Make Your Own Sewing Patterns

Making your own sewing patterns can save money and allow you to size garments to your measurements. The simplest way to make a sewing pattern is to copy a garment you already have and make any alterations you desire based on that. You can also make sewing patterns from scratch using nothing but your own measurements, but you will need to research how the particular garment you want to design comes together so that you know how to plot out the different pattern pieces.

Steps

Method One: Copycat Patterns

1. Trace the seams with chalk. Spread out the garment you want to copy so that it lies flat and face-up. Trace each front seam of the garment with white chalk.
   • This technique can be used on any garment, but it does work best on simple garments stitched together from simple shapes. You can also use this garment to make a copycat pattern of sewn accessories, like handbags.
   • For the time being, focus on the seams surrounding the largest part of the front portion of the garment. You will work on the front of the garment first, starting with the largest section and gradually moving through the smaller sections. After that, you will work on the back.
   • For example, if you want to make a copycat pattern of a dress, chalk the sleeve seams and the seam separating the torso from the skirt (if applicable).
2. Spread out the pattern paper. Lay out a large piece of brown postal wrapping paper, spreading it flat over a hard surface.
   • A hard surface will make the transfer and tracing process easier. Avoid doing this on carpet or other soft surfaces.
   • Stiff corkboard works well because you can pin the garment in place as you work.
   • Brown postal wrapping paper is also ideal because it comes in large amounts. Moreover, chalk shows up on the paper relatively well.
3. Flatten the original garment on top of the paper. Place your garment chalk-side down on your paper. Straighten the garment out, then carefully apply pressure on the back of the garment along each seam.
   • Use your non-dominant hand or weights to keep the garment still and flat against the paper. Simultaneously use your dominant hand to rub over the back of your garment around any area you chalked previously.
   • If done correctly, the chalk on your garment should rub off onto the paper.
   • You can pin the garment to the paper as you work, but only do this if you are working on top of corkboard or a similar porous surface. Stick the pins straight through the garment, the paper, and the corkboard.
4. Trace around the perimeter of the largest area. With the garment still lying flat, trace around the top, bottom, and side edges of the garment using your chalk.
   • Make sure that the garment remains flat and still.
   • Only trace around the edges of the main section. Each section requires its own pattern piece, so you need to focus on one section at a time.
   • For example, if working on your copycat dress pattern, you would need to trace around the neckline and the sides of the torso during this part. If the skirt and torso form one big piece and are not connected by a seam, trace around the sides and bottom of the skirt, as well.
5. Repeat for the back and the smaller pieces. For each separate section of the garment, you will need to chalk the seams and press them against the paper. Likewise, you will need to trace around the edges of each section, as well. Create a separate pattern piece for each separate section of the garment.
   • Finish the front pieces first, then move onto the back pieces.
   • For example, on a copycat dress pattern, you might need to make front sleeve pieces, a front skirt piece, back sleeve pieces, a back torso piece, and a back skirt piece.
   • Make sure that you mark what each piece is as you work.
   • Do not draw the pattern pieces directly next to each other on the paper. Leave at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of space in between pieces.
6. Sketch a seam allowance. Remove the garment from the paper and sketch out a second parallel line 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) out from each edge of each pattern piece.
   • Technically, most commercial pieces use a seam allowance of 5/8 inches (1.6 cm), so you opt for that measurement instead of the 1/2 inch (1.25 cm). Regardless of what you choose, be consistent and use the same allowance for each piece.
7. Cut out the pieces. Use sharp scissors to cut out each pattern piece along the seam allowance lines.
   • This should complete the process.

