Install a Shower Faucet
Whether you are remodeling your existing bathroom, building a new one or merely replacing shower fixtures, take the time to explore the many options available today. The variety of shower faucets alone is seemingly unlimited. With the exception of a few incredibly complicated set-ups, even a relative novice can replace shower faucets in 1 afternoon using ordinary toolbox tools.
Contents
Steps
Preparing for the Job
- Visit a bathroom showroom to pick out your new faucet. If you are merely replacing an existing faucet, choose the same style of faucet already in place to make installation easiest. If you know what you need, you can purchase replacement parts before you start the project. If not, then you should wait until you have removed the old parts and take them with you to the hardware store so you can match the new components exactly. Many shower components come pre-packaged as a set so you are sure to have everything you need, including new faucet handles. There are 3 styles of shower faucets available:
- Single-handled shower faucets have a tee connection to both hot and cold water supplies and control water temperature and water flow with just 1 handle.
- Double-handled shower faucets have 1 control for hot water and 1 control for cold water.
- 3-handled shower faucets work the same as the double handled faucets but have an additional handle for the bathtub. In this application, the third handle controls the strength of the water flow and determines whether the water goes to the tub or the shower.
- Assemble the other necessary tools and equipment. Aside from the replacement parts or the new faucet, the following tools and materials are needed to complete this project:
- Adjustable pliers
- A large adjustable wrench or pipe wrench
- Teflon tape (often called plumber’s tape)
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat head)
- A pan or container to catch any water remaining in pipes
- Towels or rags for wiping up small puddles and drips
- A box or container for discarded components
- Safety goggles and gloves
- Turn off your main water supply. Locate the shut-off valve for the appropriate bathroom and turn the water off. Most homes have shut-offs in place for individual bathrooms as well as one for the kitchen so you should not need to shut off the water supply for the whole house.
- If you are on a city water system, the shut-off valve should be located at the water meter. If your home is on a private well, you will need to find your pressure tank. Newer tanks are usually blue in color while older tanks may be any color.
- Typically, the shut-off valve itself is located on the main outlet pipe near the tank. To close this valve at either source, turn it clockwise until closed. This will immediately stop water flow to the house. Once you have shut off the water supply, open the shower faucet valves to release remaining water from the pipes and ensure that the water is indeed off.
- Cover the tub and/or the shower floor with a canvas drop cloth. If you're going to be cutting through the tiles or wall, it's important to drop some cloth to protect the bathtub. Make sure the shower area is clean and dry, then use a painter’s drop cloth or other protective covering on the shower floor and tub surface to protect it from scratches and chips.
Removing the Old Components
- Remove the handles. Use a flat-headed screwdriver to pry up the small caps on each of the handles. These caps are usually marked with a “C” or “H”. Under the cap will be a screw to release the handles.
- Remove the retaining screws then remove the handles by pulling them off the valve stems. If the screws are rusted, it may take a little extra effort to loosen the screws. If necessary, use penetrating oil to help break through the rust.
- Remove the spout. To remove the old spout, twist counterclockwise gently and pull towards you at the same time. There may be a small screw that will require removal before you can take it off. You may find that pliers or a pipe wrench are helpful when removing old fixtures. Use what tools work best for you.
- On some faucets, the diverter handle will have an arrow on it. Use a flat head screwdriver or a butter knife or something similar to pry the cap from the handle to reveal the retaining screw. Before removing the retaining screw, you'll need to open the valve completely by turning the handle counterclockwise. This keeps the valve from turning while removing the screw.
- Remove the flange. On most two-handle and three-handle faucets, there are chrome flanges about three inches long. Firmly grasp the flange and remove it by turning it counterclockwise. There is a white nylon threaded sleeve that may not come off as you remove the flange. If this happens, simply grasp the sleeve with your hand or a pair of pliers and turn it counterclockwise to remove it.
- Single-handled faucets have a large round plate that is attached either with caulking or with screws. After removing the handle, remove the plate by removing the screws or by cutting the caulking with a utility knife. Then pull the plate from the wall.
- Remove the valve assemblies. These should have a hex-shaped base near the wall and you can use an adjustable wrench or adjustable pliers to remove them. Turn them counterclockwise until they come loose. Once removed, use a damp cloth or an old toothbrush to remove debris from the threads of the water inlet pipes.
