Create a Patio

Most people think of a patio as just a small area of garden covered with paving stones rather than grass or flower beds. However, a patio deserves to be much more than that. A patio can serve as a place for many daily activities, from a child's play area when the grass is too wet to an entertainment area for barbecues on long summer evenings. And it can serve as an ideal place to relax in. When creating a patio, the main focus is on the paving and the wall texture, both of which are covered as distinct topics within this article.

Steps

Style of Patio

  1. Consider how you would like your patio to look. A patio doesn't have to be flat. You can combine paving slabs with walling, steps, plants and different materials to build your unique space. You can consider a layered patio if this makes it easier to use the space available, with a step or more down to each level.
    • When working out the design, measure the space first and take into account existing obstacles. How will you use the space available and what will you do about any obstacles?
    • Turn obstacles into features. For example, is there a small native tree you'd like to incorporate rather than knock down? This could be the start of the entire design, as you work around the tree, making the paving go around it and turning it into a focal point rather than seeing it as a nuisance.
    • Plants can be a part of the patio or can be added later. If they are to be a part, this means consideration of including soil as part of the patio's design. If added after, use containers to create an additional sense of design.
  2. Use paving and walling products to create many possibilities for laying out an attractive feature patio or a paved area.
  3. Be prepared to give it a go yourself. Actually laying paving slabs and building walls for the garden are not difficult jobs. You do not need to be a professional to do this sort of work.

Drawing Up the Plans

  1. Prepare. Most people have an idea of how they want their garden to look but perhaps find it difficult to actually put their ideas into action. The secret is in planning in advance.
    • Start with a sheet of graph paper. Using the measurements you've already taken, draw to scale the part of the garden you wish to develop.
    • Mark in any immovable objects, such as the rear wall of the house, the garage, your boundary line. Include any items such as large trees and any other features you wish to keep.
  2. If a patio is to be on raised ground or to be on more than one level, mark the intended location of walling and steps.
  3. Consider the color scheme of the paving. Add interest to a layout by mixing slab colours, or you could leave out the odd slab here and there, to allow plants or shrubs to be grown.
    • Consider laying decorative chippings or gravel in the spaces.
    • Maybe incorporate a water feature or pond into a patio design. Important: If children are to use the area, make sure any water feature has little or no depth; ensure that water cannot pool but drains away quickly.
  4. Work out electrical and drainage needs. Plan any lighting positions, electrical and drainage services early on (for drainage, see the relevant building regulations or talk to a plumber/architect). All cabling and drain runs will need to be in position, underground and protected before starting.
    • Note: All electrical work must conform to the relevant standard in your country (such as BS 7671 in the UK, the current IEE Wiring Regulations, and Part P of Building Regulations). You are advised to check with your local authority's Building Control Department, or an Authorised Competent Person before starting. If in any doubt about electrical work, contact a qualified electrician.
  5. Lay slabs so as to create patterns. The slabs don't always have to be alongside each other - they can be laid as stepping stones across the lawn or as a path beside a border. All ideas like these should be drawn into your scale plan - on paper - before commencing work.
    • As well as printing out the ideas, purchase a few test pavers to try out patterns for real. This can sometimes really transform your ideas about the exact layout because you'll also be seeing and feeling the texture, real color and depth.

Laying Out the Plans On the Site

  1. Once you have made your plans, transfer them into a full size layout on the actual site. Set out using string lines and pegs. This will give you the opportunity to check that everything will be as you want it, and that, for example, not too much space is taken up by over-ambitious planning. Essential information at the planning stage is the size of paving slabs you intend to use, so that these can be incorporated into the design. Wherever possible, plan to use full size slabs to keep cutting to a minimum.
    • Note that the same applies to perimeter walling. You need to know block lengths and widths to be able to put these on the plans reasonably accurately (remembering the mortar gaps). Given accurate plans, you will be able to work out your material requirements more easily.
  2. Be aware of the two essential rules that must be followed if a patio is being laid alongside a house wall:
    • The top of the paving slabs must be at least 150mm/5.9 inches below the house damp proof course.
    • The slabs must be laid with a gentle slope away from the wall to ensure that rainwater runs away from the house. A slope of 50mm/1.9 inches over 3 metres/9.8 feet is the minimum acceptable.
  3. Get the right tools. If the cutting of many paving slabs and walling blocks is necessary, you may find it worthwhile to hire a slab and walling block splitter from a local hire shop, or use a 9 inch/23cm angle grinder. If little cutting is needed, you will be able to make do with a club hammer and bolster chisel.
    • If hardcore needs to be put below paving on soft ground, this must be well compacted. Hire a plate compactor for this.
    • You will also need a good spirit level, ideally 600mm/23.6 inches long.

