Make Sure Your Guinea Pig Is Happy

Do you have a guinea pig who seems bored, unhappy, or depressed? Guinea pigs can express depression-like symptoms, including inactivity and loss of appetite, if they are not given sufficient care and stimulation. It's important to keep life interesting and exciting for your guinea pig!

Steps

Providing Basic Comforts

  1. Make sure your guinea pig is healthy. Lethargy and inactivity can be a sign of illness, as can the refusal to eat or drink. It's important to confirm that your guinea pig is simply bored and mildly depressed - which can be treated with increased stimulation and socialization - and not seriously ill.[1]
    • Lethargy for example often accompanies misaligned teeth, infection, and obesity, all of which are dangerous for guinea pigs.[2]
    • Assess whether your guinea pig is suffering from other signs of illness, such as loss of appetite, weight loss or gain, rough hair, and loss of elasticity in the skin. If you notice any of these symptoms, you should consult a veterinarian who has experience with guinea pigs. If you don't notice these other signs, then consider the following steps to make life happier and more exciting for your guinea pig.
  2. Ensure that your guinea pig's cage is large enough. The Humane Society of the United States has noted that most commercial cages available for guinea pigs are too small. Guinea pigs are animals that love to move around. The happiest guinea pigs have ample space in their cages to run, exercise, and play. Guinea pigs need a minimum of eight square feet of floor space in their cages, but more space is even better. If you have one guinea pig, aim for a cage about 30" x 36"; if you have two guinea pigs, try to get a cage that is 30" x 50". [3]
    • As a general tip, there should always be room in any cage for exercise space, a food bowl, a tunnel or box for your pig to hide in or under and a place for him go to the bathroom.
  3. Make sure the cage is in an ideal location. Guinea pigs like to be near other beings, so consider putting the cage in a living room or family room, where your guinea pig can be part of the family and can be seen and heard. Do keep in mind, however, that guinea pigs have sensitive ears and that they do not like loud noises. Keep the cage away from stereos, televisions and anything else that emits loud sounds.[3]
    • In addition, place the cage in an area that is neither too warm nor too cool. Guinea pigs don't like extreme temperatures; moreover, extreme cold or heat can cause the animals to become ill. Aim for an area that is about 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit and away from any heat sources or drafty spaces.
  4. Organize the cage appropriately. Try to keep food dishes, water bottles, houses, and toys away from the walls of the cage so that your guinea pig has lots of space to run and play. Place all cage accessories in the centre of the cage to create a perimeter around the cage that is free of obstructions for your pig to run around.[4]
    • Always change up toys, houses and their locations in the cage in order to keep them interesting for your guinea pig.[4]
  5. Feed your guinea pig well. To make sure your guinea pig has a well-balanced and nutritious diet, provide him with ample hay. Fresh hay provides the fiber the guinea pig's digestive tract needs and grinds the teeth down to keep them in good shape. Guinea pigs can run and play in and also eat the hay so this is key to keeping them healthy and happy. It is important to provide an unlimited source of grass hay because food pellets don't contain enough fiber to help the digestive system fully function properly.[4][5]
    • In addition to hay, provide your guinea pig with 1/8 of a cup of food pellets, and about 1 cup of vegetables per day. Veggies are a key source of vitamin C for guinea pigs; good choices include leafy greens like kale, spinach, and romaine lettuce.[6]
    • Try to vary your pet's meal choice to make eating more exciting. Experiment to see what your pig likes. Other veggie options include bell peppers, brussel sprouts, carrots, cucumbers, peas, and tomatoes.[6]
    • Add fruit to your pigs diet. Guinea pigs love fruit! Try to choose fruits high in vitamin C, such as cantaloupe, strawberries, and kiwi. However, make sure that you are only giving fruit as a special treat not more than a few times a week because of its high sugar content.[7]
    • Make the food fun! You can cut up your guinea pig's favorite veggies and thread them together with twine, making a kabob you can hang on the side of his cage. You can also buy a little metal pole for the kabob from pet stores.[4]
    • Keep the food fresh. Checking the cage constantly and remove anything that is uneaten and will wilt or decompose. In general, avoid giving your guinea pig spoiled or wilted vegetables; don't feed them anything you yourself wouldn't eat.
  6. Make sure the bedding in the cage is soft. Guinea pigs have very delicate feet so it's important that they have soft and abundant bedding. Make sure to provide about 2-3 inches worth of bedding, so that there is sufficient padding and absorption. The ideal bedding material is hay, since it's warm and absorbent. Make sure the hay is of a high quality and soft nature. Straw-like hay can injure guinea pigs' eyes. [7]
    • Be sure to change bedding if it ever becomes wet or sodden. Spot clean every day by removing wet patches and replacing with clean straw. Damp hay can cause health problems and is also greatly disliked by the guinea pigs themselves. In general, guinea pigs prefer clean, dry bedding and will feel more comfortable in cages that provide this comfort.
    • Do not use cedar and pine shavings as bedding, even though these are widely available as bedding for small pets. These materials have phenols, which can be harmful to guinea pigs.
  7. Clean the cage regularly. In general, cages should be cleaned quickly every day (spot-cleaning) and thoroughly washed and cleaned once a week.[7]
    • At the end of every day, remove any uneaten food from the cage and droppings.
    • At least once a week, replace and/or clean the bedding in the cage and remove everything from inside the cage so you can give it a good scrub with warm water. Because guinea pigs like dry surfaces, make sure the cage is fully dry before putting the bedding back in.

