Clean a Fish Tank

Keep your fish happy and healthy by cleaning their tank and adding fresh water once a week. Cleaning an aquarium isn't difficult, especially if you make sure to do it on a schedule so algae and other residue doesn't have time to build up. This article explains how to clean a freshwater or saltwater aquarium.

Steps

Freshwater Aquariums

  1. Get your cleaning supplies ready. Run through your checklist and ensure that you've prepped your tools and your workspace.
    • Properly prepared water in the quantity you'll need to replace.
    • An algae pad for cleaning the glass inside the tank.
    • A large bucket (5 gallons or 10 litres, and bigger) dedicated for this purpose.
    • A simple siphon-type gravel vacuum (NOT a battery-operated gadget).
    • Filter media (cartridges, sponges, carbon packets, and so on) if you're changing the filter this time.
    • Aquarium-safe glass cleaner or a vinegar-based solution.
    • 10% bleach solution in a separate container (optional)
    • Metal or plastic razor blade (optional, be careful with acrylic tanks, as these scratch easier)
    • Also, Make sure that if your fish are pretty picky eaters, you put some water cleaner in with siphoning the water. Siphon half the tank one week, then do the other tank 2-3 weeks later. This will help your fish adjust to a cleaner climate.
  2. Clean the sides of the aquarium with the algae pad. Run it along the glass, scrubbing a little as necessary, to remove algae that is sticking to the aquarium. If you come across a particularly difficult patch of residue, use a razor blade or plastic blade to scrape it off the glass.
    • You might want to wear rubber gloves to complete this job. Make sure they haven't been treated with any chemicals.
    • Do not just use the sponge or scrubber from your kitchen sink or anything that could have the residue of detergent or cleaning chemicals. A clean, tank-only algae pad will prevent harsh chemicals and detergents from getting into your tank.
    • This step can also be done after you take out 10-20% of the water.
  3. Decide how much water you are going to change. If you clean your tank on a regular schedule and if your fish are healthy, changing 10-20% of the water once a week should be plenty. If you have a sick fish, you'll want to change more of the water - at least 25% to 50%.
  4. Siphon out the old water. Start the siphon and direct the old water into a pail, preferably a five-gallon bucket (or larger if necessary). It's best to buy a new bucket and use it only for cleaning your fish tank; residue from soaps or detergents can be harmful to your fish. This means no repurposing the laundry room bucket or the bucket that used to hold your dishwashing cleaning agents.
    • Aquarium siphons can be purchased that hook up to a sink. If you have one of these, read over the instructions on how they work. This type of siphon also prevents water spilling from the bucket. You can also choose the suction of the water and the temperature when filling the tank using the taps.
  5. Clean the gravel. Push the gravel vacuum through the gravel. Fish waste, excess food, and other debris will be sucked into the the vacuum. If you have very small, weak, or delicate fish, you can put a never-worn stocking over the end of the syphon (but be sure the mesh is large enough to get the debris).
    • If you have sand substrate, do not use the vacuum like a shovel. Use just the hose part of the siphon, not the plastic tube, holding it under an inch from the surface to suck up waste without disturbing your sand. You can use your fingers to run through the sand (provided there are no buried animals to disturb)to help gunk float up that might have gotten trapped under shifting sand.
  6. Clean the decorations. Tank decorations need cleaning, too! Excess algae is caused by excess nutrients in the water. You can wipe the decorations off with an algae pad or a never-used soft-bristled toothbrush in the tank water you siphoned out. Avoid the use of soap; it could harm your fishy friend!
    • If you're having difficulty cleaning the decorations, remove them from the tank and soak the items in a 10% bleach solution for 15 minutes. Then pour boiling water over them and let them air dry before replacing them in the tank. Be very careful to remove all bleach, as to not kill your fish.
    • If your decorations are covered in algae, you may want to feed your fish less or change the water more frequently.
    • Having a pleco in larger tanks can prevent algae from growing excessively.
  7. Add fresh water. Replace the water you took out with fresh, treated water at the temperature of the aquarium. A thermometer is the way to verify the temperature. Staying inside the dictated temperature parameters is crucial for the health of your fish.[1] Remember, lukewarm is too hot for most fish.
    • If you use tap or faucet water, conditioning the water to remove heavy metals and other toxins that your fish can't process is a must. The easiest thing to do is plan ahead; an old milk container works great. Fill it up the day before and leave it uncovered; one day will allow the chlorine to evaporate and the water to become room temperature, the same as your tank. If you are impulsive, a drop of Decleor will do the trick. Just make sure the temperature is the same. A significant change in temperature will kill your fish.
    • If the nitrates are astronomically high, you can do a special water change of 50% to 75% with distilled water (not normally recommended because the water is so purified, there are no trace nutritional elements for the fish to soak up). You can also use bottled spring water for water changes (with no conditioner) because this water has none of the bad and all of the good elements.
  8. Consider adding aquarium salt for fresh water. Many fish (including Mollies, guppies and platies) live longer and healthier lives. Fresh water aquarium salt also helps to prevent diseases such as ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis).
  9. Watch the water. Wait a few hours for any cloudiness that remains to dissipate, leaving the water sparkling clear. Although there are water clearing agents on the market, try not to use them. If the water remains cloudy, it's because of an underlying problem and the agent will only mask (not solve) the issue. Don't forget that your fish need some space between the water and the top of the tank, so that they have enough oxygen-carbon dioxide exchange to breathe and so that they can extend their top fin comfortably.
  10. Clean the exterior. Wipe down the outside, including glass, hood, light and tank top. The ammonia fumes from standard cleaners can hurt your fish, so only use solutions that are designated as aquarium-safe. If you'd prefer to make your own cleaner, you can use a vinegar-based solution.
  11. Change the filter cartridge about once a month. The carbon inside of the filter cartridge can become detrimental to your fishes' health if left unchanged. Not much beneficial bacteria lives inside the filter, most is in the gravel, so changing it will not affect the biological filtration in any way. The cartridge can be rinsed off weekly when water changes are performed if it appears to be excessively dirty, but you don't want to lose whatever bacteria does happen to set in in the filter. Rinsing the filter cartridge does not substitute changing it, so it still has to be changed monthly.

