Tape and Float Drywall
There are several different types of joints that need taping, bedding, and floating after handing drywall. These joints are the beveled, finished edges and cut ends of the drywall. Most are flat and not beveled — for instance, the inside corner joints, outside corner joints, and nail or screw holes left from securing the drywall. Taping, bedding and floating out the joint compound on drywall is something even the average home owner with the right tools and instructions.
Steps
- Cover the nail or screw holes in the drywall. Start with the bottom holes and move upward.
- Fill the holes with premixed drywall joint compound using a 2-inch (5.1 cm) putty knife.
- Allow the putty to dry, then sand down the rough points. Apply a second thin (but wider) coat using a 6-inch (15.3 cm) putty or taping knife, floating out or feathering the edges.
- Sand and apply a third thin coat. Use a 6-to-9 inch (5.3 to 23 cm) putty knife. Sand the last coat down after drying so you can feather the edges.
- Begin taping the tapered (or beveled) edges of the drywall joints.
- Apply a coat of joint compound over the area about 1/8 inch (3.18 mm) thick, filling up the cracks in the process.
- Dampen a piece of the paper joint tape. Fiber mesh tape is easier to use, but it is weaker than paper tape.
- Begin at the bottom and work the paper over the joint and into the compound using a 4-inch (10.2 cm) putty or taping knife. Continue until you have covered the entire joint with one coat of joint compound and tape. Allow this to dry.
- Apply a wider, second coat of compound over the area. Use a 6-inch (15.3 cm) putty knife. Widen the width of the each following layer until you have filled up the dip, or beveled, edge in the wallboard and the joint appears to be flat.
- Cover the second coat with a final thin layer of joint compound. Only do this once the second coat is dry. Float out the joint, feathering the edges 12 inches (32 cm) on either side. A 9-inch (23 cm) or wider putty knife works best for this layer.
- Allow the coat to dry. Begin to smooth down any rough points with 100 grit sandpaper. Next, further feather out the edges of the dry compound.
- Apply the same 3 coats as above at joints with raw edges. These are not beveled edges — you're looking for edges that have been cut. You need to widen out each coat of joint compound, floating outward so you feather the edges. The wider coverage will help prevent the appearance of a bump (or hump) in the flat wall.
- Apply tape. Float out the inside corner of the drywall using tape that has been folded in half lengthwise and embedded the same way as a flat joint.
- Fill the inside corner joint with compound.
- Take folded tape and mash it into the corner with half of the tape on each side of the joint. The folded edge should be tight in the corner. Using a special corner tape knife will help. Begin at the bottom and work up.
- Spread a second coat over the taped corner joint after it has dried. Use the corner knife in the seam and a 6-inch (15.2 cm) putty knife on each side as you float out the edges.
- Allow the putty to dry. Next, spread a third and final coat over the corner joint. Use the corner knife over the seam and a 9-to-12-inch (23 to 30.6 cm) putty knife on each side. Again, make sure you float out the edges. Allow it to dry and give it a final sanding (further flattening out the edges).
- Use a reinforced metal corner for outside corners and door openings. Don't use tape as you normally would. This is recommended to prevent chipping when the corner is bumped or hit when passed by.
- Connect the metal corner bead with staples or screws. Now, apply 2 thin coats of joint compound over the mesh until it is level with the metal corner bead.
- Float out the edges, using a 6-inch (15.3 cm) knife on the first coat and a 9-inch (23 cm) knife on the last coat.
- Permit the area to dry between coats of joint compound. Sand down the rough points and feather the edges.
- Dampen the paper tape by dipping it in a bucket of water. This will help it stick to the joint compound.
Tips
- Use small quantities of joint compound in a mud pan or mortar board to prevent drying the entire bucket.
- Use premixed joint compound. It is easier to use and store between applications.
- Clean the inside of the bucket of joint compound when you finish for the day. Cover the surface of the remaining compound with a light layer of water to keep the surface from drying out.
- Before any of the taping can begin, make sure all screws and or nails have been set below wallboard. Nothing is more frustrating than taping a joint or "angle" corner and having to remove high or dead screws.
- The most important part of taping is putting enough compound on the wall before pulling down the tape. If a crack or space is between the wallboard or you see wallboard through the compound, you will have problems. This is called a blister.
- Apply compound with a four-inch taping knife and wipe down the tape semi-tight.
- Tape goes on directionally. As it is spooled from the roll to the wall from the bottom of the roll, the correct side is on your fingers — not your thumb! When you fold the tape for the angles, the correct way will be a snap. The wrong way will run the fold off to one side. Some companies print "this side towards wall" on the tape to help.
- On sidewalls and ceilings, the butt joints should be taped first, room by room, as flats are taped.
- Corner beads should have three coats; tape, block and finish coats.
- Screws should be spotted three times, then apply joint compound and wipe clean as you run angles on tape, block and finish coats.
- One day should suffice for drying time on tape coat.
Warnings
- Always wear a dust mask and safety glasses when sanding.
Things You'll Need
- Paper or mesh tape
- Joint compound
- 2-inch (5.1 cm), 4-inch (10.2 cm), 6-inch (15.3 cm), 9-inch (23 cm) and optional 12-inch (30.6 cm) putty or joint knives
- Mud bucket or mortar board
- 100 grit sandpaper
- Sanding pad mounted to extension pole
- Dust mask
- Safety glasses
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