Create Corkscrew Curls

Corkscrew curls are beautiful, springy curls. If you don't have them naturally, the only way to get them is to curl your hair. There is a special trick to doing this, however. While you can use just about any method to curl your hair, the thickness of the curler or rod is very important. What you do with your hair after you take the curlers out is also important. Using the wrong thickness or combing your hair can result in regular curls, or worse: frizz!

Steps

Using a Curling Rod

  1. Apply a heat protectant. Use a comb or brush to help distribute the product throughout your hair. If your hair is tangled or knotted, now would be a good time to brush it as well.
  2. Separate your hair into smaller sections. Pull all of your hair, except for the bottom-most layer, up into a high ponytail. Tie it off, preferably with a scrunchie and not a hair tie. A hair tie is more likely to leave dents in your hair.[1] You can also pile your hair loosely on top of your head and secure it with a claw clip.
  3. Plug in your curling rod and let it heat up. Choose a curling rod with the narrowest diameter possible. If you can, try to find one that is labeled for corkscrew curls. It should be thinner than your finger.
  4. Grab a thin section of hair. Make sure that you are grabbing a section that is closest to your face. It can be on the right or left side. If you have thick hair, grab a slightly thicker sections; if the section is too thin, your curls may end up frizzy.[1]
  5. Wrap a thin section of hair around the rod in a spiral. Don't overlap the hair as you wind it around the rod. Instead, wrap it down the entire length of the rod, like stripes on a candy cane. The rod will get very hot, so be careful not to touch it with your fingers or scalp.[1]
    • If you are worried about burning yourself, consider wearing a pair of protective gloves meant for curling hair.
  6. Wait a few seconds, then remove the rod. Carefully unwind your hair from around the rod. Once your hair is loose enough, slip the rod out, and let the curl hang down naturally.[1]
  7. Move onto the next section. Grab another section right next to the first one that you just curled. Wrap the hair around the rod, wait a few seconds, then unwind it. You can wrap it in the same direction as before, or you can wrap it in the opposite direction for more movement.[1]
  8. Finish the row, then let down the next layer of hair. Once you have finished curling the entire bottom layer of your hair, undo your high ponytail, and let down another layer of hair. Pull the rest of your hair back up into a high ponytail.
    • The thicker your hair is, the more layers you will need to work in.
  9. Repeat the curling process throughout your hair. You can continue wrapping the sections of hair around the rod in the same direction, or you can alternate them. If you alternate them, your curls will look more natural and voluminous.
    • Keep the strands horizontal to your scalp, not vertical.
  10. Loosen the curls with your fingers. This will help make them look more natural. Do not brush or comb your hair, or the curls will turn too fluffy and lose their corkscrew shape.[1]
    • For a more vintage look, part your hair off to the side. Use the handle of a rat-tail comb to create a neat part.
  11. Apply your desired finishing product. Apply some shine serum throughout your hair. This will not only make your curls glossy, but also help smooth them down and eliminate frizz. If you need to, give your hair a light misting of hairspray to set the style.

