Test Ph in a Fish Tank

Testing the pH in your fish tank is one of the most important elements of keeping a clean and healthy environment for your fish. Testing the water will help you determine if the pH is optimal for your fish to thrive and live long. But don’t worry – it’s not as much work as it might seem, and with a little forethought and some work, your fish will be on the road to live long and prosper!

Steps

Selecting Your Kit

  1. Visit a store or an online retailer. Most large box stores and pet stores have at least a small selection of pH testers available. Try to choose the store or website with the largest selection possible. This way, you’ll be able to browse through a number of different brands and find the tester that is best for you. Consider these factors:
    • Price. If you’re short on cash, you might consider an inexpensive option. Kit prices will range from $5 to $100 or more.
    • Quality. Some brands are better than others, and will give you a more accurate reading of your pH. Consider this before purchasing.
    • Number of uses you will get from the kit. You’ll probably be testing your tank often, so consider this along with price and quality before you purchase.
  2. Understand the difference between a “high range” and a “low range” tester. Test kits are designed to provide specific read outs on a certain range of pH. You might need one or both depending on what kind of fish you have.
    • Most freshwater tanks should have a pH of between 6.5 and 7.5.
    • Most saltwater tanks should have a pH higher than 8.0.
    • Low range kits max out at a reading of 7.6. If you are testing with a low range kit, and get a reading of 7.6, your actual pH might be higher.
    • High range kits will measure from 7.6 up to 8.8.
    • Consider buying both so you can have an accurate reading.[1][2]
  3. Choose your pH tester. There are a lot of different pH tests and kits available for the consumer. There are, though, two main kinds of pH testers. You choice will depend on price, experience, and your level of commitment to your aquarium.
    • Digital tester. With the digital tester, you calibrate it using a supplied solution, and then dip it in your tank to get the reading. Digital testers give very precise readings and are sometimes more reliable (if you calibrate properly). They are also more expensive ($60 to $100), but might save you in the long run.
    • Chemical tester. This kit requires that you take a sample of the water and test it with chemicals supplied in the kit. You then dip a strip in the sample, and the strip turns a color. Afterwards, you compare the strip to a supplied color chart. These kits are multi-use and are less expensive ($10 to $30). Keep in mind that they are sometimes less reliable and less precise.
    • You might also be able to find a strip chemical test in which you dip litmus paper or a special strip into the water and then compare it to a color chart.
    • You can also use both chemical testers and digital testers to double check yourself and make sure you are getting an accurate result. This is the best solution if you have invested a lot of money in your aquarium.[3]
  4. Open your tester and inspect the contents. You need to familiarize yourself with your pH tester before you use it. Open the kit, take stock of the items, and read the directions.
    • Chemical testers will include a color card, little glass test tube, and a bottle with pH test solution.
    • Strip chemical tests will include strips and a color card.
    • Digital testers will include the digital meter and packets of calibration solution.
    • Digital testers might not come with batteries.

Testing Your Aquarium

  1. Determine the desired pH of your aquarium. There is no normal pH for all fish. Different fish thrive in different environments. But there are some important ranges you need to consider.
    • Saltwater fish thrive with a pH of 8.0 to 8.3.
    • Many tropical fish will do fine from 6.5 to 7.5.
    • Freshwater fish do well between 5.5 and 7.5.
    • Depending on the fish, having a pH out of these ranges will be extremely dangerous and will threaten the life of your fish. Talk to the person at your local pet store about desired pHs for specific fish.
    • Keep in mind that pH is not static. The pH of your tank will change over time and over the course of a single day.
    • pH levels below 6 indicates the possibility that your tank might soon become a dangerous and toxic environment for your fish.[4]
  2. Try out your digital tester, if that’s the test method you chose. Digital testers are fairly easy to use. After you’ve calibrated them, it should be no work at all – you will just stick the tip of the tester in the water and take your reading. Here are the steps to calibrate and then test your tank:
    • Power up your tester and make sure it works.
    • Pour the calibration liquid that comes with the tester in a glass bowl.
    • Stick the tip of the tester in the calibration liquid and wait the specified amount of time per your directions.
    • See your reading.
    • Rinse the tester.
    • Apply tester to your aquarium to see pH level.
  3. Use your chemical test, if you bought one. The chemical test might seem complicated, but if you follow directions it should only take you a few minutes. Once you’ve done it a few times, it will be no trouble at all, and it might even be fun.
    • Take out your little glass test tube, color card, and pH test solution.
    • Dip the test tube in the tank and fill it up to the 5ml line.
    • Grab your pH test solution, and carefully squirt 3 drops (or follow your directions) into the test tube with the water in it.
    • Put the little snap tight lid on the tube, and shake it for 1-3 minutes straight.
    • After shaking the tube, get out your color card and under a bright light, compare the color of your water to the colors on the card. Each color will represent a pH level.
    • If you have a strip test, simply dip the strip in the water, wait a minute, and compare it to a color card. Each color will represent a pH level.[5]
  4. Test your aquarium and test often. If you test often, you’ll know if the water is safe for your fish and plants.
    • Test twice a week. This is the best way to monitor the pH level of your water.
    • Test twice a day if you have recently done a water change. This way, you’ll know if all the steps you’ve taken to achieve a certain pH level are actually working.
    • Test after you’ve introduced anything new into the tank. Sometimes new plants, rocks, and other items will change the pH level of your water. Also, if you’ve added a substantial amount of new fish, check your pH.[2]
  5. Prevent your pH from leaving your desired range. Maintenance and prevention are two of the most important things when it comes to achieving your desired pH level. There are certain things you should do take into consideration:
    • Add new water on a regular basis. New water will help maintain acceptable pH levels.
    • Never replace your water entirely. This will upset the balance between chemicals, bacteria, and pH that you’ve been working to achieve.
    • Aerate your water to maintain healthy levels of oxygen. This will help keep your desired pH.
    • Add solutions and other conditioners in order to maintain a healthy pH level for your fish.
    • Remove dead fish or plants to avoid bacteria accumulation, or an increase in ammonia or nitrate levels. This will all lead to an unhealthy pH level.[6][1][4]

Tips

  • If you can find them there are also dip stick tests. These you simply dip in your fish tank water and read the color. They are quick, though more expensive per test, however there is very little mess
  • If your pH kit is different than these instructions, follow the instructions in the kit.

Warnings

  • Any time you attempt to change pH levels in your tank, remember that fish are very sensitive to pH changes and if it's done too rapidly, it can cause extreme stress or even death. Fish should not be exposed to a change in pH greater than 0.3 in a 24-hour period.
  • Children should only test the pH under the supervision of an adult.

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Sources and Citations