Budgeting

  1. Budget. It is always a good idea to know roughly the cost of materials required (in metric measurements, you can change these using Google's Metric Converter[1]). Here is an example shopping list for a 3.6 by 2.7m patio using 450mm square textured paving slabs, plus a 3.6m long by about 760mm high wall, in pitched face walling blocks. Use the list to calculate your own requirements:
    • As a guide to quantities you require: 5 x 450 x 450mm paving slabs per square metre. 47 x 300 x 100 x 65mm walling blocks per square metre including mortar thickness.
    • One bag of sand and cement will be sufficient to lay about 30, 300 x 100 x 65mm walling blocks. You will require two bags of cement and 13 bags of sharp sand for every 5 square metres of paving.
    • Note: Always add 5-10% to quantities to allow for any breakage.
  2. Add mortar plasticizer (240-669) to mortar mixes for wall construction. This will improve adhesion, strength and workability. There are three stages:
    • Constructing a wall
    • Preparing the ground for a patio
    • Laying paving.

Constructing a Wall

  1. Unless you are building onto existing concrete or firm paving stones, you must provide adequate foundations for the wall. The concrete part of these foundations should be 300mm/11.8 inches wide and 75mm/2.95 inches thick. The blocks will eventually be laid in the centre of the concrete surface.
  2. Dig a trench. At least 100mm/3.93 inches of well firmed hardcore will be needed under the concrete so dig out a trench 180-200mm/7-7.8 inches deep where the wall is to be.
    • Use pegs and string to mark out the trench. Drive 300mm/11.8 inch long wooden pegs into the centre of the trench at 1200mm/47.2 inch to 1800mm/70.8 inch intervals so that they project from the base up to a point about 25mm/0.9 inches below ground level.
    • Use a spirit level and straight edge to ensure the tops of the pegs are level. They will serve as a guide when the concrete is laid, indicating the surface level.
    • Infill the trench with well compacted hardcore then concrete up to peg level. Leave the concrete to set.
    • Note: Cover with polythene sheeting to keep any rain off, and also to prevent it drying out too quickly in hot weather. Stretch a string line along the set concrete where the front edge of the wall is to finish. This will ensure that the first course is laid straight. The blocks are always laid in the centre of the concrete. Starting at one end of the wall spread mortar to a depth of about 12mm/0.47 inches behind the string line. The mortar should be workable but not sloppy. Lay the first end or corner block in place and tap down gently, compressing the mortar to about 9mm/0.35 inches. Check that it is level.
  3. Continue laying the first course with 9mm/0.35 inches mortar joints between each block. Take care not to allow mortar to get on the faces of the blocks where it could cause staining.
    • Note: On a straight wall with no return corners start the second course with a half block.
  4. To cut a block, chip a groove all round the block with a bolster chisel and club hammer along the intended cutting line. Lay the scored block on a sand bed, place the chisel in the groove then strike firmly with the club hammer to split the block. Alternatively, use a hired splitter or angle grinder (especially if you have many cuts to make).
  5. On a wall with a corner (return), start the second course with one block laid at 90° to the first course. Continue building course by course constantly checking that the blocks are level and in line both vertically and horizontally keeping the mortar joints to an even 9mm/0.35 inches thickness.
    • NOTE: Remove excess mortar immediately so that it does not stain the face of the blocks. When the mortar starts to set, either smooth it flush with the blocks using the rounded end of a piece of wood or rake, or back behind the block face to a depth of about 6mm/0.23 inches using a trowel. This is a job that can generally be left for a while, depending on temperature, after the mortar has been laid. Cap the finished wall with coping stones laid on a mortar bed.
    • The soil under the paving is retained by concrete blocks laid on hardcore and concrete footings. The footings for the two walls are separate to allow drainage through to the ground

Prepare the Ground for a Patio

How you prepare the ground for paving slabs depends entirely upon site conditions, the thickness of the slab and what you are planning to do.

