Set up a White's (Dumpy) Tree Frog Enclosure
Do you want to purchase the famous White's (dumpy or Australian) tree frog? Do you want to give him/her an interesting natural environment to have fun in? Before you purchase your frog, it is important that you have the correct equipment to keep it alive. As this type of frog comes from Tropical Queensland, it is apparent that your frog will need a tropical environment. This article will teach you how to properly set up an enclosure for your tree frog.
Contents
Steps
- Purchase your enclosure. Choose one specifically designed for keeping amphibians. If you're on a budget, a glass aquarium is a good substitute (see method 2) as specialized amphibian enclosures can cost up to $223.37 (£300). Check to see if there are any gaps bigger than 3mm (0.11811 inches) as frogs can escape through very tight spaces. If any gaps are found, silicone or plasticine can be used to seal them.
- Get a backing for the glass. A backing can be as simple as an opaque sheet of plastic. This will give your frog a sense of security. Anything from solid black to a picture of the Amazon will work. You will need to secure the background with clear tape. Covering two panels of the glass will give your frog a place to hide during the day.
- Purchase equipment for the frog. Get a UVA bulb with a timer set to make the bulb stay on for 8 hours a day. The timer will turn the light on and off for you (you will need to replace the bulb every 6-8 months). A heater is mandatory in all climates of the world as it keeps the enclosure at a steady temperature (an electric thermostat will turn it on and off for you). An optional accessory is a mister (humidifier) keeps the enclosure moist. However, this can be substituted with a spray bottle of dechlorinated water (filtered drinking water is best).
- Buy a substrate for the bottom of the enclosure. Gravel and moss are the most popular (gravel stays the cleanest). However, some people choose dirt which is not preferable for tree frogs, as they do not like getting dirty. If dirt is the only option, do not use potting soil. This type of soil is poisonous for frogs and can kill them. Frogs absorb chemicals and minerals from anything they touch. Keep in mind that lighter-colored substrate will make your frog very green whereas darker substrate will make him/her a chocolate brown. When you purchase your substrate (if it is gravel or moss), you must first rinse it. This will stop any fine particles from sticking to your frog and drying him out. Rinse your substrate in a new strainer. (Avoid using a strainer that has previously been washed in soap.) Then pour it in and spread it into the desired landscape.
- Create a body of water for your frog. A shallow water bowl is the best as this makes sure your frog does not accidentally drown. Tree frogs can't swim well since they lack webbed feet like regular frogs. You should include rocks, sticks, logs, etc. in the bowl to help them climb out if they need to. You can have your water bowl sitting flush with the substrate, or you can just place on top (this will make it easier to clean later). It is important that you clean the bowl out every second day as the frog will drink from this water (frogs absorb water through their skin instead of drinking through their mouths).
- Include tall decorations for your frog. They are called "tree" frogs (not "ground" frogs) for a reason. It is important not to choose anything sharp as frogs have delicate skin and can get cut easily. A sturdy piece of driftwood may be used as this will provide a hiding place for your frog. A 3D background may be used as this has a similar purpose to the driftwood (make sure you measure your enclosure's interior before buying your background).
- Buy or find food for your frog. Varying their diet is important - a mix of crickets, cockroaches, earth worms, waxworms, mealworms, and wingless fruit flies can be a balanced diet for your frog. It is important that you feed your frog food so you can keep them as healthy as possible. Feeding your frog two crickets, one cockroach, one earthworm, four wingless fruit flies, or three waxworms/mealworms every second day is best as this ensures your frog will not become obese. For the non-worms, they should be let free inside the frog enclosure so the frog has to for them (giving him/her exercise).
- Select a tree frog to adopt. There are three main sizes: froglet, juvenile, and adult. Obviously, the adults are biggest and require more food. The easiest to care for are the juveniles as they are far easier to find than froglets and require nowhere near as much food as the adults. Adding your frog to his/her enclosure is as easy as putting the container you adopted them in into the enclosure and opening it (let the frog jump out in its own time). After the frog has moved out of the container, remove the empty container.
- Enjoy your new froggy friend! Clean the enclosure every second week, mist the enclosure, etc. Read How to Care for Green Tree Frogs for more information.
Tips
- Get a cricket enclosure if you will be feeding the frog crickets.
Warnings
- Don't put a large frog and a small frog together! The smaller one will end up as a meal!
