Set Up a Plant‐Only Aquarium

When people think of aquariums, it’s hard to not think of little fish swimming around. There are tanks, however, made just for plants! Maintenance is easy, but you can’t skimp. While it may not seem as fun at first, it is an exciting hobby to get into. Aquascaping (arranging aquatic plants) is a true art form and there are even contests for who can create the best underwater scene! This is a unique way to keep plants in arguably the best way, so read on to find out how.

Steps

Setting Up The Tank Necessities

  1. Purchase and set up all necessary equipment. Just because you don’t have any fish doesn’t mean you can skimp. Basics include a simple filter of your choosing (hang-on back filters are the easiest to find and are suitable for most tanks), a tank light, and an air pump (with airstones and airline tubing, of course!).
    • The air pump does not need to be strong, it just needs to disturb the water to prevent stagnant buildup.
    • If your tank’s water temperature reaches extremes, it’s best to invest in a heater as well.
    • Different plants need different light levels, so do research and plan your tank accordingly.
    • Sunlight is not a suitable replacement for tank lights! It can heat up the tank and accelerate algae growth, so keep your tank away from it.
  2. Add gravel, sand, or other plant-friendly substrates and decorations if needed. Wash with normal tap water thoroughly.
    • You can skip decorations, but substrate is vital in planted tanks. Keep in mind that certain plants do better with certain substrates.
  3. Add conditioned water. There can be some aquarium salt (1 tbsp per 5 US gallons)[1] to ward off unsightly parasites, but aquatic plants usually don’t have any parasitic animals plaguing them.
    • Don’t add the plant fertilizer (substrate or water soluble) yet.
  4. Cycle your tank. Again, you can’t skip this even if you just want plants. Plants die over time, and a proper bacterial filtration system will make sure ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates don’t skyrocket.
    • While some (not a lot!) of nitrates are vital to the plants’ growth, ammonia and nitrites are toxic as well. Plants handle the chemicals better than fish do, but it’s better to err on the caution side.

Dealing With The Plants

  1. Research on your desired plants’ requirements. Of course, buy freshwater plants. As mentioned before, light requirements are a big factor. If your light is not strong enough (or too strong), then revise your plans. Think about nutritional requirements and how each plant grows. Some plants shade over each other, blocking out light. All of the plants need to coexist peacefully.
    • Buy from reputable sites. A snail-free promise should be searched for, as snails can reproduce quickly to decimate your tank.
    • Look carefully. Some “aquatic” plants actually should not be fully submerged. It’s okay to use these, but don’t put them fully in the water. They will rot.
    • Many plants are fine with gravel, but some do poorly in sand. Keep this in mind.
  2. Plan the plants’ positions aesthetically. This is the artsy part of aquascaping. Tall, bushy plants should be near the back to provide a background. Shorter, weedier plants can be in the middle. Smaller, stunning plants can be in the front as a centerpiece. Put the airstone in between plants to hide it, if you want. Try to use your imagination to build underwater scenes that have a natural feel to it.
    • If you included natural wood décor, there are “mosses” or other plants that flourish on wood. Add them!
    • A good example would be an underwater “meadow”. Hairgrass, wood, and rocks are used to create the illusion of a scene usually seen on ground.
  3. Add nutritional supplements if needed. There are different forms of nutrients, from pellets to solutions. Add the right amount according to your tank and follow instructions to the T. Since there are no fish (even if you will add invertebrates), there will be minimal waste for the plants to utilize. This is key to a healthy tank.
    • Don’t just put in whatever seems good. Too much can burn the roots and plants or mess with water chemistry.
  4. Add the plants. Wash off debris with normal tap water and pluck off any yellow or dead parts. Hopefully, you’ve devised a plan on how to center them, so work slowly. Plants that grow on wood can be tucked into crevices or held in place by a temporary rubber band. Rooted plants should have their roots tucked in completely into the substrate. Some plants come with a rhizome that should not be buried, so be careful. Floating plants can be attached to aquarium weights or rocks, or left to freely wander.

