. Repti Carpet is also a cheap and safe way to go. However it will not hold humidity as well as Eco Earth - it is also known to hold bacteria if not cleaned often. Paper towels are generally recommended for juveniles and hatchlings, as they allow you to monitor how much they are pooping without too much trouble.
  2. Set up the terrarium. Well, your gecko needs a home! In the terrarium there should be: food bowl, substrate, many plastic/live plants, branches, vines and a background (optional). A lot of cover and area to climb is very important to make your gecko feel safe. It is highly suggested to provide much foliage, and things to climb, as crested geckos are an arboreal species; thus needing high places to climb to feel secure. Thick, leafy artificial (or organically grown, non-toxic live plants!) are perfect for crested geckos, as well as reptile vines, driftwood, cork hollows and sticks. A water dish should be provided for humidity control and a source for them to drink from, however they mostly drink water droplets from leaves and the sides; this is one reason why you must spray the tank.
  3. Get a sprayer and a hygrometer. Their cage needs to be moist, and geckos get their water from mist, naturally, not from a water bowl. The water bowl is for humidity control and the rare occasion your gecko goes to drink from it. You need to mist the terrarium twice a day. After spraying the humidity should be at least 60% and no more than 80% because mold will start to form above 80%. The humidity should drop to no lower than 40% before misting again
  4. Keep the temperatures between 70-80 degrees. Temperatures over 85 can cause your crested gecko to be prone to heat strokes. Any less than 65 will cause great amounts of stress and can kill your animal very quickly.
  5. Get the gecko. If you're getting more than 1 gecko, you will need a second enclosure. It is generally NOT recommended to house crested geckos together, as they are a solitary species. Crested geckos will not get lonely like mammals do, so don't worry about them needing a "friend"! Males are very territorial, and should never be housed together. Housing both a male and female together - while not recommended - can result in breeding, and the female becoming gravid ("pregnant") It is not recommended to allow your crested geckos to breed unless you have done an ample amount of research on them first. Breeding animals without special care can result in calcium crashes and death for your animals.
  6. Do not hold your gecko for 1-2 weeks after purchasing, this allows the gecko to acclimate and reduces stress during the environmental shift. After 1-2 weeks try holding your animal for a few minutes a day, and once your animal gets comfortable with you you can gradually increase handling time. Remember, crested geckos tend to jump - often without warning. Hold your gecko over a flat surface, such as a table or desk, so they do not fall too far if they end up jumping away.
    • Always support your animal with your hands, and never hold your crested gecko by the tail, or pull on the tail, as this will cause the animal great stress, injury and tail loss. A crested gecko's tail will never grow back, and will instead form a small stump called a "frog butt".
  7. Feed your gecko the right food. Repashy Crested Gecko Diet is a complete diet, and is the best food available on the market. Pangea Crested Gecko Diet is also recommended. Try out different flavors with your crested gecko to see what he likes best. Make sure you buy complete diets - not just fruit mixtures! You can also feed them calcium dusted crickets but the main food still should be the commercial powder diets (Repashy/Pangea). Do NOT feed baby food, jelly cups or other artificial sweets. Leave the Crested Gecko Diet in the cage for up to two days at a time, switching it out for freshly prepared Crested Gecko Diet after the second night.
  8. Gut-loaded and dusted crickets can be offered once a week.
  9. Follow these steps and you will be sure to have a happy, healthy gecko!



Tips

  • Have lots of plants for the crested gecko to climb on.
  • Make sure the ten gallon or more is tall, not wide. Crested geckos are arboreal which means they climb, and need space to do so.
  • The bigger the enclosure for your gecko is, the better. The extra space will be appreciated. However, a space too big may freak them out. Base the size of the enclosure on the size of your gecko, and inquire about the right size at your local breeder, or other gecko keepers.
  • If your gecko does not eat or defecate, take it to a reptile vet ASAP.
  • If you have a terrarium where the door(s) swing out try to place the things your gecko can climb on near the back of the terrarium so the gecko doesn't stick a limb out of the gap on the side of the door and accidentally sever or injure a limb when you close the door.
  • Do your research and make a guide so if you have any questions later on, it will be easier to find the answer.
  • Geckos may lose their tails if stressed. It is very gross, but your gecko is OK if it loses its tail. My gecko has no tail and he is ok. But he will never grow it back.
  • Avoid particular types of substrate, such as coconut husk or bark, as your gecko may ingest this and their intestines become obstructed or impacted.

Warnings

  • Take your crested gecko to the vet if it grows any BIG bumps on its body.
  • Take your gecko to the vet if he is having trouble shedding.
  • Your crested gecko may lose its tail.

Things You'll Need

  • Minimum {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} tank
  • Temperature regulation items
  • Mister
  • Food and water bowls
  • Twigs, branches and leaves (preferably artificial or approved by a vet.)
  • Substrate material (sphagnum moss is best!)
  • Hideout (try rock caves, logs, bamboo, or even coconut halves)
  • Gecko

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