  1. Note that some types of slab - especially the thinner and more fragile ones - must only be laid on a solid bed of mortar 25mm thick with mortar filled joints of 8 - 10mm/0.31 - 0.39 inches (using the 'dob & dab' or other method, could cause some to break in use).
  2. If your slabs are suitable (strong enough), the ground is firm, even when wet (for example as on chalk) and you only intend to lay slabs, you need do no more than remove any turf and a little topsoil. You only need to dig out enough to ensure that the area is deep enough to cope with 38-50mm/1.4-1.9 inches of sand, plus the slab thickness, leaving the top of the slabs just below turf level. You can then mow over the edge of the slabs.
  3. In a situation where the subsoil is less stable, such as with clay or peat, you need to dig much deeper in order to put in a stabilizing 100mm/3.93 inch thick layer of very well compacted hardcore before laying the sand bed. In both of these situations the sand should be thoroughly mixed with cement - 1 part cement to 9 parts sand - and dampened with water creating a 'semi-dry' mix. The cement/sand is only laid just prior to the slabs going down.
    • In the case of thinner slabs, this should always be at least 100mm/3.93 inches of well-compacted hardcore, then lay the slab onto 25mm of mortar.
    • In reality, few areas are level enough for immediate paving, some areas will need to be excavated, while others built up to create the level.
    • Never re-use clay or peat soils to make up ground (as they will settle). Always make up with well compacted hardcore.
  4. Prepare in advance. Time spent in good preparation is time well spent. If you don't take care to prepare a firm base, you cannot expect your paving slabs to remain level or whole. Poor preparation will lead to slabs sinking and/or breaking, so that they have to be re-laid or replaced after a year or so.

Laying Paving

Screeded Sand

  1. After preparing the base the paving can be laid onto the semi dry cement / sand mix mentioned previously. This should be 38-50mm/1.4-1.9 inches thick. As with the tiling of walls, always ensure that the first row (of slabs) is laid in a perfectly straight line, which may well be alongside the house wall or a wall, which you have built around the patio perimeter.

Solid Bed Method

  1. Depending on the type of ground, as shown previously, dig out enough to ensure that the area is deep enough to cope with the desired thickness of hardcore (it's always better to have too much than too little), 25mm/0.98 inches of mortar plus the slab thickness, leaving the top of the slabs just below turf level.
  2. Before laying any slabs, lay and level a 25mm/0.98 inch layer of mortar onto the compacted hardcore (but only as much as can be laid in one go) remembering the mortar will set faster in warm weather. Working away from walls etc. and leaving a gap of between 8-10mm/0.31 - 0.39 inches for mortar joints, carefully lay the slabs.
    • All thin or fragile slabs must be laid on a full bed of mortar, 25mm/0.98 inches thick.
    • Remember: If slabs are to be butted up against the house wall, the top surface of the slabs must be at least 150mm/5.9 inches below d.p.c. level and the slabs must slope away from the wall.
  3. To ensure that an even slope is maintained, use 6mm/0.23 inch thick pieces of ply or some similar material. Place the ply on the edge of the slab furthest from the house wall.
    • Place the spirit level on the ply and on the opposite edge of the slab. When the bubble in the level is central, you have the correct slope.
    • Leave 9mm/0.35 inch gaps between slabs. It will help if you prepare a good supply of spacers for this purpose, perhaps cutting up pieces of plywood of the correct thickness.
  4. Ensure that all the slabs are well bedded down onto the cement/sand and do not pivot on an uneven base. When necessary add or remove the bedding mix to achieve a firm and stable base. There can be some colour/shade variation between packs of slabs. Intermix slabs from different packs.
  5. If slabs need to be cut by hand, mark a pencil line all round. Lay the slab on a bed of sand and chip out a groove along the line, using a club hammer and bolster chisel. Chop out to a depth of about 3mm all round the slab. Tap the waste part of the slab with the club hammer handle. The slab should break apart along the line if the cut groove is deep enough. As mentioned previously, if a lot of cutting has to be done, it is far better to hire a block splitter (if you can't get one, use a 230mm/9" angle grinder).
  6. Do not walk on the set slabs for at least 24 hours. After this time you can remove the spacers. Infill the gaps with a mortar mix, taking care to keep the mix off the face of the slabs. This can be a tedious job, but failure to do it will lead to the growth of weeds between the slabs and will allow them to move sideways, out of position.
    • If time is not on your side, or you are not keen on filling each gap individually, use patio grout to fill paving gaps of over 5mm wide and 25mm deep.
    • Paving slabs are made from materials that contain natural salts. When wet these salts may appear on the surface of the slabs as discolouration or crystals - known as 'efflorescence'. This is perfectly normal. Never try to clean the surface of the slabs using yet more water. This will simply lead to the appearance of more crystals. Allow the slabs to dry then brush the surface firmly with a completely dry, stiff yard broom. Over a period of time after wetting, drying and brushing, the salts will cease to appear.

