Bend Pipe

You can bend pipe and tubing in one of several methods, depending on what you plan to use the bent pipe or tube for. The problem in bending pipe is figuring out where and how much to bend the pipe. While many bending tools come with a set of instructions for figuring out such things as bend allowances and bend deductions, they are often written in a complex manner and assume a knowledge of mathematics that intimidates many users. While it's not possible to completely eliminate the math, it is possible to plan how to bend a piece of pipe in such a way that figuring the bending angle is simplified and so that the only math needed is simple arithmetic. The method described below is not simple, but with practice, you can master it.

Steps

Selecting a Bending Tool

1. Choose the right bending tools for your needs. There are 6 main bending methods. Each is best suited to a particular type of pipe.
   • Ram style bending, also called incremental bending, is usually used for putting large bends in light-gauge metal, such as electrical conduit. In this method, the pipe is held down at 2 external points and the ram pushes on the pipe at its central axis to bend it. Bends tend to deform into an oval shape at both the inside and outside of the bend.
   • Rotary draw bending is used to bend pipe for use as handrails or ornamental iron, as well as car chassis, roll cages, and trailer frames, as well as heavier conduit. Rotary draw bending uses 2 dies: a stationary counter-bending die and a fixed radius die to form the bend. It is used when the pipe needs to have a good finish and constant diameter throughout its length.
   • Mandrel bending is used to make stock and custom exhaust pipes, dairy tubing, and heat exchanger tubing. In addition to the dies used in rotary draw bending, mandrel bending uses a flexible support that bends with the pipe or tubing to make sure the pipe interior isn't deformed.
   • Induction bending heats the area to be bent with an electric coil, and then the pipe or tube is bent with dies similar to those used in rotary draw bending. The metal is immediately cooled with water to temper it. It produces tighter bends than straight rotary draw bending.
   • Roll bending, also called cold bending, is used whenever large bends are necessary in the pipe or tubing, such as in awning supports, barbecue grill frames, or drum rolls, as well as in most construction work. Roll benders use 3 rolls on individual shafts to roll the pipe through as the top roller pushes down to bend the pipe. (Because the rolls are arranged in a triangle, this method is sometimes called pyramid bending.)
   • Hot bending, in contrast, is used considerably in repair work. The metal is heated at the place where it is to be bent to soften it.

Making a Right Angle Bend

1. Bend a test pipe at a 90-degree angle. Not only will this familiarize you with how much force you need to apply to operate your bender, but this pipe will serve as a reference for future bends.
   • To check the angle of your pipe, lay it against a carpenter's square with the outer bend facing the corner of the square. Both ends of the pipe should just touch the square's sides and run parallel to them.
2. Find the place where the bend in the pipe starts. You should see or feel a small flat spot or distortion at the place where the bend starts and where it ends.
3. Mark the ends of the bend with a permanent marker. Draw the line completely around the pipe.
4. Lay the pipe against the square again to find the length of the pipe in the bend. Note the place on each side of the square where the pipe's markings touch. These should be the same distance from the inside corner of the square. Add these lengths together.
   • If the markings on each end of the pipe bend touch the square at 6 inches (15 cm) from the inside corner of the square, the total length of the bent section of the pipe is 12 inches (30 cm).
5. Find the place on your bending die where the bend begins. Place the bent tube back in your bender with the die used to bend it and note where on the die the mark on the pipe lines up. Mark this place with a dot of paint or by notching the metal with a file.
   • If you have more than one die (for different diameters of pipe), make a test bend for each die, as each diameter will require a different amount of metal to make a 90-degree bend.
   • Once you know how much pipe is needed to form the bend, you can calculate how long a piece of pipe you need by adding this figure (called the bend deduction) to the vertical and horizontal lengths of the pipe.

