Fix a Washer That Will Not Drain Its Water Before Going Into Spin Cycle
Washers that fail to drain usually have a clog somewhere in the system, or an issue detecting a closed lid. Repairing this problem is usually easy, but it can take some effort and mess to access the parts you need. If you have trouble following these instructions at any point, refer to the instruction manual that came with your washer.
Contents
Steps
Fixing the Lid Switch
- Start here for a top-loaded washer. This method only applies to top-loaded washers. If you use a front-loaded washer, skip down to the section on unclogging the pump.
- Depress the lid switch with a pen. Open the lid of your washer, on the top of your machine. A small gap with a switch inside should be located where the edge of the lid hits the washer. Press this switch down with a plastic pen, toothbrush handle, or similar object. This tells the washer that the lid is closed, which should start an attempt to drain the machine.
- Approach the problem
- If there is no sign that the machine is trying to drain, this switch is probably broken. Order a replacement part from the manufacturer.
- If the machine drains successfully, the switch works but may be bent out of shape. Try to bend this gently, until closing the lid depresses the switch. Replace this part if necessary.
- If the machine makes noise but fails to drain, try unclogging the pump, as described below.
Unclogging the Pump
- Turn off the power to the washing machine. Unplug the machine so you can handle it safely. Never work on the interior of a machine while it still has power, or you could be electrocuted or injured by moving parts.
- Place a large bucket next to the machine. Choose a bucket you can easily lift when filled with water.
- Shut off the water supply (optional). An unpowered machine should not allow more water to enter the system. If you want to be extra safe, find the supply hoses leading from the back of the machine, and disconnect them where they meet the plumbing. The supply hose or hoses are smooth, not rippled. Disconnect them by turning each valve so it runs across the pipe, instead of along it.
- A cold-only supply is grey or blue. If there is a second supply hose for hot water, it is usually red. Both hoses are smooth.
- Detach the drain hose from the water supply (optional). The drain hose is grey and rippled, similar to a vacuum cleaner hose. Detach it on the plumbing end by removing the twist tie, or by unscrewing the hose clamp if present. Ease off the hose, which may be firmly attached. Do not lower the hose or let it fall to the ground.
- If there's a kink in the hose, this could be the problem. Straighten the hose, restore water and power, and run a spin cycle to see if the machine drains. If not, shut off water and power again and continue to the next step.
- Let the hose drain into the bucket. Lots of waste water will flow out quite quickly. When the bucket is mostly full, lift the hose back up and reattach it to its connection again while you empty the bucket. Repeat until no more water leaves the hose.
- If you empty the bucket into the same sink that feeds your machine, pour slowly. There's a chance that some water will flow through the open connection to the hoses.
- When the water flow slows, tilt the bucket forward so you can bring the hose closer to the ground
- If no water comes out, there is probably a blockage in the hose. Clearing this or replacing the hose may fix your problem.
- Tuck towels against the machine. This next part usually gets messy. Lay a few dirty towels on the floor, against the front of the machine. Tuck them under the machine if possible.
- On some machines, a thin baking tray can fit under the gap between the floor and the base of the machine. Use this as well as the towels if possible.
- Remove the pump maintenance port. Some machines have a blank plastic cover over this area, while others have a small "door." On a front-loaded machine, either type is usually located on the front of the machine, near the base. Look up instructions for your model, or search for and disconnect it on your own:
- Most plastic covers are attached by plastic tabs. These break easily, so work slowly and methodically. Tug repeatedly until each tab unlatches, without using excessive force.
- Square, door-like ports are sometimes attached by tabs as well, but some have a simple handle.
- Round plugs often have a retaining screw, which you'll need to remove and set aside. Slowly twist the plug anticlockwise (this may require force). If water seeps out, wait until it's all come out before you remove the plug completely. If necessary, tighten the plug again while you replace the soaked towels.
- Clean out the pump. Once the port is removed, you should see the pump on the other side. Use a crochet needle, a wire with the end bent back, or a similar small item to reach into the pump. Clean out all the lint and any trapped objects you find. Be thorough, as there may be more than one object.
- If you did not find any items, turn on your phone light or torch. Shine it into the pump interior, at the pump paddles. Use a long, thin spoon or other object to gently turn the paddles. If the paddles turn, the pump is probably not clogged.
- Reattach all parts. Follow the above instructions in reverse to reattach the port panel, retaining screw (if present), and hose. Restore the water supply and power.
- Test the machine. Open the machine door and fill the tumbler with enough water that you can see it above the holes at the bottom. Close the door and put on a spin cycle only. If the water drains, congratulations, you've solved the problem. If it does not, there may be an electrical fault to the pump. This requires a qualified washing machine technician to repair.
Clearing Backed-Up Plumbing
- Use this method if your plumbing overflows. If waste water rises into the sink, or wherever your washer is attached, follow these instructions. Because the water is connected to an open channel in your washer, you will need to block this before you plunge.
- Shut off the water supply to the washer (optional). This is not usually necessary, as your washing machine should automatically block water from entering. If you want to be extra safe, follow the smooth supply hoses at the back of your washing machine until they reach the plumbing. If valves are present, turn them so they lie across the pipe, blocking water to the hose. If there are no valves, remove the hoses, then plug the hole with a wet, tightly rolled cloth.
- Block overflow holes. If the waste water is coming out of a sink, look for overflow holes near the top of the sink. Plug these. You should be able to fill the sink at least ¼ of the way full, to act as a "driving medium" pushing the blockage down.
- Plunge the sink. When plunging, alternate between fast, repetitive movement (as though thumping a drum), and a steadier pace (as though using a bike tire). The first motion breaks apart the bond between clumped debris. The second drives the chunk of matter away. Continue plunging until the water drains.
Tips
- Some top-loaded washers have a pump driven by a belt and motor. If you hear a loud spinning noise, this belt may have broken off. Access the pump as described in the section on unclogging the pump, then replace the belt. Do not test the machine if you know the belt is the problem, as the motor may destroy itself if there is no functional belt attached.
- A wet vacuum may be useful to clean up the inevitable water leakage.
- Check all clothing for coins, paper clips, string, and other small objects before putting them in the laundry. Even if all the pockets are empties, kids will sometimes toss objects into the washer for fun.
Warnings
- Be prepared for water spilling on the floor.
- Unplug the washing machine while you are working on it to prevent injury from electrocution or moving parts.
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