Entertaining Your Guinea Pig

  1. Give your guinea pig "toys". Remember that safety should be your top concern and that many commercial toys can fall apart and leave small pieces behind that your pig could choke on. You'll need to experiment to decide which toys your guinea pig likes, as they don't always enjoy the same thing. A good rule of thumb is that the simpler the toy, the better.[4]
    • Make sure to only add large toys into the cage that cannot be swallowed by your guinea pig to ensure that there are no choking hazards.
    • Wooden blocks or dowels are good choices because guinea pigs like to and should chew on things. This is because guinea pigs' teeth never stop growing, and chew toys can help gnaw the teeth down to comfortable length. Make sure with any wooden toys you purchase that the wood is untreated and unpainted.[8]
    • A good toy to include is a tunnel (or even more than one). Guinea pigs love running through and sleeping in tunnels in their cage. You could purchase a tube or tunnel at a major pet store, but you can also make one really easily at home using an empty Quaker Oats container. Be sure to remove the plastic and metal lips from both ends and all labels.
  2. Avoid certain toys. Do not give your guinea pig exercise balls or wheels. These toys can cause crippling injuries to guinea pigs' feet, back, and toes. Stick to the toy options listed above.
  3. Create "hidey houses" for your guinea pig. Guinea pigs can be very shy and they love to hide under things and get a little privacy. Hidey houses and tunnels also make them feel safe, secure, and comforted. Again, these are things that you can either purchase at any main pet supply retailer or make inexpensively at home.[4]
    • As a general rule, a guinea pig should have at least one wooden structure in their cage, whether that be a wooden little house or a tunnel. Wooden structures give the guinea pig something to chew on, which help ground down his teeth and keep the them safe.
    • If you have more than one pig, you should have one extra house beyond the number of pigs in the cage. For instance, if you have 3 pigs, you'll want to have 4 hidey houses. Having one seemingly "neutral" house not designated for any particular guinea pig helps maintain peace in the group.[4]
    • To make a little DIY-house where your pig can hide, use an old, plain (i.e., no dyes) shoebox. Your pig will love the little house and it's totally safe for chewing. You could also use paper bags that you lay on their sides to create a kind of cave for your guinea pig. To make it extra fun, you could also stuff some hay in the bag - toy and hay all-in-one! [4]
    • You can also make towel tents for your pig to hide under. Cut up or fold old bath towels (make sure to remove any tags or loose threads) and drape over a corner of the cage. You can loop the towel through the wires of the cage or use pins or other clips to secure the towels in place. This is a great alternative for a hiding spot because you can wash and reuse the "tent" as needed.[4]
  4. Let your guinea pig out. Even if you have a large cage, and especially if you don't, give your guinea pig some floor time each day. Give him some additional exercise by letting him run around a small room or other enclosed space; this should be part of your pig's daily routine to help keep him happy and healthy.[7][4]
    • Make sure to only let your guinea pig out in rooms that have no small openings through which the guinea pig could escape or become lost. In addition, make sure to avoid areas where there is furniture or appliances that your guinea pig could get stuck in, such as in sofas, behind ovens or refrigerators, etc.[7]
    • You'll also need to keep a close eye on your pig because guinea pigs will chew on anything they can, including dangerous items like electrical wires and cords. Make sure any wires are not just unplugged but are totally inaccessible to your pig when he is let out of the cage.[4]
    • Do not let your guinea pig outside, where he could become easily lost or considered as prey by larger animals.[3]

