Set Up a Guitar

Getting to know your guitar better is a wonderful thing and will help you out in the long run. Here is a step-by-step procedure for an easy, do-it-yourself set-up. Just as with every project, the first thing you will need is a good set of tools.

Steps

Adjusting the Neck

  1. Check the straightness of the neck. Inspect the neck for signs of warping or bowing. To check more precisely, run a ruler along the length of the guitar, resting it on the frets. Do this on both sides to make sure your neck is not twisted.
    • You want your neck to have an ever-so-slight curve inwards, so the headstock will bow slightly toward the bridge. Guitar engineers refer to this curve as giving your neck some "relief." You should have a very slight gap between your neck and your straight edge. If your neck curves away from the strings, backward, you may have a problem that will affect the action of the guitar, and you should take it to a guitar shop to have it checked out.
  2. Make a more precise measurement if you think it may be bowed out. Use the D string to check the straightness of the neck by checking the string height. After stringing the guitar, Fret the D string at the 1st and 22nd frets, or whichever is the highest fret on your fretboard, then check the distance between the string and the fretboard at the 12th fret. Ideally, you should just be able to slide a business card under it. You can check the straightness of the whole neck by fretting at different places, using the string as a straight edge.
    • If you've got access to a feeler gauge, take a capo and place it over the first fret. Hold down the lowest string at the last fret. With your feeler, gauge check the distance between the string and the 8th fret. The measurement should be approximately .010" (0.254 mm). If this measurement is greater than .010" you will have to tighten your truss rod by turning the Allen wrench clockwise.
  3. Adjust the truss rod to adjust the neck. If you need to make an adjustment to the bow of the neck, remove the truss rod cover, which is usually located at the top of the neck on most guitars, but will also sometimes be at the bottom, closer to the bridge. Adjust delicately, using gentle quarter turns with the appropriate-sized allen wrench.
    • If your neck is too convex, you will have to turn your Allen wrench counterclockwise, raising the strings. When making this adjustment, take your time and only turn it a quarter of a turn at a time. Then let your guitar settle for a bit and re-tune it before checking again or attempting to play it. Let it sit overnight.
  4. Check the angle between your neck and your body. If your truss rod is set correctly, but the strings above the 12th fret are too far from the fretboard, it's possible that there is an angle between your neck and your body. Make sure that your guitar is resting on a flat work surface, and remove the strings before you attempt to unbolt the neck. Bolt-on necks can be removed from the body by removing four screws at the back of the guitar, to ensure that the joint is flush.
    • The neck of your guitar should be parallel to the body of the guitar, but often there will be a lot of sawdust from the factory, which means the neck will be askew. If it is, clean up the area and bolt the neck back on.
    • If the angle of your neck is still incorrect, you can change it by putting a "spacer", either between the two bottom screws to tilt the neck backwards, or between the two top screws to tilt the neck forward. Something very thin, like Post-It notes, works fine. They stick to the surface and won't move as you bolt the neck back on. If you need a thicker spacer, just fold the Post-It note over itself.

