Set up a Rabbit Cage

Rabbits can make great pets. Before you bring your new rabbit home, you will need to set up a cozy home for it that will work well for a rabbit's unique needs. Learn how to set up a comfortable, safe home for your rabbit, with plenty of room for it to stretch out, play, and huddle down for the night.

Steps

Choosing a Cage and Supplies

  1. Choose a cage or a hutch. Cages are better suited to temporary accommodation because they don't give the rabbit the opportunity to hide. A rabbit that is constantly exposed to view on all sides will quickly feel stressed. Of course, it does help to put a hide or box into the cage so bunny can have some privacy.
    • However, although a hutch may be better, they are heavy and cumbersome and not well suited to indoors.
    • Traditional hutches are made from wood, with chicken wire mesh over the door so the rabbit can see out. Wood remains an excellent choice because it has good thermal properties, keeping the wind, rain, and chill out in the winter, but also providing shade in the summer.
    • A wire cage is fine for temporary accommodation, such as when bunny spends time in the family room, but you don't trust the rabbit not to chew electrical wires. When using a wire cage, make sure the rabbit has a hide or a box, where they can go to feel safe when they need to sleep.
  2. Pick out a cage that is the right size for your rabbit. Rabbits vary widely in size from the tiny mini-lop that weighs just 1.3 kg (2 - 3 lb), to the huge Flemish giant which at up to 10 kg (22 lb). The floor area and height of the cage is going to vary depending on the breed of rabbit your select. When buying the cage, always consider the adult weight and size of the rabbit.[1]
    • As a rule of thumb, the cage needs to be tall enough for the rabbit to sit upright on their back legs. The length should be greater than three bunny (adult) bunny hops, and the width two (adult) bunny hops.
    • Rabbits live in burrows and only feel truly safe and let themselves rest, if they are enclosed, and preferably in the dark. Thus, it helps if your cage has two rooms to it, one of which offers complete privacy.[2]
    • For two small rabbits the minimum recommended size is 150cm long by 60 cm wide, and 60 cm tall. If the rabbits are larger, this rises to at least 185 cm long by 90cm wide, by 90 cm tall. Of course, always base your calculations on the largest, rather than the smallest, rabbit.[1][2]
    • If you are bringing home a baby bunny, take into account that it will grow over the next few months, so choose a cage that can accommodate its adult size.
    • Many "rabbit cages" sold in pet stores are actually much too small. If the pet store doesn't have a good selection, check online or get creative and make your own.
  3. Make sure your cage has a solid floor. Many rabbits suffer from a condition called pododermatitis, which is where they develop pressure sores on the back of the hind legs from sitting on hard floors or wet bedding. The wire mesh of a cage is totally unsuitable flooring and very uncomfortable for the rabbit.[3]
    • If your cage has a wire bottom, you will need to cover this with something, such as a piece of plywood, then cover that with bedding.[3]
    • Pododermatitis affects the skin overlying the bone of the hock, where it's in contact with the ground.
  4. Choose a cage with sides made of wire. A cage with wire sides and top give your rabbit plenty of airflow and it'll be quite easy to clean. However, make sure the floor is not just made of wire. Your rabbit should not be forced to sit or stand on wire meshing for long periods of time.
    • Consider an open-top cage, like a puppy pen. This will give the rabbit more freedom to move around and will feel less confining.[4] Just make sure it is at least {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} high, so the rabbit cannot jump out.
    • If you want to create an outdoor hutch for your rabbit, the specifications are different. See How to Build a Rabbit Hutch for more information.
  5. Make sure the bottom of the cage has a urine guard. The bottom of the cage, the tray, should have high, solid sides. This is because rabbits tend to spray when they urinate.
    • This is also useful to stop the rabbit spreading straw all over the floor.
    • If your cage does not have a guard, and you decide to improvise and make your own, use materials such as cardboard, which won't hurt the rabbit if they chew on them. You will need to replace it often but it will not make your rabbit sick.
  6. Pick out a rabbit litter box. Purchasing a litter box and training your rabbit to use it is very important if you are having your rabbit live indoors. A triangular litter box to place in the corner of the cage or pen is very convenient.[5]
    • Your rabbit may not use the litter box right away, so be patient. You will need to litter box train them. Eventually, it will learn to go there every time.
  7. Purchase food bowls and a water supply for the cage. Use heavy flat-bottomed bowls for food that are difficult to tip over. Provide a hay rack but sit it as low to the ground as possible, as rabbits do not like stretching their heads up.[2]