Socializing Your Guinea Pig

  1. Get another guinea pig. Guinea pigs are social herd animals who are happier in the presence of other guinea pigs.[7] Consider getting a second guinea pig (or more!) and you'll see the benefits, including higher levels of activity and increased exercise.
    • In some countries, it is even illegal to buy single guinea pigs; you have to buy them in pairs.
    • If you do get another guinea pig, make sure it is of the same sex as the guinea pig you currently have OR that it is neutered or spayed if it is of the opposite sex. This is important because if a male guinea pig and a female guinea pig are housed together, they will likely mate and the female pig will become pregnant, which is quite dangerous.[4]
  2. Interact and bond with your guinea pig regularly. Guinea pigs love to interact with humans as well as other pigs. Socializing with your guinea pig is one way to keep him happy and healthy. Talk to your guinea pig, cuddle him, carry him in your hands, and pet his fur as often as you can. Show him that you love him![7]
    • It's important that you give your guinea pig special attention on a daily basis, handling, cuddling, and touching him as often as you can manage.
  3. Handle your guinea properly and with care. Always make sure to support the entire body since guinea pigs are small animals with delicate bones. Some pigs also tend to jump, especially when they are being returned to their cages. Such falls can result in broken bones, serious injuries, and even death. To handle your pig properly, wrap one hand around his chest and use the other to support his hind feet and bottom. Hold him against your chest for extra security.[9] Talk to your guinea pig gently as you pick him up and handle him and make sure to approach him from the front so as not to frighten him.[10]
    • If you have a jumpy guinea pig that likes to squirm around, you can train your pig to not struggle when being held or put back in his cage. Hold your guinea pig firmly but gently, when you move to put him back in the cage, hold him a few inches above the floor. Do not put him down as long as he continues to squirm while in your hands. Be careful not to squeeze him too tight or you could damage his back and cause paralysis. Only place your guinea pig onto the cage floor once your he stops squirming and struggling against you but don't let go since he will probably try to run away. Hold him yet again until he stops moving. After several training sessions, your guinea pig will learn that he can be free once he stops squirming.
    • Young children should not be permitted to carry a guinea pig in their hands because they may inadvertently squeeze the pig too hard or drop him.[9]
  4. Teach your guinea pig tricks. Guinea pigs are very smart. You can teach them to stand on their hind legs, spin, run in a circle, stand on a pedestal, jump, and respond to his own name. In general, guinea pigs aren't as easy to train as other rodents, but you can be successful with a bit of patience![11]
    • Younger guinea pigs tend to be more receptive to training and learning tricks than older ones.[11]
    • To teach your guinea pig tricks, you'll need to rely on a method known as operant conditioning, which means that you have to reward your guinea pig each time he successfully completes a task. You start off rewarding small movements and then put the whole trick together.
    • For example, if you want your pig to run in a circle on command, you'll need a pocket full of treats (such as little bits of carrot) and something that makes noise, like a clicker. Issue the command "turn" and if your guinea pig even turns his head the littlest bit, click the clicker and give him a reward. This will help him learn that when he hears the clicking sound he has done something right and that there will be a reward. Repeat the signal until he has it mastered and then make it more difficult to earn the reward (e.g., only give him the carrot bit if he does a quarter-turn and then a half-turn and then so on, until he does the full action). You should train with your guinea everyday for results.[11]

Related Articles

Sources and Citations

  1. ↑ https://www.petfinder.com/pet-care/small-and-furry-care/guinea-pig-basics-illness-warnings/
  2. ↑ http://www.petmd.com/exotic/conditions/digestive/c_ex_gp_appetite_loss
  3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/guinea_pigs/tips/guinea_pig_housing.html?credit=web_id81806465
  4. ↑ 4.00 4.01 4.02 4.03 4.04 4.05 4.06 4.07 4.08 4.09 4.10 4.11 http://www.guineapigcages.com/toys.htm
  5. ↑ http://www.guineapigcages.com/hay.htm
  6. ↑ 6.0 6.1 http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/guinea_pigs/tips/guinea_pig_food_choices.html?credit=web_id104983548
  7. ↑ 7.0 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 7.5 7.6 https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/small-pet-care/guinea-pig-care
  8. ↑ http://pets.petsmart.com/guides/guinea-pigs/caring-guinea-pig.shtml
  9. ↑ 9.0 9.1 http://www.guinealynx.info/handling.html
  10. ↑ http://www.guineapigmanual.com/guinea-pig-handling/
  11. ↑ 11.0 11.1 11.2 http://www.petplace.com/article/small-mammals/general/behavior-training-of-small-mammals/training-your-guinea-pig
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