Grow Apricots
Having your own apricot tree (Prunus armeniaca) in the garden is a pure delight. Being able to go down and pick ripe, really fresh apricots is a sensation that no bought apricot can ever replicate. The sooner you plant your apricot tree, the sooner you'll get to having really delicious apricots.
Steps
- Ensure that you have the right environment to grow apricots. It should be a cultivar suited to your local climate. Apricot trees tend to prefer cooler climates but can be grown as far as sub-tropical climates provided it doesn't get too warm during the winter (this causes early fruiting).
- Decide whether to purchase a tree sapling that is already well underway (usually grafted to a rootstock) or to grow from seed. Growing from seed requires a lot of patience and you'll need to stratify the seed to get it to germinate.
- Consider the size of the tree. Dwarf trees are best for small garden spaces.
- If buying a bare-root tree, get one that is about 2-3 years old.
- Select a suitable spot. The apricot tree needs plenty of warmth during the summer season. The tree needs to be sheltered from frost and wind. This protects the fruit as well as the insects that need to pollinate the blossoms.
- An apricot tree is very responsive to being grown fan-trained against a wall. Choose a wall that gets the most sun if you're in a cooler region.
- Avoid anywhere that has had the following crops growing: eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, raspberries and strawberries. This is because these crops can be a source of verticillium Prevent Clematis Wilt.
- Apricots can be grown in containers successfully. Such a tree can be planted any time except when the weather is extremely hot.
- Prepare the soil. The soil should be well-draining but moisture retentive and rich and loamy. Apricots prefer a slightly alkaline soil in the pH range of 6.5-8.0. Ensure that the area is well weeded. Dig in well-rotted manure or compost.
- Apricot trees don't do well in light, sandy soils.
- Plant the apricot tree in winter or early spring. The only exception to this is a mild climate, when autumn (fall) planting is acceptable. Water well once planted and add a light layer of mulch around the tree. Don't let the mulch touch the bark though.
- If fan-training the apricot, plant it {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} (6") away from the wall or fence.
- Water weekly and deeply. Apricots can suffer from Prepare Trees to Avoid Root Rot, so don't over-water them; a deep soaking once a week is best. Ensure that there is good drainage in the soil.
- Buy Fertilizer. Fertilizer (low-nitrogen, complete fertilizer) can be applied in later winter, and then once again during the fruiting period to help it cope with the added requirements of producing fruit.
- Expect fruit within 3-4 years of planting. Be aware that apricot blossom is very susceptible to frost damage and may need to be protected.
- Thin the fruit. It is a good idea to thin the fruit at regular intervals. Begin when they are the size of cherries through to almost full size. Focus on removing fruits that don't look of good quality, are misshapen, or unhealthy in appearance. If a cluster has more than three to four Make Apricot Surprise Cupcakes, thin these to allow the apricots on the cluster to reach full maturity.
- Harvest. Apricots are usually ready for harvesting from midsummer through to early autumn. This will be dependent on the variety. They will feel slightly soft. Be gently with picking so as not to break the skin of the fruit.
- The yield depends on the variety of tree, its size and age.
- Prune. The apricot tree has its best quality and most abundant cropping on short spurs on two to three year old wood. Therefore, don't prune extensively or you will get a poor crop. For the first few years, only prune very lightly, if at all. Cut older shoots out every four to six years to make way for new shoots; choose those no longer fruiting.
- If you are fan-training the apricot tree, you'll need to prune accordingly. Do this in early spring, before the growth begins.
- For an apricot bush, prune the leaders back in early spring. Over the years, as the central branches become unproductive, cut back one-third of the main branches after harvesting the apricots. This will encourage replacement branches with vigorous growth. Paint the cuts with plant wound paint or rubbing alcohol to prevent infection.
Tips
- Sometimes hand pollination is needed if few insects are about.
- A new tree should not bear a heavy crop of fruit; severely thin the fruit to prevent this.
- Another tree you might like to try is an aprium; this is a cross between an apricot and a plum.
- The fan shape is great for small spaces but be aware that it also limits the amount of fruit produced.
Warnings
- Too much pruning can cause bacterial canker and fungal disease silver leaf.
- Apricot trees are susceptible to brown rot during warm, humid weather when blooming and in the three weeks before harvest.
- If a late frost is forecast, protect the blossoms by throwing a lightweight sheet over the tree.
Things You'll Need
- Digging tools
- Compost/mulch
- Fertilizer
- Apricot bare-root tree or seeds
- Watering facility
Related Articles
Sources and Citations
- Simon and Schuster's Step-by-Step Encyclopedia of Practical Gardening, Fruit, p. 71, (1980), ISBN 0-671-24834-0 – research source
- Hazel White and Janet H Sanchez, The Edible Garden, pp. 108-109, (2005), ISBN 0-376-03170-0 – research source
