Care for a Tarantula

So you've just brought home a new, eight-legged little friend. What now? This article describes some of the basics about caring for a tarantula as a pet. Follow these steps, and you and your tarantula will be off to a great start.

Steps

  1. Research your pet. Many tarantulas have many different needs. Make sure you fully understand the diet, temperature requirements and humidity levels that your specific tarantula needs. Most tarantulas will eat fruit flies, crickets, small frogs, lizards, or pinkie mice, depending on the size and species of the tarantula.
    • Find out where your type of tarantula typically lives. Some tarantulas live in trees (arboreal) where height is more important than ground space. If you have a tarantula that lives on the ground (ground dwelling/opportunistic burrowing), then it's more important to have room for the tarantula to walk around. Native climate will also dictate the ideal temperature and humidity levels for your species of tarantula.
  2. Purchase a suitable container for your tarantula. Make sure you use a tank or Critter Keeper that meets your tarantula's needs. This will vary depending on the size and species of tarantula. Critter Keepers can be purchased from most pet stores. Aquariums work well, as long as the top is sealed in a way that the tarantula cannot escape. Remember tarantulas can climb glass very easily. To a tarantula, a piece of glass is like a 'jagged rock face' due to the many tiny "hooks" on their pads / feet. Don't make the tank too big, as a tarantula does not need a lot of space. More space makes it easier for its prey (crickets) to hide or get away from the tarantula. Make sure that the enclosure size is approximately twice the leg span of your pet in depth, front to back. For burrowing species, the cage should only be tall enough for there to be twice the leg span from substrate to cover. Any extra vertical room poses a threat to burrowing species because they are more susceptible to injuries from falling, unlike arboreal species. Tarantulas do not require a large area to be happy in captivity.
  3. Place a good few inches (at the very least 2 inches) of substrate at the bottom of the tank. This prevents the tank from getting too dry and holds in moisture when you mist the tank. Some species of tarantulas will dig into the substrate and might need up to 5" of substrate. The depth of the substrate should be no less than the leg span of your pet from the surface of the substrate to the top of the enclosure to prevent injuries due to falls which can rupture the opisthosoma (abdomen) of your pet. Fill the enclosure with an all Organic Potting soil such as Black Gold All Organic Potting soil, or Canadian Peat Moss, or if you choose, you can mix a combination of both for an acceptable substrate. Many nurseries carry such products. The main criteria is that it be listed by the Organic Materials Review Institute [OMRI] if possible to ensure no additives such as fertilizers are included.
  4. Provide your tarantula with a water source such as a water bowl which can be of the pet store variety or as simple as a plastic jar lid depending on the size of your pet. It should be large enough that your tarantula can submerge its Chelicera and fangs to drink from the source. Never use a sponge, paper towel, cotton, or cricket gel for your tarantula to drink from as these can harbor harmful bacteria in large quantities. The bowl does not need to be any deeper than about one inch for an adult spider, less according to size. Do not be alarmed if you do not see your pet tarantula drink out from the water bowl. Most rarely do, but the water dish is highly recommended for humidity purposes.
  5. Decorate according to the specific needs of the tarantula. Tree dwelling species will need branches and tall things to climb on, while ground dwelling species should be discouraged from climbing as they could easily fall and injure themselves. Remember, the more you put in, the more you have got to clean....and you will have to clean the enclosure at some time. Some people like to decorate the interior with silk plants, leaves etc. It is not necessary and is more of a personal choice rather than a requirement for their habitat. A piece of store bought driftwood might be appreciated. Remember, simple is best. Make it low tech and enjoyable.
  6. Provide some form of security for your tarantula in the form of a pre-made burrow or hide something such as partially buried clay flowerpot. This will allow your pet to escape light and reduce stress. As many tarantulas are obligate burrows by nature you can provide a pre-made burrow in the following manner.
  7. Feed it the right stuff. Feeding is inexpensive and easy. All pet tarantulas are insectivores, meaning they eat insects! they are also opportunists, some able to subdue small lizards, snakes, birds and mammals such as mice. Crickets are the mainstays of the diet of captive specimens although some hobbyists feed roaches as well. Crickets can be purchased at most pet stores. Roaches generally have to be ordered online and a colony started to ensure a constant supply of roaches as a food source. Some roaches are able to climb glass so it is advisable to learn how to keep them contained. Many keepers use a ring of petroleum jelly around the top of the roach container to keep the roaches from crossing the petroleum jelly and escaping.