Using Flexible Mesh Curlers

  1. Purchase a curl former kit. The kit includes strips of mesh or tightly-woven fabric in different widths and colors. It will also include a hook that looks a little like a crochet hook or a latch hook. Plan on using the narrower strips for this method.[2]
  2. Brush or comb your hair. This method is suitable for all hair types, including curly. It is a gentle way to curl straight or wavy hair. If your hair is already curly, you can use it to help further define the curls.[3] If you have natural or kinky hair, consider starting with a blow-out.
  3. Separate your hair into sections. Gather all of your hair, except for the bottom section. Pile it on top of your head and secure it with a claw clip or scrunchie.[2]
  4. Slid a hook through a curl former. Select one of the narrower mesh strips from your curl former kit. Slide the hook through one end until it comes out the other. You will need to scrunch the mesh down to get it to fit on the hook.[2]
    • The mesh curl formers are shaped like flat tubes. If you gently squeeze on the edges, they will open up.
  5. Dampen a thin strand of hair. Take a 1-inch (2.54-centimeter) wide section of hair from close to your face. Spritz it with water until it is damp, but not soaking-wet. You can start from the left or right side.[2]
  6. Catch the strand of hair on the hook. Bring the hook close to your scalp. Slide it over the base of the strand that you just dampened. Make sure that you catch every hair in that strand.[2]
  7. Pull the hook back through the curl former. Hold the curl former at the base of the strand. Use the hook to pull the strand of hair through the curl former. Pull the hook out of the curl former, trapping the hair inside.[2]
  8. Let go of the curl former and move on to the next strand. When you let go of the curl former, it will spring back into its corkscrew shape. Repeat the curling process on the next strand.[2]
  9. Curl the rest of your hair. When you finish curling the bottom row, let down another layer of hair, and curl that as well. The thicker your hair is, the more layers you will need.
  10. Let your hair dry completely. This is very important. If you don't let your hair dry, the curls won't hold and will come out.[2] If you are in a hurry, you can use a blow dryer and a cool setting to help speed the process up.
  11. Slide the curl formers off. Begin with the bottom-most layer and work your way to the top. Resist the urge to brush or comb the curls out, otherwise the curls will turn fluffy and lose their shape. If you need to, you can gently loosen them with your fingers.
  12. Apply your favorite finishing products. Use your fingers to apply a shine serum to the curls, focusing on the ends. If you want, you can use the handle of a rat-tail comb to create a side part. Finish with a light misting of hairspray to set the style, if needed.

Using Straws or Flexible Foam Curlers

  1. Brush through your dry hair. This method is suitable for all hair types, including curly and natural/kinky. If your hair is curly, you can use this method to help further define the curls. If your hair is natural or kinky, consider blow drying it straight first.
  2. Pull the top three-quarters of your hair up into a bun. Secure it with a scrunchie or a claw clip. Leave the bottom fourth of your hair loose. You will be curling this layer first.[4]
  3. Dampen a thin section of hair. Take a 1-inch (2.54-centimeter) section of hair from the bottom layer, close to your face. Spritz it with water just enough to dampen it, but not so much as to soak it.[4]
  4. Wrap your hair tightly around your desired flexible curler. You can use a straw, a strip of fabric, or a store-bought flexible curler made out of foam. Hold the curler over the strand, right next to your scalp. Wrap your hair tightly around the curler.[4]
    • If you are using a store-bought foam curler, choose the thinnest one you can find. Something around the thickness of a pencil would be ideal.
  5. Secure the curler over your hair. If you are using a straw or scrap of fabric, simply tie the ends over your wrapped hair, just like starting to tie a shoe.[4] If you are using a flexible foam curler, you should be able to fold the left and right ends over your wrapped hair.
    • Flexible foam curlers typically have a wire inside them, which will allow them to hold their shape.
  6. Curl the rest of your hair. Finish curling the bottom layer first, then let down another layer of hair. Keep working in 1-inch (2.54-centimeter) sections until you curl all of your hair.
  7. Let your hair dry completely. This is very important. If you don't let your hair dry, the curls won't hold and will lose their shape when you take them out. If you are in a hurry, you can blow dry your hair for about 10 to 15 minutes using a cool setting.[4]
    • You can leave the curlers in overnight. Wrap a silk scarf or bandana over your head to keep the curlers in place.
  8. Remove the curlers. Simply untie the straws or scraps of fabric holding them in place. If you are using a flexible foam curler, then you will need to unfold it. Unwind the curl, then slip the curler out.[4]
  9. Separate the curls, if desired, then apply a finishing product. Do not brush or comb the curls. This will cause them to lose their shape and turn fluffy. Instead, gently separate them with your fingers to give them more volume.[4] Apply some shine serum, if desired. If your hair is naturally straight, it might be a good idea to mist your curls with hairspray to set the style.

