Belay for Rock Climbing

Belaying is the technique of controlling the rope so that a falling climber does not fall very far. The person climbing is said to be on belay. Belaying is a critical part of the climbing system.

Using one of these belaying methods the belayer can hold the entire weight of the climber with relatively little force or strength.

There are three types of belaying in climbing: direct belaying, semi-direct belaying and indirect belaying

Steps

  1. Master Direct Belaying
    • The load of a fall is transferred to an anchor without the weight first being taken by the belayer. This is common when the belayer is above the climber, such as after the leader has reached the summit and the second climber is coming from below.
    • Choose the correct and 100 % safe anchor. A sling on a solid spike, rock or tree is commonly used.
    • Do not use a tree or rock if its sturdiness is questionable.
    • A friction device such as an Italian hitch is better in a direct belay.
    • A belay device may not work from this angle. The belayer is positioned in front of the anchor with a top rope when operating the direct belay.
  2. Master the Semi-direct Belay
    • The most common method of belaying in either traditional or sport rock climbing.
    • Tie to anchors from the front of the harness and belay from the rope tie-in loop.
    • In a fall, the weight is transferred through the belay device and the rope to the anchors. The belayer will only experience a small portion of the load.
  3. Master The Indirect Belay
    • The belayer takes the load in the waist but is also supported by anchors.
    • This method is also used if you attach to the anchors and belay from the front. You should never attach an anchor to the back of your harness as it can result in serious injury if you have to catch a big fall.
    • This system can be uncomfortable for the belayer as they take the whole load in their waist. This is commonly used when the anchors are weak.
  4. Master the Fall
    • Using a mixture of belaying angle and hand-grip on the rope, a climber can be lowered gently by the belayer to a point where climbing can begin again, or to the safety of the ground. In a fall, the climber is not always able to give a warning and the belayer must be ready at all times.

Tips

  • Take proper precautions when belaying.
  • The belayer must be attentive at all times and feed rope at an appropriate pace. The belayer must anticipate when the leader needs slack or the rope tightened.
  • Historically, belaying in climbing meant simply that the belayer would take a wrap of rope around his or her waist; friction between rope and the belayer's body was used to arrest a fall. This technique, known as the hip belay, is still sometimes used by climbers needing to move quickly on low-angle terrain, but on vertical rock it is no longer used as it is less reliable and more apt to injure a belayer stopping a long fall.
  • Take a belay class at your local rock climbing gym.

Warnings

  • Self-belaying is possible as well, but as it is an advanced technique beyond the scope of this article.

Things You'll Need

  • One thick (UIAA or CE single rated) rope (8.9mm - 12mm; most are about 10.2mm) or two thinner (UIAA or CE Half/Double or Twin rated) ropes (7.7mm - 9mm; most are about 8.5mm)
  • Belay device or a knot called a münter hitch: useful for both abseiling (rappelling) and belaying

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References

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