Building Garden Steps

  1. On sloping sites, or where patios have been built on two or more levels, you may well need to construct steps. This is a reasonably straightforward task involving little more than setting walling blocks onto concrete footings at the bottom end if at ground level and then putting paving slabs onto the walling following normal paving laying procedures. The paving slabs create the treads, and the walling blocks the risers.
  2. If there is to be more than one change in level, i.e., two or three steps up, the second riser blocks will be bedded onto the paving slab surface at the rear. The slabs therefore must be secure and laid on hardcore topped with a cement/sand mix. In this case, the mix should be about 1 part cement to 6 parts sand and laid only slightly moistened.

Concrete Block Paving

  1. Ensure that you have planning permission. Note that in the UK, from October 2008, the permitted development rights that allow householders to pave over their front garden for hard standing without planning permission have changed. Planning permission is now required to lay traditional impermeable driveways that allow uncontrolled runoff of rainwater from front gardens onto roads. Other jurisdictions will likely have relevant rules in relation to the area you're in; check first.
  2. Choose one of three options when installing replacement or new driveways in the front garden area. The right option for you will depend on local ground conditions and Local Authority guidelines. It is recommended that your contact your Local Authority Planning Department and seek advice before commencing work:
    • Use a traditional impermeable driveway solution and gain planning permission from your local authority.
    • Use a traditional impermeable driveway solution, with provision to ensure that surface water is directed to a soak away area within your property boundary.
    • Use a permeable solution such as for products that do not require planning permission.

Impermeable Driveways

  1. Construct an attractive, long lasting, and hard wearing driveway using Stamford paving blocks measuring 100 x 200 x 50mm/3.9 x 7.8 x 1.9 inches. These blocks can be handled and laid more easily than most other driveway surfacing materials and can withstand the pressures exerted by the weight of a car when set on the correct base. They are equally suitable for making paths around the house and garden, and can even be used for a patio.
  2. Choose patterns according to use. Use a herringbone pattern for vehicular access. For pedestrian access or patios, either pattern is suitable. Coverage is about 50 blocks per square metre. Sharp sand is used for the bedding of the blocks and Patio and Block Paving Sand as the material for the infilling between blocks which have in-built spacers. The tools you will require are a shovel and rake, a plate vibrator (hired), a stone splitter (also hired), and a bolster chisel and club hammer.
  3. Make a striking off board. This is simply a piece of timber about 100mm/3.9 inches wide, and long enough to span the width of the intended drive or path. With other timber strips added at each end it is used to check the level of any hardcore used and then, with the end strips positioned differently, to level off the bedding sand. The timber strips are intended to rest on the top edges of a retaining edge structure whilst levelling is carried out. Any driveway or path needs to be built within a retaining frame to prevent the bedding sand or the blocks being displaced. Our path edgings set in a concrete bed are ideal for the purpose being set.

Preparing the Ground

  1. If constructing a driveway, set the blocks on sand and hardcore so you will need to dig out ground to a depth of about 200mm/7.8 inches. Set the retaining edging stones in concrete so that the tops are at your intended finished drive level.
  2. When the concrete has set, infill with hardcore and compact to a depth of about 100mm/3.9 inches using your striking-off board to check this. Note the position of the timber strips. A plate vibrator may be used to compact the hardcore, but be careful not to disturb the edging stones.

Laying Blocks

  1. Starting at one end of the drive, lay sand across the full width but only extend about 3 metres/9.8 feet along the drive, or over an area you can reasonably expect to complete in a working period.
    • Spread the sand to a thickness of 65mm/2.5 inches without walking on it or otherwise compacting.
    • Use the striking-off board, with the timbers set to achieve the level. Still without walking on the sand start positioning the blocks in the design of your choice on the sand up against the starting point. The in-built spacers, on the blocks, will keep them the correct distance apart.
    • If working to a herringbone pattern, don't worry about cutting blocks to fit edges yet. There can be some colour/shade variation between packs of blocks or slabs. Therefore, you should intermix blocks (or slabs) from different packs.
  2. Once you have laid the blocks over the first 1.5 metres/4.9 feet of the drive - not the complete sanded area - use the plate vibrator to bed them down into the sand. Two or three passes with the vibrator should bed them to the level of the retaining wall. Do not vibrate within one metre of the end of the sand bed.
    • Continue spreading sand, laying blocks, and vibrating down in easy stages.
    • Fit cut edge blocks as necessary. Cut them with a splitter, if you have hired one, or with a bolster chisel and club hammer as for normal paving slabs, as previously described in this leaflet.
    • Patio/Block Paving Sand must then be spread over the surface and initially brushed backwards and forwards until the spaces between the blocks are completely full.
    • Leaving some sand on the surface, make a couple of passes with the vibrator to compress more sand into the gaps.
    • Finally, remove excess sand and the drive is ready for use.

