Operate a Chainsaw
Operating a chainsaw can be dangerous and strenuous work. Before using one, be familiar with its hazards, special safety requirements, and techniques.
Steps
- Read all safety precautions and instructions in the user's manual.
- Select a model you can operate comfortably, that is large enough for the application you are using it for. If you have not bought or borrowed a saw already, think about renting one from a tool rental store, just to get an idea of the size and blade configuration you are comfortable using.
- For a novice, a bar type blade is more practical than a bow blade, so this article will discuss the bar blade. The bar needs to be at least one third longer than the diameter of the tree or log you are cutting.
- Usually, the horsepower or displacement of the engine is relative to the length of your bar, and is matched at the factory. A well-tuned engine and sharp blade will allow you to cut quickly, easily and accurately, resulting in safer conditions.
- A small person doing a light trimming job may find an electric chainsaw is better suited for their task, but for purposes of brevity, this article will focus on gasoline saws.
- Look at the area where you are going to work, before fueling your saw. It is critical to have room to do your job safely. This means watching for overhead power lines and obstructions, nearby cars and buildings, and escape room from falling trees or limbs for the saw operator.
- Recognize the four normal cuts that you may make with a chainsaw. Each of these type cuts have considerations and cautions which need to be addressed. Falling a tree on a power line will always be disastrous. Falling on a friend or neighbor's car or house will at least lead to hard feelings. Again, for brevity, it is not practical to describe all these situations in detail.
- Felling: This is the act of cutting down a tree.
- Limbing: This is removing limbs from the tree before or after it is felled.
- Trimming: (when using a chain saw) This refers to cutting limbs back or taking off branches on a limb. (if you are not using a chain saw, this could be as simple as shaping a bush-for brevity, not discussed here)
- Bucking: This is cutting the "log" or trunk of the tree in usable pieces, for instance, fireplace lengths.
- Look at your chainsaw. If you are preparing to start the saw, you have already selected a saw that is suitable for your project and build.
- Fill the gas tank with the correct fuel/oil mixture, which is typically one gallon of gasoline with 4 to 6 ounces of two cycle engine oil. Because chainsaws are two cycle engines, they do not have a lubricating oil supply, and they will burn up quickly if the correct fuel is not used.
- Do a safety check. Ensure that the chain is on properly, has the tension adjusted appropriately, and cannot rotate when the chain brake is engaged. Check that the air filter is properly installed and that the faceplate and bar nuts are on firmly.
- Note that there are two filler caps on your saw, near the throttle handle. The caps may be labeled, and often the larger cap will be for fuel, and the smaller for bar lubricant. Fill the bar lube tank, check both caps to ensure that they are tightly installed, and place the saw on a flat surface. This is especially important for cranking very large saws, since the blade will commence turning as soon as the saw starts and revs up.
- If your model has a primer bulb on the carburetor, pump the bulb 3 or 4 times. If your saw is equipped with a choke lever, place it in the choke position. This causes the carburetor to suck fuel into the combustion chamber more quickly. Engage the chain brake. Switch the saw to "on", this will either be a toggle, rocker, or plunger type switch, depending on model. Pull the starter rope sharply, until the engine "fires". If the engine fires but does not start, push the choke in half way and try again. Usually in a well tuned saw, it will take no more than 4 or 5 pulls to get the saw running.
- When your saw is running at idle, the blade should not engage and turn. Hopefully, you have selected a practice piece of wood or chosen a limb or log in an easy place to cut. Bring the blade in line with the cut you are going to make, disengage the chain brake, squeeze the throttle fully open, and lay the blade against the wood. Do not force the blade, it will draw into the cut with just the weight of the blade, or moderate pressure. Keep the saw running full throttle throughout the cut, easing the throttle off only as you are about to exit the cut on the other side of the log.
- Prepare for a binding situation. Have a sledge hammer and wedge, a spitting maul, or at least an axe and wood wedge in case the limb you are cutting wedges your bar and you cannot free it.