- Mark where the new heads will go and make cuts if necessary. If you're installing a brand new faucet, you need to measure and mark the spots where you will be installing shower faucets and a shower head. Shower faucets are typically installed at a height of 45 to 48 inches (114.3 to 121.9 cm) and shower head height 72 to 78 inches (1.83 to 1.98 m).
- After making your measurements, drill holes using tile drill-bits of the appropriate size, depending on the size of your shower components, and remove enough of the wall to access the pipe for proper installation.
- After making cuts, clean the shower walls with bleach water or white vinegar water. Do not mix bleach and vinegar, as it can release a noxious gas. Do not allow water to drip behind the wall. If it does, dry thoroughly before installing the new fixtures.
Installing New Valves
- Open and check the valve assemblies before installation. Take all of the new valve assemblies and open them fully before installing them. Do this by turning the stems counterclockwise. Each valve needs to be opened when it's installed to allow it to seat fully on the pipe components. Be sure to identify the diverter valve and set it aside to install it last.
- The process of installing a new faucet will be essential the reverse process of your disassembly. If you purchased an identical or similar kit to the version you removed, it should be quite easy.
- Tape the new valves. Take the roll of plumber’s tape and peel the end back a couple of inches. With the new valve in one hand, hold the threaded base pointing to your other hand. Place the loose end of the plumber’s tape over the threads and secure it with your thumb, then wrap tightly around the threads clockwise for three complete wraps. Pull tightly against the threads until the tape breaks. Roll the loose end over the taped threads. Done correctly, the tape will contour to the threads.
- Repeat this process for all the new valve components. Taping the valves allows a tighter seal to be creating, ensuring a solid faucet that won't leak.
- Install the new valve. Place the new valve into the pipe and turn clockwise with your fingers about three or four complete turns. There should be some resistance after that because of the plumber’s tape.
- If the valve does not seat in the threaded pipe within the first turn or two, start again. Do not force an improperly seated valve. It will strip the threads and cause a serious leak. Repeat this step for all valves.
- Completely tighten the valves with adjustable pliers or an adjustable wrench. Do not over-tighten or you risk damaging the valve or the water pipes
- Install the sleeve. Take the threaded white nylon sleeve, slip it over each valve stem, and twist it into threaded interior of the valve base. Do not use pliers or a pipe wrench, as this will damage the threads. Wrap a cloth rag around the sleeve and grip tightly with your hand and twist it into place.
- Install the flange. Take the chrome flange and twist it onto the nylon sleeve until the base of the flange is snug against the shower wall. Place the new faucet handle over the notched tip of the valve stem. Hold the handle firmly and insert and tighten the retaining screw. Do not over tighten to avoid stripping the threads. Turn the handle clockwise to close the valve and place the handle in the shut-off position. Repeat these steps for each of the valves.
- Install the retaining screw cover on each handle. Insert the covers so “H” is on the left side, “C” is on the right side, and the arrow on the diverter cap is pointing down.
- Use bathtub caulk to seal any gaps where hardware meets the shower wall. Caulk the fixtures where they touch the walls using a silicon caulk, and allow to dry. In general, you shouldn't use a freshly caulked shower for at least 24 hours.
- Turn water supply back on and check for leaks. Turn on your water supply and check that everything works properly. Do not be surprised by some initial sputtering of the water when you test your shower faucets. The water pressure is simply forcing air out of the line. The sputtering should stop within a few seconds.
Tips
- People with mobility issues such as arthritis would probably find a faucet with lever type handles easier to use than round handles that are difficult to grasp, especially if your hands are wet.
- You can find wonderful old shower fixtures at plumbing salvage yards, often for much less than you would pay for new ones.
Warnings
- Most cities require an inspection of the work on new plumbing installations. Some even require a certified plumber to do work such as installing pipes and running water lines, so check with them first.
- If the water has been shut off for 6 hours or more, let the water run for several minutes before using it for cooking or drinking.
Things You'll Need
- Drop cloth
- Pliers
- Wrench
- Screwdriver
- Hole saw if needed
- Acrylic and/or silicon caulk
- Faucet kit