Using Hair Rollers for Natural Hair

  1. Prep your hair. Start with damp hair, then apply a moisturizing conditioner to it. Use a brush or comb to help distribute the product and to remove any knots or tangles.[5]
    • This method will work the best on natural or kinky hair, but other hair types can also attempt it.
  2. Section off your hair, if desired. This is not absolutely necessary, but it will help make your hair more manageable. You can apply the rollers randomly, or your can apply them in rows. If you will be applying the rollers in neat rows, then gather all of your hair, except for the bottom-most layer, into a bun.[5]
  3. Take a thin to medium-sized section of hair. Gather the section from the bottom layer of your hair, close to your face. It should be 1 to 2 inches (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters) wide.
  4. Comb a holding gel through your hair. Apply a small amount of holding gel to the strand. Run a comb through the strand while pulling it taut.[5]
  5. Wind the strand around a narrow hair roller. Wrap the end of your hair around the bottom of the curler a few times to secure it. Next, wind your hair around the curler in a spiral (like a candy cane) all the way to your scalp.[5]
    • Use a hair roller specifically designed for corkscrew curls. If you can't find any, use one with the narrowest diameter possible--about the thickness of a pencil.
  6. Secure the hair roller. Most hair rollers come with a clip or clasp of some sort. Simply close the clasp over the roller and lock it in place. If yours didn't come with any, you could try securing it with a bobby pin.
  7. Curl the rest of your hair. Work in thin, even sections, one row at a time. Start from the bottom and work your way to the top.
  8. Let your hair dry overnight. Your hair must be completely dry before you move onto the next step, otherwise the curls will come out.[5] If you are in a hurry, you could sit under a hooded dryer for about 20 minutes.
  9. Remove the hair rollers. Pull off the clasp first, then carefully unwind the roller in the opposite direction you wrapped your hair in. Remove all of the rollers on the bottom layer first, then work your way towards the top of your head.[5]
  10. Add some volume by twisting the curl in the opposite direction. You don't have to do this, but you can if you want to. Twisting the curl in the opposite direction will help fluff it up without creating frizz or distorting its shape. Do not brush or come through the curls, however, or you will get frizz.[5]
  11. Apply some hair oil, if desired. You do not really need hairspray to set the style, but you can apply a little hair oil to help add moisture and shine. You can make the curls last longer by wrapping a silk scarf around your head when going to sleep.[5]

Tips

  • How long your hair takes to dry depends on how thick and porous your hair is. The thicker and more porous your hair is, the longer it will take to dry.
  • Most people will need to section off their hair into four, horizontal layers. If you have very thick hair, however, you may need to work with more layers.
  • Do not comb through the curls when you are done. If you do this, the curls will loosen, lose their corkscrew shape, and turn into a soft, fluffy curl instead.
  • You can use these methods even if your hair is already curly. It will simply help define your curls.
  • How long the curls last depends on your hair type. All curls will come out once you wash your hair, however.
  • You can speed up the drying process with a hairdryer. Be sure to use a cool setting, as this will help set the curl shape.
  • Part your hair off to the side for a vintage look. Use the handle of a rat-tail comb to get a clean part.

Warnings

  • Do not brush your hair after you take the curlers out. If you do, you will soften the curl too much and ruin the corkscrew shape.
  • Do not take hair curlers out while your hair is still damp, or the curls will come out.

Things You'll Need

Using a Curling Rod

  • Thin curling rod (ie: "chopstick curler")
  • Brush or comb
  • Shine serum
  • Hairspray (optional)

Using Curl Formers

  • Curl formers
  • Curl former hook
  • Brush or comb
  • Hairdryer (optional)
  • Spray bottle filled with water
  • Shine serum
  • Hairspray (optional)

Using Straws or Flexible Curlers

  • Brush
  • Spray bottle filled with water
  • Straws, scraps of fabric, or flexible foam hair curlers

Using Hair Rollers for Natural Hair

  • Thin curling rods or rollers
  • Leave-in conditioner
  • Holding gel
  • Comb
  • Hair oil or serum

Sources and Citations

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