Make Tile Floors from Scrap Materials

Bored with bland, symmetrical tile floors? Are you, coincidentally, a fan of Abstract Expressionism? And also sort of thrifty? Tile floors (and walls) made from scrap, broken, discarded or leftover stone and tile can be time consuming, but they are deeply satisfying to make and more interesting to look at than floors made with just one type of tile.

Steps

  1. Find a source for scrap, broken or discontinued tile and stone. All the marble and granite shown in the picture in the introduction was salvaged from the trash pile at a stone distributor/fabricator. Tile distributors also sell returns and discontinued styles at a discount. Collect pieces that are all roughly the same thickness. Don't be concerned about using colors and patterns that don't match - the variety is what makes the overall floor appealing.
  2. Put the pieces together. If you have the inclination and mental discipline to work out a pattern first, draw it on the floor and then fit the stone to it. However, you can also just pick a corner and start laying out pieces, expanding on patterns suggested by shapes and colors in the materials, fitting them together as you would a jigsaw puzzle. Cut pieces as needed with a wet-cutting tile saw, fitting the stone together so the Dye Grout for Mosaic Tiles lines are 1/8" to1/2" wide. If you're making a completely abstract pattern, lay out the entire floor without mortar first - cutting and fitting can be very time-consuming.
  3. Set the pieces in place. Once you're satisfied with the floor, mix about 2 gallons worth of white tile-setting mortar (the kind used for marble), carefully move several square feet of the pattern to the side, spread mortar in that area with a wide-notch trowel (check the mortar bag for recommended trowel size) and then set the stone back in place permanently. Check a few pieces to make sure they're roughly 3/4th covered with mortar. If they're not, spread additional mortar and/or spread some mortar on the back of the piece. Use metal washers or stone chips to shim up low pieces - all the pieces should be close to the same level so the floor is smooth and you don't stub your toe when walking. Dull any sharp, protruding edges with a tile saw or grinding stones. Wipe excess mortar off the tile and out of the grout lines within 20 minutes.
  4. Wait. After the entire floor is done, stay off it for 24 hours. Then apply a sealer or grout release (very important with rough stone tiles), let it dry, and finally grout using sanded grout. Work in 5 - 10 s.f. sections, wiping grout from the tile surface within 15-20 minutes of spreading it. Scrub off the fine haze after the grout has hardened (8 hrs.), then apply a final coat of sealer after a few days (check sealer instructions).

Tips

  • You can use tile instead of stone to create an abstract floor or wall. Check tile stores and contractors for closeouts, old samples and odd lots. Start at a corner or sketch a few lines on the floor as starting points, then improvise the rest. Again, lay out as much as possible beforehand to save time once the mortar is mixed. Keep the grout lines 1/4" or less in width.
  • Another way to create a more interesting tile job is to add a few expensive glass or stone tiles to an area of inexpensive field tiles.
  • If a complete floor or wall is too intimidating, use standard-size tile for most of the space, then fill small areas - for instance at doors or corners - with different colors and shapes of tile.
  • Don't be afraid to take chances with colors. The very worst that can happen is that you won't like it and you'll have to chip up a tile and replace it, which can usually be done in minutes.
  • Look for awkward transitional areas like thresholds, out-of-square corners or stairs, then use a mixture of colors and patterns to turn these awkward problems into features.

Warnings

  • Ask the tile store or stone fabricator before digging through their trash pile.
  • Use safety glasses when cutting stone or tile. Wear rubber gloves when grouting.

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