Care for a House Rabbit

A house rabbit can be a fun addition to the family. However, these animals will need to have as much care as a dog or a cat. Rabbits typically live eight to 12 years, so they require a long-term commitment from their owners.[1] There are certain rules you need to follow and preparations you need to make before you decide to have one. Once you are ready for a rabbit, you can learn to take care of one in your home.

Steps

Learning About Your Rabbit’s Needs

  1. Be prepared for a rabbit. Rabbits are not low-maintenance animals. They require the same amount of time, money, and care as dogs and cats. They require a water bowl, a high-quality rabbit food, toys, as much exercise as a dog, and a litter tray. Plus they need your daily attention.
    • These animals have their own personalities and take special care. Think about getting a lower maintenance animal if you don’t think you have the time and money to care for a rabbit.[2]
  2. Spend enough time with your rabbit. Rabbits need company and companionship from you, especially if he is your only pet. You should spend at least three hours a day with your rabbit outside of his cage, but he may like more time inside the cage as well. Spend this time playing with him. Give him cardboard tubes, phone books, and rolling toys, which rabbits love.
    • Rabbits will get lonely and depressed if they don’t have enough human interaction every day. Make sure you can devote enough time to them.
    • If you can’t be with your rabbit long enough each day, consider getting another rabbit. Make sure you house them separately until you properly introduce them so they can bond. Rabbits do not like to share space unless they have been specially bonded.[3]
  3. Avoid cuddling your rabbit too much. Although rabbits look like adorable little balls of fluff, they don’t enjoy being cuddled and hugged too much. Rabbits are more likely to be afraid of being hugged, especially if you lean over then and try to pick them up. Since they are prey animals, this reminds them of being hunted by hawks and other birds, which can frighten them.
    • A few rabbits will tolerate being stroked for long periods of time, while most will enjoy it for short periods. Occasionally, rabbits will even nip you when you stop.
    • This will vary from animal to animal. Judge your rabbit’s personality and find the best way to approach and pick him up.[3]
  4. Be cautious with kids. Children, especially rambunctious ones, can scare rabbits immensely. Rabbits will feel as if they are being attacked by a predator if a small child is yelling and screaming around them. Never let a child chase your rabbit around the house or try to pick them up after doing so. The rabbit will feel threatened and may lash out.
    • Many kids aren't gentle and may hurt a rabbit while trying to pet them. Children five years or younger shouldn't have a rabbit.[4]

Getting Ready to Get a Rabbit

  1. Decide what kind of rabbit you want. There are many factors to consider when choosing a rabbit. Decide if you want a specific kind of rabbit and if you want him to have a pedigree. There are many different breeds, which will vary in size and coloring as well as temperament. You also need to decide if you want a male or female rabbit and what approximate age you want your rabbit to be.
    • Do research on all the different breeds if you are unsure of what kind you want.[5]
  2. Look for a place to buy a rabbit. There are multiple different places you can get a rabbit. The type of rabbit you choose may decide where you get one from. If you don’t care much about the specific factors, you can look to a rescue center and choose from their rabbits. These also have the benefit of being older, have usually gone through the awkward adolescent phase, and are typically spayed or neutered.
    • You can also buy from a pet store. The quality of these establishments can vary, so look for a store with well-kept animals and informed staff.
    • If you have a specific kind in mind, you can look to breeders for a particular rabbit type. You may also learn about the lineage of the rabbit. These rabbits also tend to be more socialized when you adopt them, since they have been handled since birth by the breeders.[5]
  3. Find the right vet. When you get a rabbit, you have to make sure you know a vet that can take care of him. Find a vet who has had plenty of experience with rabbits and small animals, as their care is different from that of cats and dogs. Then, once you get your rabbit, take him for a check-up to make sure he is healthy.
    • He should also be taken for regular check-ups, just like other house pets.
    • This will make it easier if you have an emergency with your rabbit, since the vet will already know him.[6]
  4. Handle your rabbit properly. When you are about to get a rabbit, teach everyone in your home how to handle her. This is especially important if you have young children. Make sure everyone knows rabbits hate being picked up and show them how to pick up a rabbit correctly.
    • Rabbits can struggle when they become fearful. They may try to escape from what they see as a frightful situation. They can break their own back in the process, often suffering a fatal paralysis, if picked up incorrectly.[7]
    • To pick her up properly, scoop the rabbit up using one arm along the side of the body with the opposite hand under the rear end. As you lift her up, bring the rabbit into the side of your body to give further support.
  5. Rabbit-proof your home. Before you get a rabbit, you need to ensure no harm can possibly come to the rabbit when he hops around your house. Rabbits will chew wires if they see them. Make sure your electrical cords, computer wires, and any other cables are covered or inaccessible. Purchase plastic cable or wire wrap or tubes to get them out of the way.
    • You can also run wires and cable behind furniture or securely along the wall out of your rabbit’s reach.[8]
    • Never run cables or wires or cords under carpet. This can cause a fire.