Performing Maintenance

  1. Change the water every two weeks or so. Even if less waste is being produced, the nitrates will eventually build up. Depending on if you put invertebrates in (see “Adding Invertebrates”), your tank size, and your number of plants, this frequency will change. This is a general rule. Change 25% of the water, treated and with salt if you want.
    • Once in a while, use your gravel or substrate vacuum to clean the substrate surface of rotting organic matter.
  2. Top off your tank if needed. If you use salt, do not add salt to the water you are topping off with! When water evaporates from your tank, the salt does not evaporate with it. Adding more salt can make the tank ocean-salty. As always, condition the water.
  3. Add fertilizers if needed. Some substrate fertilizers last for a very long time and do not need to be bothered for months. Some liquid varieties require weekly additions, so make sure you keep up on that. A carbon dioxide supplement can be useful as well, added weekly, and does not harm any animal or plant if used correctly.
  4. Scrubbing off algae may need to be done once in a while to keep up the appearance. Algae is not harmful unless it starts to block out light and suck up too many nutrients. A soft-padded brush (available at pet stores) easily gets the job done. Algae on plants is usually fine. If it bothers you, lightly rub it off with your fingers.
    • Avoid too much algae by keeping the tank away from sun, not using too-strong lights, and not overdoing the fertilizer.

Adding Invertebrates (Optional)

  1. Like with getting any new pet, research on what is acceptable for your current tank. These should be added to an established planted tank. Common invertebrates such as mystery snails and shrimp actually function as tank “cleaners”, eating dead matter. Many species are peaceful, but some can be incredibly aggressive. Some prefer open space, while others prefer hiding spaces. Be mindful.
    • Most pet store variety invertebrates only eat dead matter, but some do eat live plants. Be careful.
  2. Pick healthy specimens. Bright colors (if applicable), active movements, and an intact body indicate good health. Ask the pet supplier about the condition of their tanks to get a sense of how they are handled. If you see a tank filled with dead or diseased organisms (even fish), it may be best to pass on the invertebrates in there.
    • Don’t be afraid to request certain specimens! This is common and acceptable.
    • Avoid buying baby invertebrates. They generally do not do well in a new tank.
  3. Add them in slowly and Acclimate Your Fish to a New Aquarium. You should not add more than a few of any animal in at one time, to let the tank get used to it. Adding them in means that you should put them in a bucket and gently scoop them in. Dumping the bag’s contents into your tank can stress them and introduce questionable pet store water into your water.
    • The best method to acclimate them is to simply float the animals’ bag in the tank water for at least 30 minutes.
  4. Feed them properly. Cleaning a tank does not provide enough food. Giving them a balanced diet of vegetables, pellets, or frozen foods ensures healthiness. You want to make your invertebrates part of the whole underwater scene, not just a side attraction. Feed them well and they will grow beautifully!
    • Inadequate feeding will push normal scavengers into eating your plants at times, so protect your plants.
    • Remove food after a few hours if not eaten, to prevent mold.
  5. Enjoy the sight of your creatures among your nice plants! Even shrimp can enhance the tank, while tidying it. This type of tank can sustain itself nicely, with animals and plants working together. Still, take care of your tank!

Tips

  • Rectangular tanks are the best and easiest type to work with.
  • If your changing water is too warm/cold, leave it for a few hours at room temperature to stabilize.
  • If you are sure your tank is cycled well and it has been in use for at least a year, you can get away with less frequent water changes.
  • Instead of dumping the changing water into the tank, slowly pour it in. This will reduce disturbing the substrate and plants.

Warnings

  • Never do a full water change unless you have a real reason.
  • Changing your whole filter cartridge and media (where all the nitrifying bacteria reside) should not be done. You can take out the media (usually charcoal substance inside the cartridge) and transfer it into another cartridge if needed.
  • Never wash a filter cartridge with bacteria from a cycle in tap water. This will kill the bacteria.
  • Don’t uproot your plants for a cleaning; it’s not necessary and can be harmful to the plant’s growth.
  • Avoid stirring up the substrate a lot if you use pellet fertilizer.
  • Invertebrates don’t fill in for an actual cleaning!

Things You’ll Need

  • Gravel siphon or turkey baster
  • Bucket
  • Scrubbing pad or tool
  • Water conditioner
  • Aquarium salt (optional)
  • Aquatic plant fertilizers and/or supplements
  • Freshwater aquatic plants
  • Substrate
  • Fish tank
  • Tank light
  • Filter
  • Heater (optional)
  • Air pump, tubing, and stone

Related Articles

Sources and Citations

  1. ↑ http://www.apifishcare.com/product.php?id=628
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