Permeable Driveways

  1. Consider pavers that don't require planning permission. Pavers that are open and allow grass growth are ideal for occasional extra parking offering a versatile, sustainable alternative to solid paving. This is an open grid pattern allows grass to grow through for a 'lawn look' that can be mowed and maintained to disguise the concrete grid. These pavers should be 150mm MOT Type 1, hardcore, a bedding regulating layer of sharp sand or pea shingle 25mm plus 20% humus to support root development.

Maintenance and Repair

Broken or Sunken Blocks

  1. Realize the problems that can occur. Paving blocks can break or sink. Replacing or raising them can be a problem, as they are usually tightly packed together. Depending how tightly packed they are, one of two methods for their removal can be used (always wear eye protection and gloves):
  2. Drill a hole in the centre of the block, or largest piece, using a hammer drill and masonry bit. Insert a raw plug and screwed eye bolt of a suitable size, thread a piece of strong cord through the eye and carefully pull upward (this method only works if the block is not too tight).
    • Note: If there are several sunken blocks to be raised or replaced, start at the outer edge of the depression, these will be the least tightly packed and the easiest to remove.
  3. If the above method does not work, or the block is too tight, use a large masonry bit, and drill as many holes as possible across the block. Using a sharp cold chisel and club hammer, chip out the block by cutting across the drilled holes. Repeat if necessary until the block is removed. Once a block (or piece) is out, the adjacent blocks should be easily removed.
    • Replacing one block - add a little sharp sand, levelling with the edge of a short piece of wood. Carefully drop the new block into place. Protecting the surface with another piece of wood; tamp down until level with the other blocks.
    • Replacing several blocks is similar to one, but make sure each one is completely level and firmly butted against its neighbour, making sure there aren't any gaps, or the last one won't fit and you'll have to start again. Fit the last one end up so it can be easily removed (this will stop the space closing up). When all are in place, use a long straight edge across the tops to re-check they are level, tamp down any that are proud. Add sand under any that are low. Fit the last block correctly (if this needs assistance, use a piece of wood over the block and gently tap in) and check for level.

Raised Blocks or Slabs

  1. Growing trees roots are usually the cause of raised block pavers and slabs. If this is the case, before attempting a repair, contact your local council/municipality (in the event of very obvious or serious damage, your insurance company), for advice about damage caused by trees. Never remove large roots without professional advice, you could cause all sorts of problems!

Broken or Sunken Paving Slabs

  1. Remove any mortar (if used) from around the slab by using a narrow bladed masonry chisel (if the mortar is in poor condition, an old strong screwdriver may do). Take care not to damage the edge of the neighbouring slabs. For a broken slab, chisel a hole into the broken part of the slab, then carefully lever out the pieces until all are removed.
  2. Be aware that sunken whole slabs are a little more difficult. Assuming there is a gap between the slab and the neighbouring slabs, insert a wide chisel, spade or suitable lever.
    • Place a piece of wood over the adjacent slab and lever onto that.
    • Have two or three pieces of wood ready, strong and thick enough to support and raise the slab sufficiently for you to get your fingers underneath.
    • Carefully lift out the slab (if it's heavy, get some help). Place onto more pieces of wood (you'll need to get your fingers underneath to put it back).

Replacing

  1. Remove any old mortar from the hole and the edges. Add sharp sand, tamp down and level. If using mortar, allow about 10mm room on top of the sand for the mortar.
  2. Add five blobs one to each corner and one to the centre (the slab will need to be raised just enough above the others to allow tamping down and levelling), apply a thin strip of mortar around the edges of the hole. The difficult bit is getting the slab into the hole without ruining the sand and mortar base.
  3. Carefully place one end of the slab into position, making sure the surrounding gaps are equal, then lower. If you need to centre the slab, use a wide chisel or a spade and gently lever against (without damaging) the sound neighbouring slabs.
    • Another method is to lift the slab on two pieces of suitable cord (or flat plastic banding) and gently lower into the hole (if it's heavy use two or more people). Use the handle of a club hammer to tamp the slab into position, making sure it's level by using a long spirit level.
  4. Cut the cord or banding level with the slab and push down below the surface (plastic banding is sharp so be careful). Add mortar into the joints and smooth level with the other slabs. Quickly remove the excess or it will stain the slab surface and look unsightly.

Tips

  • This article is intended as a guide only. Many unique issues will need to be tailored to suit the space and style of your own patio. Whenever in doubt, seek professional advice.

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Sources and Citations

  1. ↑ https://www.google.com/ig/directory?type=gadgets&url=www.google.com/ig/modules/unitconverter.xml

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