Buying the Right Supplies

  1. Buy a large cage. Before you bring your rabbit home, make sure you have all the right equipment for her. This way, when your new pet comes home, everything will be ready and she can move in with minimum fuss. The first thing you need is a secure rabbit cage. Although your rabbit will be outside of her home base a lot of the time, she should have her own safe haven away from everything else. This should be just her. This is where she will sleep each night and also where she can retreat to when she feels annoyed or unsafe.
    • This could be a large, roomy cage or even a dog pen. Just make sure your rabbit feels safe here.[9]
  2. Find the right bedding. The bedding you need for your rabbit will vary. Experiment with different types of bedding to see what your rabbit likes best. Common options are shredded paper, straw, and hay. Try to avoid most wood shavings, because they may inhaled by accident.
    • If you do use wood shavings, avoid cedar, pine, and other scented shavings. [9]
  3. Get a proper litter box. Since your rabbit lives indoors, he will need a litter box. There isn’t one perfect litter box for all rabbits. Your rabbit may prefer boxes with covers, and the height of the sides may also vary, since some may be too high or too low for him. Start with a cat litter box that is big enough for him to lie in comfortably.
    • You may think about getting several boxes. This way, your rabbit will be able to run around the whole house without needing to all the way to the other end of the house to do his business.
    • The type of litter can also change depending on your rabbit. Experiment with different kinds. Common types include silica cat litter, shredded paper, wood shavings that aren’t pine or cedar, straw, and hay.
    • Make sure it doesn't clump and it isn't made of clay. These things may harm your rabbit if he swallows them or breaths them in. [9]
  4. Buy the right food bowl. You rabbit will need her own food bowl. Make sure it's made of a heavy material, such as ceramic. This helps the bunny keep her bowl right side up, since most rabbits like to tip their food bowls over.
    • Also ensure the sides are high enough to keep the food in but low enough for your rabbit to from eat comfortably. [9]
  5. Get a water bottle or bowl. Water bottles often come with cages, but it's still a good idea to have a few. It is more natural for him to drink out of a bowl, but these can be knocked over, unlike the water bottle.
    • Water bottles can be annoying for your rabbit. If you see this, switch to a heavy, ceramic water bowl.[9]
  6. Pick the right foods. The ideal foods for rabbits are grass and hay, which is what their gut is designed to process. Ideally, give the majority of your rabbit's food as fresh green hay. Supplement this with a small amount of extruded (each kibble looks the same) pellets and fresh fruit and vegetables. Common vegetables include broccoli, bok choy, carrot tops, beet tops, cilantro, collards, Brussel sprouts, kale, cabbage, and other greens.
    • Avoid allowing the rabbit around-the-clock access to pellets, as she will probably become overweight and unhealthy. Also avoid rabbit foods with bright colors, nuts, seeds, and fruit in them. These are usually high in sugar and carbohydrates.
    • If you are unsure of what kinds of vegetables to use, ask your veterinarian or local rabbit breeder for their advice on food.
    • Avoid vitamins as a supplement to your bunny's diet. Healthy rabbits really don't need them.
    • Despite common perception, giving a rabbit too many carrots can be very harmful. They enjoy carrots as small treats, but you should not feed carrots to rabbits daily. Weekly is usually fine.[10]
  7. Provide entertainment. Just like other house pets, your rabbit needs toys. Buy a variety of toys for him, such as a chewing toy or a tunnel with spaces to go. You can make some yourself, such as a cardboard box with rabbit-sized holes.
    • A great homemade chew toy is a twig of untreated Applewood tree. Make sure the twig is clean and untreated before you give it to him.
    • If you choose another tree type, make sure it isn't poisonous and leave it to dry for at least six months before you give it to him. Applewood, however, does not require this treatment. Just make sure it's clean and untreated.
    • Make sure you get toys that have different purposes. Different rabbits enjoy different toys. [9]
  8. Give you rabbit plenty of hay. This is possibly the most versatile thing for rabbit owners. Hay provides bedding, food, and entertainment for your rabbit, and it can be used as litter. It's important to use good hay. For most rabbits, timothy hay is the best to use.
    • When your rabbit eats hay, it provides necessary fiber for his digestive functioning.[11]
    • Hay also provides a great digging spot for rabbits. These are often extremely entertaining for rabbits, especially if you hide treats, such as pieces of apples or Cheerios in it. You can also use shredded paper as well for a digging spot. [9]