Making Multiple Bends

1. Measure out the space your bent pipe will occupy. If you're making a roll bar for a dune buggy that will occupy a space 60 inches (150 cm) wide by 50 inches (125 cm) high, make a rectangle with these dimensions on a clean space of concrete floor with a piece of chalk.
2. Divide the rectangle with a centerline. The centerline should bisect the longer (width) sides of the rectangle.
3. Measure in from the top corners of the rectangle to where the horizontal portion of the bent pipe begins. If the top of the roll bar should run only 40 inches (100 cm), subtract this length from the width for the bottom, then measure half the distance in from each of the upper corners. This works out to a difference of 20 inches (50 cm), half of which is 10 inches (25 cm), which is the distance to measure in. Mark this distance in from each of the top corners.
4. Measure from the bottom corners to where the lower bend begins. If the distance from the bottom of the roll bar to the first bend is to be 40 inches (100 cm), measure and mark this distance up from each side of the bottom corners.
5. Connect the markings where the bends will be made, using a straightedge or ruler. You can measure the connecting lines with a ruler.
   • In this example, the diagonal line connecting the marks on the horizontal and vertical lines is about 14 inches (70 cm) long.
6. Lay your 90-degree bend pipe inside the top line of your frame. Lay it so that the horizontal straight end touches the inside of the upper horizontal line.
7. Slide the pipe until it touches the diagonal you drew.
8. Mark the place where the bend mark intersects the frame line.
9. Rotate the pipe so the other bend mark intersects the diagonal. Mark this place on the diagonal.
10. Repeat the last 4 steps for the other upper corner.
11. Calculate the total length of pipe needed. Add together the measurements from the bottom corners to the first marks, the lengths of pipe between the lower bend, and the length between the upper bend.
    • In the above example, the vertical portions of the roll bar will each be 40 inches (100 cm) long, the diagonal portions will each be 14 inches (70 cm) long, and the horizontal portion will be 40 inches long. The total minimum length of pipe will be 40 + 14 + 40 + 14 + 40 inches (100 + 70 + 100 + 70 + 100 cm), or 144 inches (440 cm) long.
12. Cut the pipe. Although the minimum length of pipe needed is 144 inches, it's a good idea to allow for error, add at least 4 inches (10 cm), making the total length 148 inches (450 cm).
13. Find and mark the center of the pipe. You'll work from this point outward.
14. Lay the pipe against the top line of your layout frame, aligning the pipe's center with the center line. Mark on the pipe where the upper bends are to start and finish using the marks on the frame.
    • You may also want to mark the direction of your bends by putting arrows on the pipe pointing outward.
15. Make each of the upper bends with your bending tool. Be sure the pipe's seam is to the inside when you bend; this prevents twisting or kinking during the bending process.
    • To ensure your bender is set to the correct angle, you can prepare a reference tool of 2 flat pieces of metal whose ends are attached to a pivot. Bend this tool to the angle indicated on your frame, and then match the bending angle of your bending tool to this angle.
    • After making each bend, lay the pipe against your frame to check that the angle of the bend is correct.
16. Make each of the lower bends with your bending tool. Follow the same procedures as outlined in the previous step.
17. Cut off any excess from the ends of the bent pipe.

Tips

• Start with simple pipe bending projects before tackling something more complicated. You may have to make several practice bends before you become comfortable with this technique.
• Allow sufficient workspace for your equipment. Metal pipe will spring back somewhat from being bent, so you need to allow room for it to happen so that you can get out of the way when necessary. You'll want a minimum of 10 feet (3 m) clearance, and 20 feet (6 m) is better.
• Spray the floor around your bending tool with a spray adhesive to provide extra foot traction when bending the pipe.

Warnings

• Regularly inspect your bending tool and dies for wear after bending pipe. Even pins and bolts of 1/2 to 5/8 inch (1.25 to 1.56 cm) in diameter will bend and fail after a while.
• Bending pipe 2 inches (5 cm) or more in diameter is best left to a professional.

Things You'll Need

• Length of pipe
• Bending tool and dies
• Flat, clean floor or large table
• Chalk (or sheet of butcher paper and pencil if using a table)
• Carpenter's square
• Pipe cutter
• Assistant (for long, heavy pipe)

Related Articles

• Bend Aluminum Pipe
• Bend Electrical PVC Pipe on the Fly
• Bend Copper Tubing
• Bend EMT Conduit

Sources and Citations

• http://metalgeek.com/archives/2005/05/01/000047.php
• http://www.oceanmachinery.com/how-to-bend-pipe-and-tube.htm
• http://pirate4x4.com/tech/bendin_tube/
• http://www.oceanmachinery.com/how-to-bend-pipe-and-tube.htm

See also

• Blue Steel
• Clean a Pipe Without Alcohol
• Tell Gold from Brass
• Solder Stainless Steel
• Cut Aluminum
• Cut PVC Pipe
• Prevent Frozen Water Pipes
• Spray Paint Metal
• Cut Steel
• Wrap Pipes for Cold Weather

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What links here

• Bend Aluminum Pipe
• Bend EMT Conduit
• Bend Electrical PVC Pipe on the Fly
• Bend Steel Tubing
• Cut Aluminum