Prune Rose Bushes
Pruning a rose bush can help encourages new growth and blooms, but it must be done properly. This article will show you how to prune rose bushes the correct way.
Contents
10 Second Summary
1. Prune after the last frost of the winter, or when the buds have started to swell.
2. Rinse your pruning shears in alcohol before pruning.
3. Cut at a 45 degree angle, ¼-inch (0.64-centimeter) above outward-facing bud eyes.
4. Seal pruning cuts with glue to prevent pests and disease.
Steps
Deciding When to Prune
- Prune right after the last frost. Depending on where you live, this might be late January or February, or it could be some time in early spring. Pruning just after the last frost of the season is the best time to clear away dead or diseased rose canes (stems). Since you waited until there's no chance another frost will happen, the rosebush won't get damaged by harsh temperatures or ice.
- Prune when the buds have begun to swell. This is an indicator that the bush is ready to be pruned. When the buds have just begun to swell, you'll be able to prune effectively without causing any damage.
- Check the stems for signs of leaf bud growth. If you haven't seen any new growth since the fall, and you don't see tiny new swells, wait a few more weeks before pruning.
- The buds should also turn redder in color as they swell, another sign the bush is ready for pruning.
- Prune according to the type of rose you have. Some roses actually need to be pruned after they bloom, rather than while they are still dormant. While it probably won't damage the rosebush to prune it at a different time of year, you won't get the results you're looking for. If you don't know what rose variety you have, look for these signs that may indicate when to prune your rosebush:
- If the rosebush produces new growth in the spring, and the blooms come from this new growth, that means the rosebush should be pruned while it's dormant, right when the buds have begun to swell. Wait until next spring to prune.
- If the rosebush blooms come straight from the old canes, rather than from new growth, the bush should be pruned after it flowers instead.
Using the Right Pruning Technique
- Use a good pair of pruning shears and long-handled loppers. The shears are for smaller branches, and the loppers are for thick canes. Make sure your tools are sharp so they will make clean cuts rather than causing tears and rips in the stems.
- Rinse shears in alcohol before pruning. Rinse them again before moving on to another bush. This step disinfects your shears and prevents the transfer of diseases, such as black spot, between the plants.
- Cut at a 45 degree angle. This way water will run off of the "wound" instead of collecting there. It helps prevent disease and mold from growing on the rose bush. The slope of the angle should head toward the center of the plant.
- Cut 1/4" above outward-facing bud eyes. The bud eyes, also called bud unions, are the swelling reddish knobs on the canes of the rosebush. Bud eyes produce the rosebush's branches. Making cuts just above the bud eyes redirects the plant's energy to a bud eye, so a branch will form there. Choose bud eyes that are facing outward so that the branches grow out, rather than into the center of the bush.
- Seal pruning cuts with white glue or carpenter's glue. This isn't absolutely necessary, but it's a good idea if you have pest problems in your area. It prevents rose boring insects from invading, and helps prevent stem diseases.
Pruning to Maximize the Health of Your Roses
- Remove the dead canes. These are the black, shriveled stalks that will no longer produce new growth. The healthy canes are green or brown and firm. Use your pruning shears to cut them as close to the base as possible. If you find a cane that looks like it's still partially alive, make a cut 1/4 ich above one of the bud eyes.
- Prune the suckers. These are the new plant shoots sprouting from the ground right next to the older rosebush. They're called "suckers" because they suck away the nutrients from the older bush, causing its health to fail.
- Prune the suckers from their bases, rather than just chopping them down; they'll just grow back stronger if you do it that way.
- You might have to push back the soil a bit to get the sucker at its root.
- Prune thin or crossed canes. Canes that are very thin and look to be weak, or canes that are crossed toward the center of the bush, should be pruned at the base as well. These impair the bush's health by getting in the way of good air circulation, and they also make the bush look wild and unkempt.
- Prune the remaining healthy canes. Keeping in mind that new branches sprout from the bud eyes, prune the remaining canes to achieve the desired rosebush shape. Prune {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} above outward facing bud eyes, so the new branches will grow outward. Decide how high or low you want to keep the bush, and prune accordingly.
- Deadhead the bush. As the growing season moves along, the bush will produce blossoms that eventually fade. Removing these is called deadheading, and is healthy for the rosebush. The energy that went toward the fading blossom will be redirected to produce a new one. Cut the spent bloom off just above the first five leaf cluster.
Tips
- Rake after you have pruned and add new mulch to the area. This will help to minimize the growth of rose diseases.
- Roses can take, and actually need, the pruning. Be brave and hack away.
- Do not use any part of the rose for compost. Diseases such as black spot survive and infect your roses.
- Use an anti-fungal spray recommended for roses. Spray after pruning and sealing cuts.
- Seal pruning cuts with inexpensive white glue or carpenters glue.
Warnings
- If you are growing 'Old Garden Roses' do NOT prune them! Only gently shape and remove dead growth on these types.
Things You'll Need
- Rubbing Alcohol
- Bypass pruning shears (the kind that act like scissors slicing the cane, as opposed to anvil shears that crush the cane)
- Long-handled loppers
- Work gloves
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