Getting the Right Rabbit

  1. Pick a litter. If you plan on getting a kit, also known as a baby rabbit, you need to follow certain guidelines. When you go to get her, look at the size, color, temperament, and health of the parents to get an idea of how your rabbit will likely turn out. Try playing with the parents to see how they behave first-hand, which will give you a sense of how your rabbit may act.
    • If you notice something unusual, ask the owner of the parents about the parent’s personality and temperament. They may act different because you’re a stranger or because you are near their litter.
  2. Choose a kit. If you like the look of the parents, you may want to pick one of their kits. See how he responds to you. Don't choose the rabbit that cowers against his mother, even if you feel sorry for him, because he will most likely not be a friendly pet. Instead, choose the rabbit that hops towards you and sniffs you. To further help you choose, you need to inspect the health of the kit. Look for things such as:[5]
    • Clean, bright eyes, which do not have mucus, a crust, or other foreign elements in or near them.
    • Clean ears, unobstructed by wax and smell-free.
    • Clean, untangled, and smell-free fur.
    • Being devoid of ticks, fleas, or other parasites on his skin.
    • A lack of clumping or issues in the fur around their anus, as this can suggest major health problems.
    • Responsive and excited, without being overly jumpy or trembling.
    • No outward signs of illness, such as sneezing, nasal discharge, hair loss, or dental issues.
  3. Adopt an adult rabbit. Adult rabbits should be chosen slightly differently than kits. Go to wherever you chose to get your new pet. Wherever you choose to look for rabbits, find all the adult rabbits. Check to make sure they seem happy and responsive. Avoid rabbits that look mean or are aggressive. They also need to be healthy.
    • The characteristics of a healthy adult rabbit are the same as those for a healthy kit. Check all the outward signs of health, including the eyes, ears, and fur.
    • Shelters are great places to adopt adult rabbits. They are often already spayed or neutered. Plus, you are giving a rabbit a second chance.[12]
  4. Pick your favorite. Once you check the overall health of the rabbits, you can pick your favorite. Make sure you take your time. The rabbit you choose will spend the next eight or so years with you, so you need to find a good match. Play with the rabbits you like to find out if she is the right one for you. See if she likes you, too.
    • Remember she may be slightly shy and nervous at first because you’re new to her. Just check for general sign of temperament and socialization.
    • Once you find one, ask some follow-up questions before you take her home. These include inquiries about her eating habits, her litter, and her age.[13]