Method Two: Basic Fitted T-Shirt Pattern from Scratch

1. Take-Clothing-Measurements. You'll need to measure around your torso, arms, and neck. Add 2 inches (5 cm) or so to most of the measurements so that the shirt will have some "ease," or comfortable looseness. You will need to measure:
   • The half neck: loosely hang a string around your neck. Measure this string, add the ease measurement, and divide by two.
   • The half shoulder: measure the distance between your shoulders, add the ease, and divide by two.
   • The quarter bust: measure your bust, add the ease, and divide by four.
   • The quarter waist: measure the smallest part of your waist, add the ease, and divide by four.
   • The quarter hip: measure the widest part of your hips, add the ease, and divide by four.
   • The high shoulder point (HSP) to upper chest: locate the point between the base of your neck and your shoulder. Measure from this point to your upper chest, bringing the tape measure under your armpit. Add the ease.
   • The distance between your HSP and natural waist.
   • The distance between your HSP ad hip.
   • The bicep half: measure the fullest part of your bicep with the arm down, add the ease, and divide by two.
   • The sleeve length: measure from your shoulder point to the point you want the sleeve to end.
   • The underarm seam length: measure from the armpit to the point you want your sleeve to hit, then subtract 1 inch (2.5 cm).
   • The wrist half, if making a long sleeve t-shirt: measure the circumference of your wrist and divide by two.
2. Plot out the front. Unroll a piece of paper longer than your HSP to hip and quarter hip measurements. One edge must be perfectly straight.
   • Lightly draw a perpendicular line out from the straight edge, starting 2 inches (5 cm) from the top of the paper and measuring as long as your half neck measurement. This is your HSP.
   • Lightly draw another perpendicular line 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) below the first. It should equal the length of your half shoulder measurement.
   • From the HSP, measure down the distance of your HSP to upper chest. Mark the spot.
   • Draw a perpendicular line directly over the last mark from the straight edge of your paper. It should equal your quarter bust.
   • From your HSP, measure down the distance of your HSP to waist and mark the spot. Draw a perpendicular line over this mark from the straight edge of the paper, equal in length to your quarter waist.
   • From your HSP, measure down the distance of your HSP to hip, and mark the end point. Draw a perpendicular line over this mark, starting at the straight edge of the paper, making it equal in length to your quarter hip.
3. Connect the points. You'll need to connect the marks you measured out in a specific way to form the front of your t-shirt pattern.
   • Draw a slight concave curve extending from the HSP to the straight edge of the paper. This will be your front neck drop. The line should be horizontally straight for at least 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) at both ends.
   • Connect the HSP to your shoulder point with a very minor convex curve.
   • Draw a concave curve between your shoulder point and quarter bust line to create an armhole. It should be fairly straight as it drops down from the shoulder, and the curve should sharpen once it goes into the side of your shirt.
   • Draw a line from the bustline to the waistline, then all the way down to the hip. If you want straight sides, make a straight line. For a more fitted look, make a gently inward curve.
   • Draw a slight convex curve from the hip line to the straight edge of your paper. The end point should be about 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) below your hip line.
   • Note that when looking at the straight edge of your paper, you should look at it as the “center fold.” In other words, it is the vertical center of your shirt. When you cut material for this pattern, you will fold it along this “center fold” line and cut out two layers of fabric.
4. Repeat for the back, with minor alterations. Use the same method followed for the front shirt piece to sketch out a pattern piece for the back of the shirt. When you reach the back neck drop, make the drop less dramatic.
   • While the front neck drop can be 2 inches (5 cm) or more, the back should only be 1/2 to 1 inch (1.25 to 2.5 cm).
   • If your pattern paper is see-through, you may want to consider laying a second piece on top of the first and tracing your front pattern piece to get you started on the back piece.
5. Plot out the sleeve. You'll need to fold a piece of pattern paper in half. The paper should be 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10 cm) larger than your bicep half and sleeve length measurements.
   • Note that this should be a height-wise fold.
   • Measure the sleeve length along the folded edge, marking both the top and bottom of the measurement. Start at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the top of the paper.
   • From the bottom mark, measure up the length of your underarm seam length, and mark the point.
   • Over this point, measure a perpendicular line out, making it the length of your bicep half. Mark the point.
6. Connect the dots. You'll need to plot the upper curve of your sleeve and the straight edges.
   • Measure your armhole distance on a measuring tape. Pinch the mark, then arrange the measuring tape on your pattern piece. Start on the bicep line. Allow it to come up at a perpendicular angle for 1 inch (2.5 cm) before curving it in and causing it to cross into the top of the fold at a right angle. Trace this line.
   • Draw another perpendicular line out from the bottom of the folded edge equaling the distance of the bicep half, minus 1 inch (2.5 cm).
   • Draw a straight line connecting the end of the previous line to the end of your first bicep half line.
   • Trace this plotted sleeve half onto the other side of the folded paper.
7. Add a seam allowance. Use your chalk to draw a second edge around all of your pattern pieces. This second edge will be your seam allowance.
   • The seam allowance should be 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) around the shirt front, back, and sleeve pieces.
   • At all of your hem lines, change this seam allowance to 1 inch (2.5 cm).
8. Cut out the pattern pieces. Use sharp scissors to cut out each pattern piece along the seam allowance lines. Set aside until ready to use.
   • Make sure that each pattern piece is labeled accurately.
9. Sketch out the neckband. For the neckband, you will need to measure out the front and back neck curves and draw a rectangle based on that.
   • Measure the front and back neck curves along the seam line, not the seam allowance edge. Multiply those numbers by two, then add them both together to get your neck circumference.
   • The length of your neckband rectangle should be 7/8 the size of this measurement.
   • The width of your neckband rectangle should be about 1-1/2 inches (3.8 cm), but you can alter this measurement based on how wide you want the neckband to be.
10. Cut out the neckband. Cut this pattern piece out, label it, and put it with the others.
    • This should complete the entire process.

Tips

• If you want to make a pattern for a different type of garment, you can read online tutorials about the process or you can study commercial patterns for that garment type to get an idea of how the clothing comes together.

Things You'll Need

• Tape measure
• Brown postal wrapping paper or similar tracing paper
• Acrylic ruler
• Seam gauge
• White chalk
• Original garment to trace (optional; Copycat Patterns only)

Sources and Citations

See also

• Sew Using Patterns
• Read a Sewing Pattern
• Make a Dress Using a Pattern
• Make Sewing Patterns That Fit
• Make Your Own Pattern for Sewing a New Piece of Clothing
• Measure an Arm Hole