Tips

  • You don't need auxiliary lighting. All arachnids shy away from light. They are nocturnal hunters and prefer to hunt after dark. Lights only produce stress for your pet and can make them skittish. A happy spider is an unseen spider.
  • Unless you have special circumstances, you don't need additional heat sources. If you do, apply the heat source such as a heat mat to the side of the enclosure not the bottom. Generally room temperatures are fine. If you feel comfortable then more than likely your spider is as well.
  • Remember that common sense is all that is needed to provide a safe, interesting and educational experience with tarantulas. They make great pets because they are interesting; beautiful with their various color patterns, safe, quiet, disease free, odor free and easy to care for. So get your setup ready, join a forum, read up on keeping tarantulas as pets and become prepared to become addicted to the wonderful world of the tarantula!
  • Start with one of the generally accepted starter species such as-
    • Grammostola rosea
    • Grammostola aureostriata
    • Eupalaestrus campestratus
    • Brachypelma smithi
    • Brachypelma emilia
    • Aphonopelma chalcodes
    • Avicularia avicularia
    • Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens
    • Brachypelma albopilosum
    • Grammostola pulchra
  • Try to find a dealer that is familiar with tarantulas or, better still, a specialist reptile / arachnid store. They can give you a lot of information about care and what to expect with your new pet.
  • Make sure you know the scientific name (for example: Haplopelma lividum) for the species of tarantula you buy. It's much easier to find information by the scientific name than it is by the common name.
  • Keep the interior of the enclosure dry and well ventilated to prevent the outbreak of mites and mold in your enclosure. Most all species of tarantulas available in the pet trade including those from rain forest regions can be adapted to dryer conditions in captivity. Trying to control specific temperature/humidity parameters is often problematic and may have consequences. The need for misting is nothing more than an urban legend. That being said, it may prove beneficial to arboreals as they may drink the dew formed on their webs. Do not overdo it.
  • Using an old paper towel roll tube. Dig out a corner in your enclosure leaving about two inches or so of substrate in the bottom. Stand your tube upright in the corner and slowly, carefully backfill in around the tube compacting firmly with medium pressure until filled in. If you've done this correctly you can then slowly and carefully lift straight up on the tube removing it and leaving a perfectly formed burrow for your pet to find and use.
  • It is not necessary to purchase a large quantity of crickets from your favorite pet store. Your pet can live on two or three crickets about every 12-14 days. Six crickets a month is perfectly fine for an average size tarantula and this is not a hard and fast rule, but rather, general guideline. Overfeeding can lead to problems and is not necessary for a healthy pet. If you feel like feeding six to eight crickets per month that is OK too.
  • Gain basic husbandry experience before moving up to more demanding species, including those that are fast or more defensive.
  • This article should only be used provide direction and give understanding about the needs of a Tarantula. Every species has its own needs and will require additional research. Use the internet, local library or reputable pet shop that sells tarantulas, to find out what is best for your particular species and as stated above, using the Latin name on the internet will bring the best results.
  • Some tarantula species are known for their aggression; being knowledgeable about specific species before you begin to choose one as a pet is a great way to know how to be the best handler and caregiver depending on what your eight-legged friend's personality is.
  • Join a forum and participate. There are many family friendly arachnid forums which you can join. There are also some publications that can be educational as well. A few forums that are well worthwhile might include those listed listed below in the external links section.

Warnings

  • Some tarantulas flick their hairs (they are called "urticating" hairs), which are extremely painful and dangerous if they get into your eyes or nasal passage and could require hospital treatment. These hairs will also cause irritation to the skin. Not all species have these hairs. Make sure you research your tarantula and know if this should be a concern. After putting your hands inside the tank, for any reason, you should IMMEDIATELY wash your hands before doing anything else.
  • Don't overfeed your tarantula. Most tarantulas can live on 5-6 crickets a month. Some tarantulas can go a few months without feeding. If you are concerned, a good dealer or knowledgeable keeper will advise you but remember, they will ALWAYS need water. Overfeeding will cause the tarantula’s abdomen to blow up like a balloon, and this could cause it to rupture.
  • No species of tarantulas can be handled 100% safely and holding a tarantula is certainly not recommended by any expert. Tarantulas are extremely delicate and can be very unpredictable, as they rely on a base instinct developed over millions of years. A drop from a few inches can rupture the abdomen and your tarantula will suffer a slow, painful death.
  • Most people have an instinctive fear of tarantulas and you should never use a tarantula to intimidate or scare anyone. This can be extremely stressful to a person and could result in the tarantula being injured.
  • Tarantulas cannot be kept together in the same tank; they will kill or eat each other, even if they are of the same type and different sex. ( Don't forget, given the chance, a female tarantula will kill and eat a male after mating.
  • All spiders and tarantulas are venomous and all will bite if provoked. Remember, a tarantula is a wild creature and relies on millions of years of evolutionary instinct. They cannot be 'tamed' like a dog or cat. All they have is a different 'tolerance' level to human contact. Although there have been no reports of anyone dying from a tarantula bite, there are people who could react very badly to the venom. Most tarantulas' venom is comparable to the sting of a common honey bee. Some tarantulas venom could cause a very, very severe reaction. You should research your individual species and avoid contact with your tarantula accordingly. The safest thing is to never handle your tarantula as it is not a 'natural' thing to do. Not for the tarantula or for humans.
  • Tarantulas will bite and will do so if provoked. They are wild animals that need special care and attention. They're not recommended for children under 16.

Things You'll Need

  • Tarantula or Spiderling (Baby Tarantula)
  • Critter keeper or aquarium that has a tight fitting lid. (the lid should be sufficiently heavy enough to stop a tarantula lifting it, as they are stronger than they look)
  • Substrate (dirt) that is pesticide and fertilizer free (ground coconut fiber works well)
  • Decorations ( to the minimum of its 'natural' environment)
  • Heat Source (i.e.reptile heat pad), Heat lights are NOT recommended as these do not provide the correct "type" of heat and can cause dangerous burning for the tarantula)
  • Temperature and humidity gauge
  • Small water dish about 2" works well filled with gravel or a couple of small, cleaned stones ( but never any kind of cotton) to prevent crickets from drowning.
  • An understanding partner / roommate / brother / sister or parents....etc. It is advisable to ask other people who live with you if it would be acceptable to bring a tarantula into the home. Asking first could save you a rapid trip back to the shop.

Related Articles

Sources and Citations

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