Bonding With Your Rabbit

  1. Watch him. When you first bring your rabbit home, you need to watch how he interacts with his environment. Watch where he goes to the bathroom, how he reacts to other people in your household, how he reacts to the toys, which toys he enjoys and ignores, and how he reacts to the room in which you put him.
    • Don’t worry if he just sits in a corner for a few minutes, then eats, then lies down when you first get him. Do not disturb him, no matter what he does. He is adjusting to his new environment.
    • During this first few days, leave him in his cage. Every day, find time to sit next to the rabbit and talk to him in a low, quiet voice. [14]
  2. Let him out of the cage. Once your rabbit seems to get used to you, you can let him out of his cage. Close all the doors of the room his cage is in. If one entrance doesn’t have a door, block it for the time being. Next, let your rabbit out of his cage. Don't lift him out, but open the door of it and let him hop out on his own.
    • Sit in the middle of the room, doing something quiet such as reading, listening to quiet music, or writing. [14]
    • Have some vegetables with you in case he gets curious.
  3. Allow him interact with you. Once your rabbit comes out of the cage, let him hop around on his own. Don't make him come to you and don't move around too much. He will eventually hop over to you, curious about what you’re doing and who you are. When he does, let him sniff you, then offer a small piece of vegetable, about the size of a thumbnail.
    • If he seems cautious, sit still and talk quietly to him. Don't move too quickly because you may scare him. [14]
  4. Wait. If your bunny takes some time coming to you, wait for her to do so. If she gets close and she doesn't take the vegetable, simply put it down and go back to your activity. Ignore her until she eventually comes to the food. When she does, let her eat it.
    • After she eats the first piece, offer her another small piece. If she comes over to eat it then, stay still and talk quietly to her.[14]
  5. Pet him. Once he comes up to you and lets you feed him, slowly start stroking him on his head after he is finished eating. If he stays still or lowers his head to the ground, keep going. If he flinches or runs away, stop and go back to your activity. You have to wait for him to approach one more time and try again. [14]
    • If he bites you, squeal loudly. This will let him know that you are in pain, which will make it clear to him that he hurt you.
  6. Keep trying. If you are having a hard time, you need to keep trying. Switch between offering him a small piece of vegetable, stroking him, and ignoring him completely. If he approaches you, try feeding him again. If he head-butts you, he wants attention. Stroke him if he does this.
    • Repeat this every few days until you become bonded with your new pet rabbit.

Tips

  • If you plan on getting a male and a female at the same time, you must neuter and spay them. Remember that even litter mates will breed with each other. Also, female rabbits can become sexually mature as young as five months. If you don't neuter the male, he will spray everywhere and will try to copulate with any of a variety of species.
  • Check your rabbit’s teeth once a month. Their teeth can become misaligned and may need trimming. If they are misaligned or you notice a lot of drool around the mouth or problems with eating take them to the veterinarian.
  • Keep your rabbit from overheating. Since rabbits are constantly wearing fur coats, they do best in slightly cooler temperatures.
  • Never scare your rabbit, as they can suffer from fatal heart attacks.

Related Articles

Sources and Citations

  1. ↑ http://www.merckvetmanual.com/pethealth/exotic_pets/rabbits/description_and_physical_characteristics_of_rabbits.html
  2. ↑ http://www.indianahrs.org/rabbit-care/rabbits-as-pets.aspx
  3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 http://www.indianahrs.org/rabbit-care/rabbits-as-pets.aspx
  4. ↑ http://rabbit.org/faq-children-and-rabbits/
  5. ↑ 5.0 5.1 5.2 http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=18+1803&aid=2511
  6. ↑ http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=18+1803&aid=2511
  7. ↑ http://www.rabbit.org/journal/3-11/lift.html
  8. ↑ http://rabbit.org/faq-rabbit-proofing/
  9. ↑ 9.0 9.1 9.2 9.3 9.4 9.5 9.6 http://rabbit.org/rabbit-supply-list/
  10. ↑ http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/diet.html
  11. ↑ http://www.rspca.org.uk/adviceandwelfare/pets/rabbits/diet/planner
  12. ↑ http://www.bunnyhugga.com/guide-to-rabbits/choosing-a-rabbit.html
  13. ↑ http://www.bunnyhugga.com/guide-to-rabbits/choosing-a-rabbit.html
  14. ↑ 14.0 14.1 14.2 14.3 14.4 http://www.rabbit.org/journal/4-3/new-home.html

You may like

Retrieved from "https://kipkis.com/index.php?title=Care_for_a_House_Rabbit&oldid=283916"