Build a Horse Jump 1 Pair Schooling Standard

This is the basic method for building a schooling jump standard. Tools needed are listed in the Things You'll Need below.

Steps

  1. Cut your 2X8 8' board into 8 equal lengths of 12" each. These will be the feet. (If you'd like, cut a triangle off one corner of each board. This creates the fancy tapered look on the feet. It's not necessary, though.)
  2. Screw the feet onto the bottom of the post. To do this, make the end of the first 12" board flush with the back edge of the post. Then the second 12" board will butt against the first. And they'll continue around this way, whirly-gig fashion. Use four screws for each foot.
  3. Create holes to accommodate the jump cups. This is trickier than it may seem! The holes must be *completely level and centered* or your jump cups won't fit. Companies that make jump standards use a drill press which automatically makes a level hole that's centered. But since you're using a hand held drill, you'll need to level the holes manually. First, make sure your post is standing on a level, flat surface. Your post must be as level as possible. Measure up the post 12" from the ground and make a mark in the center of the post. Using the level, draw a horizontal line through the mark and continue it around all four sides of the post. Repeat this up the post every 3" until you have 9 lines drawn.
  4. Center the holes. If you have jump cups, use one as a template to make your hole marks on the lines. If you don't have jump cups, keep reading. [If you're using roughly sawn posts (posts that have not been put through a planer and measure closer to 4") the following instructions should offset the holes to the right a bit- so don't worry if the holes don't appear to be dead center of the post. If you make the holes dead center on a roughly sawn post, most cups just won't fit- no way, no how. If your posts measure closer to 3" thick, you can safely make the hole marks in the center.] Measure in from the right side of the post 1 1/2" and make an X on the first line. On the opposite side, on the same line, measure in 1 1/2" from the left side, to give you a straight shot through the post. Repeat the marks up the post.
  5. Start drilling! When drilling the holes go slowly, aim for the X on the back side to try to stay level, and stop often to check your aim. Chances are you'll mess up on the first few, but you'll get the hang of it.
  6. Apply 2-3 coats white exterior house paint for a polished look.



Tips

  • Some drills have a small level built into them. These aren't very reliable as the vibration of the drill creates too much disturbance. It is still recommended to make the leveling lines and marks to make sure you get usable holes.
  • For better stability, lengthen the feet to 16-18". Use 2x6s instead of 2x8s if you prefer a lower-profile look.

Warnings

  • Be careful if you're using PVC pipes as poles. When PVC breaks it creates sharp spears! It's safest to use cedar posts.

Things You'll Need

  • Electric saw (circular or chop)
  • Tape measure, power drill
  • 1/2" drill bit (a long one)
  • Small level
  • Pencil, (2) 4x4 6' pressure treated posts
  • (1) 2X8 8' pressure treated
  • (1) small box 3" deck screws (deck screws are a tad more expensive, but won't deteriorate in pressure treated lumber)
  • (1) pair jump cups.

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