- When you have completed your cutting operation, allow the saw to cool down before storing. Often it is a good idea to drain out the fuel and oil before storing since these may leak out and are flammable materials. The engine can be run one last time to empty the carburetor after you drain the fuel tank, this will keep the remaining fuel from gumming up the fuel system over long term storage.
- Keep the chainsaw bar and chain covered when not in use. A case is the best bet, but if you don't have one, buy a "bar cover" to protect both you and your saw.
Tips
- Keep the blade of the saw sharp and well oiled and never let it come in contact with metal or the ground. The blade simply is not designed to cut these materials and will become dull and useless immediately.
- Bring tools to the work site for adjusting the blade. A new saw chain will usually become loose after just a few minutes of use as it "breaks in" to the bar. Keeping the chain tight, but not too tight, will provide a cleaner, faster cut with less chance of chain throw off.
- The key is to touch up the cutters often with a file guide, say every time you stop to refuel. If you let the cutters get very dull, it will take a lot of time and elbow grease to get the sharp edges back.
- Cutting roots or dirty wood also will rapidly dull a saw chain, if you do this often, carbide toothed chains are available...but they're expensive!
- Anytime you feel the need to push down while cutting, its time to sharpen. The saw should feed itself into the cut with very little effort.
- This text is a simple overview of basic chainsaw operation. It is essential you find an experienced person to confirm your assessments of safety regarding the situation as well as your technique.
- Random use of a chainsaw is easy, but quality cuts and accuracy take knowledge and experience. It is not advised that you fell or limb a tree of any size greater than {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} with out some professional involvement (it also happens to require a contractors license in many states-be sure to check the laws in your respective state)
Warnings
- Store fuel and lubricants in approved containers, away from the cutting area.
- If you are unable to have someone watch for safety while you cut, consider waiting until someone is available, or at least let someone know what you are doing, where you are at, and when you are finished. One slip with a running saw can be fatal.
- Do not attempt to operate a chainsaw that isn't in good working condition. The kick-back brake, chain guard, and other safety features are for your protection. If damaged, have it repaired before use.
- Use a saw big enough for the job. Cutting half the diameter of a log doubles the chances of kickback.
- Each type of cut mentioned at the beginning of this article has unique dangers and approaches. Space just doesn't allow for covering them all in sufficient detail, so if in doubt, ask!
- Chainsaw safety chaps are strongly encouraged. These are constructed from nylon, kevlar, or fiberglass and designed to instantly stop and jam the saw if it contacts your leg. These can be found locally, or with a simple internet search for around $50.00 or sometimes even less.
- First and foremost, be careful and aware of the dangers of "kick back", which is the leading cause of chainsaw injury. Always avoid touching the tip of the guide bar to any surface, as this will tend to throw the nose of the saw back towards the user. Also, do not hold the saw so it is lined up with your center-line. Always hold it off to your right side so it will miss your face if it kicks back. Special "low kickback" chains are available to reduce the risk also.
- Do not operate a chainsaw without all recommended safety items. Gloves, eye protection, hearing protection, and long sleeve shirts and long pants are minimum. New saws often come with a hard hat to protect from falling debris or limbs.
Things You'll Need
- Chainsaw
- Wrenches, screwdriver (scrench-combination tool especially for chainsaws).
- 2 cycle oil and gasoline mix - a 50:1 ratio for today's saws.
- Bar oil - has special additives to keep it from being flung off the chain and to prevent tree sap from sticking to the chain ... do not use motor oil.
- Safety equip, including long pants, hearing protection, safety glasses (essential). Chaps, boots, forestry helmet, gloves (optional, but highly recommended)
- Axe and wedge for freeing fouled blades.
- Sharpening supplies: file guide, depth gauge tool or grinder w/stone.
- Plastic felling wedges to push tree in desired direction while felling (path of fall determined by notch cut).
