Repair a Loose Wood Screw Hole for a Hinge

Do you have a wood screw hole for a hinge that is loose? Here are a few quick suggestions on how to go about doing this type of repair yourself.

Steps

Drilling Out the Stripped Hole

  1. Drill out the stripped hole and glue in a dowel the same diameter as the drill bit. If door sag has been a problem, drill through the jamb, any shims behind the jamb, and into the door framing studs. This gives you a dowelled connection all the way back to the wall framing that will be suitable for a long wooden screw.
  2. Glue, then cut the dowel off flush with the edge of the door or hinge mortise and pilot drill for the screw after the glue sets. Reinstall the screw.

Relocating the Hinge

  1. Relocate the hinge just a little up or down. This may require re-chiseling the pocket in the frame and on the door; then filling with plastic wood and touching up the paint. This is probably the most labor intensive fix. Suggest you try this when all else fails.

Using a Shim

  1. Wedge a shim into the hole (a toothpick or wooden matchstick, for example) but it probably won't hold for long. You may be tempted to try this, but for a hinge, you really need holding power. Not recommended.

Using Over-Sized Screws

  1. Use over-sized screws. For example, a longer screw (2-1/2" ( 6.35 cm) to replace a 1-1/2" (3.8 cm)) or a thicker screw (#8 in place of #6).
  2. Make sure that the screw head won't stick out and interfere with operation of the door by causing binding or scarring the frame.

Using Wood Glue

  1. Coat a shim or plug with wood glue and wedge it into the hole.
  2. After the glue dries, re-mount the hinge. Re-drilling a pilot hole into the shim might be helpful in keeping the screw in line with the hinge plate.

Using a Sheet-Rock Anchor

  1. Use a sheet-rock anchor. However, like the shim-only method (no glue), this might not last for very long.

Using Pine

  1. Take a small piece of pine, (1/4" (1/2 cm ) cm) x 1/4") and, using a sharp knife, whittle it to a point.
  2. Put a dab of wood glue on the point and tap it into place lightly, with a hammer.
  3. Once you have the whittled pine sitting snugly in the hole, use a sharp chisel to slice the pine flush with the hole.
  4. Make sure that the glue has dried, then place the hinge back where it belongs and mark the hole with a pencil.
  5. Use a small finish nail or drill with a small drill bit (smaller than the diameter of the screw) to create a pilot hole for the hinge screw.

Using Decking Screws

  1. Use decking screws. Probably the most permanent way is to use decking screws about 5 inches (12.5 cm) long, especially if it is an exterior door.
  2. Check to be sure the the heads are the same size as this will keep them from protruding and keeping the door from closing fully.
  3. Using the existing holes, run the extra long screws through the jamb and into the 2 x 4" (5 x 10 cm) framing stud inside the wall. This will permanently anchor the door into place and will last for many years. The reason for the extra long screws is that they have to pass through the jamb and through a couple of inches of empty space before hitting the framing stud in the wall. This is so effective that it is generally only necessary to use a couple of the decking screws per hinge.

Method 9: Using Steel Wool

  1. Stuff steel wool into the hole with screwdriver. Fill the hole almost completely. Screw the screw into the hole.

Method 10: Using a Golf Tee

  1. Drive a golf tee into the old hole and use a chisel or cut it flush. Use wood glue for a more permanent fix.

Method 11: Using Toilet Paper and Glue

  1. Mix one or two sheets of toilet paper with Elmer's Glue, e.g. using a small cup and a screwdriver. The paper disintegrates easily, and the mixture can resemble modeling clay with the right amount of glue. Stuff the mixture into the hole, e.g. with a nail head, before it sets and make a pilot hole with the nail. Before the unused mixture has hardened completely, drive the screw partially into the pilot hole, then remove the screw and allow the material to harden further for an hour or two. The dried material is firmly bonded and holds screws as well as the original wood. This procedure also works well for filling holes in wallboard.

Method 12: Using a Power Drill

  1. Just use a 2 inch long, self-drilling screw with a power drill. Drill the screw at an angle, I.E. slightly up or slightly down. I have been fixing doors this way for twenty-five years and have never broken a jam or had the door come off again. Do not put the screw in at an angle more than 20 degrees or the head of the screw will stick out and prevent the hinge from closing (but you can file the screw down so it will not hit with an attachment that goes on the drill). I usually put the screws in at about a 10 or 15 degree angle so they will not prevent the hinge from closing.
    • Many times you can use longer a 3 inch, self drilling screw right in the old hole without having to go in at an angle. I have used 2, 3, 4, 5 and even 6 inch screws in old jams. Since I learned this, I have never replaced a jam. I buy the screws in one pound boxes but I use so many 2 inch, self drilling screws to fix doors that I buy them in five pound boxes.
    • Be sure and replace all three screws where the problem is so that it will really hold well (permanently).
    • With the self drilling screws and an electric drill, you can fix the door really fast (in minutes).

Using Oil

This method is good for a first time repair.

  1. Coat the inside of the hole with lite oil, but don't overdo it.
  2. Let it soak into the wood for a few hours.
  3. Reinstall the screw.



Tips

  • When drilling a pilot (starter) hole for a wood screw in a hinge, use a self-centering drill bit (one brand name is Vix Bit). They ensure a perfectly centered hole. If the hole isn't centered the screw will go in crooked and leave the screw head a little protruded. This could prevent the door from shutting properly.
    • There is a file attachment that goes on the power drill. You can use this attachment to file down the head of the screw if it prevents the hinge from closing. This can be done with the screw in the door.
  • Use a dial caliper that probes to gauge the depth of the hole for pre-cutting a dowel filler. This way you don't have to cut flush against the mortise or jamb.
  • If you have an automatic closer on your door, install a foot to hold it open or use a wedge at the floor. Don't place a wedge at the top corner of the door above the hinge, between the edge of the door and frame, as it will stress the screws in the top hinge and cause them to fail.

Warnings

  • Driving anything into the original screw hole(s) must be done very gently to avoid splitting the jamb. Light taps with a hammer until the glue just starts to squeeze out is sufficient.

Related Articles

  • Fix a Stripped Cabinet Knob or Drawer Pull
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