Adjusting Action and Intonation

  1. Adjust the action of the guitar strings. The "action" of a guitar refers to the height of the strings off the fretboard. Players with a light touch can usually get away with lower action, while heavy players may need more height to prevent rattling strings. The most important thing is that the string height is comfortable for you and that you do not have any fret buzz. If you have a couple of guitars try these procedures on the least precious one first and then attempt it on your treasure.
    • Start by measuring the distance from the bottom of the string to the first fret. This will help you determine whether the nut slots have been cut to the proper depth. If this measurement does not match up or come close to spec, you should take your guitar in to have this done. The string height at the twelfth fret will determine if your saddle should be raised our lowered. Here are the some standard specifications for electrics:
      • 1st fret treble side - 1/64" or .0156 (0.397 mm)
      • 1st fret bass side - 2/64" or .0313 (0.794 mm)
      • 12th fret treble side - 3/64" or .0469 (1.191 mm)
      • 12th fret bass side - 5/64" or .0781 (1.984 mm)
  2. Do a quick and dirty adjustment. Assuming that your truss rod is adjusted properly, and that the angle of your neck is correct, adjust the height of your treble E string so that it barely clears a standard US dime placed on the 12th fret. A dime is slightly less than 2/32" (1.6 mm)) thick. You may want a slightly lower action, if you can manage it.
    • The G and B strings are adjusted similarly, but the bass E, and the A and D strings, which are coiled, can be further from the fretboard.
  3. Set your intonation. Your guitar may be in tune on the first 12 frets, but when you get past the 12th fret and strike a chord it may sound terrible. If this occurs, you will know that you need to set your intonation. To do this, you will need to have a bridge that has adjustable saddles. Usually there will be screws on the bottom of the bridge that adjust the saddles forward or back, away from the top of the guitar. You should always set the intonation as the very last step of setting up your guitar, because every other adjustment that you make will change the intonation of your instrument.
    • To make adjustments, get your tuner and start on the low E string, checking the 12th fret harmonic (the note just above the fret), and the actual twelve fret E note. These should be the same. If they are not you will need to adjust the distance.
      • If the twelfth fret tone is higher than natural octave overtone, then lengthen the string by moving the saddle back towards the tailpiece.
      • If the twelfth fret tone is lower than the octave overtone, then you will have to shorten the string length and move the saddle up toward the top of the guitar.
    • Repeat this process for the rest of the strings and you'll have a fairly well intonated guitar. If you are a perfectionist, you can take your guitar into a repair shop that has a strobe tuner for even better accuracy.
  4. Consider getting fretwork done if necessary. If a few specific frets buzz while you play them, you may have uneven frets. If you're brave, you can try to improve your frets by leveling them. First, make sure that your truss rod, action and neck angle are all set up properly; a neck with too much bow can exacerbate uneven frets. Then, if any frets are coming up, you can reset them with a plastic mallet.
    • If that's still not enough, you can sand down your frets. Make sure that your neck is as straight as possible (but don't break the truss rod) and make sure your guitar is resting on a flat surface, then cover your fingerboard and nearby finished surfaces with tape to protect them, leaving exposed only the frets. Get a sanding block with 100 grade sandpaper. You must then sand all the frets simultaneously with the sanding block. With the sanding block flat on the frets, any taller fret will get sanded down to the same height as the other ones.
    • If your frets are in very bad shape, leveling your frets will be too difficult and you may have to refret, that is, change all the frets on your neck. This is both hard and expensive, making it economical to consult a luthier for the job.
  5. Adjust the tremolo bridge. The most important adjustment which is unique to the Floyd Rose, is to make sure that the tremolo bridge is properly balanced. First, check your truss rod as well as the angle of your neck and body. With your guitar tuned, look carefully at your tremolo bridge. It should be parallel to the body. If that is not the case, you must adjust the springs which are in the back of the guitar.
    • Tune your guitar again, and check the tremolo bridge. Repeat until the tremolo bridge is parallel to the body. Once that step has been performed, you must then re-tune, readjust the action, and finally the intonation. As you adjust the intonation, it is possible that the tremolo bridge will move and that the springs will need to be readjusted, in which case you will have to redo the intonation.
  6. Finished.



Tips

  • Change your strings on a regular basis. Always use the same gauge strings. String gauge is a personal preference. Most solid body guitars come with light gauge strings from the factory (.009-.042). Most jazz guitarists prefer a little thicker gauge (.010-.046). Of course, Stevie Ray used (.013-.056), so you really should try playing on different gauges until you find the strength you like. Also, thicker strings are ideal for slide playing, but if you do a lot of bending, you should try .009 gauge or even .008.
  • If your guitar strings are too far from the fretboard near the nut (e.g., at the 1st fret), you could benefit by lowering the strings at the nut. However, this is difficult to do.

Things You'll Need

  • New set of strings (ones that you plan on using regularly)
  • Wire cutters
  • Electronic tuner
  • Screwdriver(s) (depending on the guitar)
  • Allen key (1/4" or 5/16", or more varieties, depending on your guitar) or nut driver
  • Metal yardstick or long straight edge
  • Capo
  • Small ruler 1/16" Increments
  • Automotive feeler gauges (.002-025)

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Sources and Citations

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