Choosing a Location For Your Cage

  1. Set up the cage in a well-ventilated area that doesn't get too hot or too cold. Don't use a dusty or dirty room such as an attic or basement, because dust aggravates the rabbit's delicate lungs.
    • The rabbit also needs natural light. Make sure the sun does not pound them but get some diffused sunlight.
    • Be aware that rabbits don't like loud noises or sudden movement, so setting the cage next to a tumbler dryer could cause the rabbit unnecessary stress.
    • A spare bedroom would be a good choice, as long as you make sure to interact the rabbit on a regular basis.
  2. Make sure the rabbit will be safe from predators. Also, take care that other household pets, such as cats and dogs, cannot worry the rabbit. Rabbits are a prey species and find the close presence of carnivores very unsettling!
    • If you have dogs, try to raise the cage off the floor. The rabbits will feel very intimidated by a dog sniffing round them on floor level.
  3. Choose a room where your rabbit can roam around. Rabbits should not stay confined in their cages all the time. You will need to let your rabbit out to get some exercise. It is easiest to put the cage in a room where you will not mind having your rabbit hop around and explore.
    • Make sure the room is free of wires, sharp edges, small toys, and other objects that could harm your rabbit.

Setting Up Your Cage

  1. Line the cage with bedding. A rabbit needs a thick cushion of bedding to protect their legs from sores. The bigger the rabbit, the deeper the bedding.
    • Materials commonly used for bedding include straw, sawdust or hay. Of these, straw is best because it is springy and soft, plus in winter it holds heat. Straw is also safe if the rabbit chews it.
    • For a regular sized bunny provide at least 5 - 6 inches of bedding, more for bigger animals.
    • Although your rabbit may be house-trained, it's not advisable to line the cage with carpet, as this could cause a bowel obstruction if chewed.
    • Spot clean the bedding every day, by scooping out areas soiled with urine or pellets, then replacing with clean straw. Ideally, clean the cage out completely once a week.
    • Rabbits will chew a blanket or bed, so it's better to provide an especially deep and snuggly pile of straw within a box or hide.
  2. Fill the litter box with a layer of newspaper, nontoxic litter, and a top layer of hay. Change out the hay daily, and change the rest of the litter box weekly.[5]
    • Do not use cat litter, especially clumping litter, as it can be fatal to rabbits.
  3. Provide food for your rabbit. Grass is the ideal food for rabbits, and hay is an excellent substitute. Where possible, feed your rabbit on hay alone, that way their teeth will be kept in perfect order and they won't become overweight.
    • Give a daily treat of fresh fruit or vegetables, but try to give something different every day to create a balanced diet.
    • If you have more than one rabbit, provide one bowl for each bunny, plus a spare. Situate the bowls around the cage so that one rabbit cannot monopolize all the bowls.[2]
  4. Provide water for your rabbit. Bowls of water can easily be tipped over or soiled with pellets, so sipper drinkers are preferable. Change the water every day so that it is always fresh. Also wash the drinker daily, and never use a drinker that is discolored by algae.
    • For more than one rabbit, provide a drinker at either end of the cage.
  5. Put some fun toys in the cage. Toys provide enrichment and entertainment for rabbits. Provide toys for the rabbit to play with, such as cardboard tubes or cardboard boxes with holes cut in them. Some rabbits will even play with toy such as a ball with a bell inside.
    • Rabbits love to chew so provide some sturdy branches of orchard woods (apple, pear, plum, cherry) or you can purchase commercial rabbit chews from a pet store.[2]
    • When choosing toys, make sure they are rabbit-safe. A good toy is a cardboard box filled with shredded paper and dry hay. Your bunny would love to dig through that.



Tips

  • Many rabbits can be trained to be "house bunnies" and enjoy the freedom of roaming the house on their own.
  • You should keep your rabbit in its cage for the first three to four days.
  • Do not play with newborn rabbits outside of its cage for around 2-3 weeks.

Related Articles

Sources and Citations

  1. ↑ 1.0 1.1 http://www.bluecross.org.uk/2147-2815/housing-and-companionship-for-your-rabbits.html
  2. ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 Textbook of Rabbit Medicine . Frances Harcourt-Brown. Publisher: Butterworth-Heinemann
  3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 http://rabbit.org/faq-housing/
  4. ↑ http://best4bunny.com/bunny-care/housing-ideas/#1
  5. ↑ 5.0 5.1 http://www.rabbitnetwork.org/articles/basics.shtml#house

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