Saltwater Aquariums

  1. Get your cleaning supplies ready. Saltwater aquariums have special needs in addition to the basic supplies you'd use for a freshwater aquarium. Gather the following supplies:
    • Properly prepared water in the quantity you'll need to replace.
    • An algae pad for cleaning the glass inside the tank.
    • A large bucket (5 gallons or 10 litres, or bigger) dedicated for this purpose.
    • A simple siphon-type gravel vacuum (NOT a battery-operated gadget).
    • Filter media (cartridges, sponges, carbon packets, and so on) if you're changing the filter this time.
    • Aquarium-safe glass cleaner or a vinegar-based solution.
    • Salt mix.
    • pH strips.
    • A refractometer, hygrometer, or salinity probe.
    • A thermometer.
    • 10% bleach solution in a separate container (optional)
  2. Clean off the algae. Use the algae pad to remove algae residue from the inside of the tank. Use a razor blade or plastic blade to scrape off built-up residue that's difficult to remove.
  3. Siphon out the water. For a saltwater aquarium, change 10% of the water every 2 weeks. This should be sufficient to eliminate nitrates from the water. Turn on the siphon and let the water run into a large bucket.[2]
  4. Clean the gravel. Push the gravel vacuum through the gravel. Fish waste, excess food, and other debris will be sucked into the the vacuum. If you have very small, weak, or delicate fish, you can put a never-worn stocking over the end of the siphon (but be sure the mesh is large enough to get the debris). For sand substrate, use just the hose part of the siphon, not the plastic tube, holding it under an inch from the surface to suck up waste without disturbing your sand.
  5. Clean the decorations. Wipe the decorations off with an algae pad or a never-used soft-bristled toothbrush in the tank water you siphoned out. You can also remove the decorations from the tank and soak the items in a 10% bleach solution for 15 minutes. Then pour boiling water over them and let them air dry before replacing them in the tank.
  6. Check for salt creep. When the salt water evaporates at the top of the aquarium, it will leave behind a crusty residue known as salt creep. Clean it off with an algae sponge and add back the lost water.
  7. Mix a saltwater solution and add it to the tank. Adding water to a saltwater aquarium is a little more involved than the process for a freshwater aquarium. You need to ensure that the temperature, salinity and pH of the water are all within an acceptable range for your fish. Start this process the night before you clean your tank.
    • Buy distilled or reverse osmosis water. You can purchase these at the grocery store. Place the water in a clean plastic bucket, preferably used only for this purpose.
    • Heat the water with a specialized heater, purchased at a pet store.
    • Add the salt mix. One-step salt mixes are available at pet stores. Follow the instructions on how much to add based on how much water you are using. The rule of thumb is 1/2 cup of mix for every gallon of water.
    • Let the water aerate overnight. In the morning, check the salinity with a refractometer, hygrometer, or salinity probe. The ideal reading is between 1.021 and 1.025. Also, check the temperature with a thermometer. For saltwater fish, it should be between 73 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit (23 and 28 degrees Celsius).
  8. Check the temperatures every day. Saltwater fish live in a relatively narrow temperature range. To make sure they're healthy, you'll want to check the temperature of the aquarium on a daily basis.



Tips

  • Make sure not to use any soap, this can poison and kill your fish.
  • Letting the new water sit for a few hours will neutralize the chlorine in your tap, but not the chloramines, which are just as harmful. Do your fish a favor and use a water conditioner. (A hint that the chlorine is still high is if your fish's gills are bright red. This is the chemical burning the gills).
  • If you buy a length of drinking water or food safe hose from home depot, water changes can be easily done using a siphon right out a window. Fittings can be purchased from a hardware supply store to fill your tank back up directly from a sink.
  • Wear an under-shirt or tank top so you don't get sleeves wet.
  • The larger the aquarium, the less maintenance it needs and the more forgiving of mistakes. It also takes longer for parameters change.
  • There's no need to remove your fish from the aquarium during a cleaning.
  • Do not use tap water to wash the filter, as the chlorine and the chloramines can harm your fish.
  • If you have a motor operated filter, you will periodically have to take it apart and clean the gunk out of the moving parts and mechanisms. Don't clean bio wheels.
  • You can put in algae remover with your conditioner to make cleaning decorations and glass less of a hassle. This is also a good time to add liquid plant food (fish-safe, of course!) if you have live plants.
  • Get the right size vacuum for your gravel. If yours is too small, you'll be there all day; if too big, you'll remove too much water before the job is finished.
  • Clean your gravel vacuum with hot (boiling) water after every cleaning. This will ensure that you kill any bacteria or possible disease that may be stagnant in your tank at the time. Plus it makes you feel better if you have to start it by sucking next time.
  • A good percentage of good bacteria live on the filter media, don't be conned by the filter company's by replacing the media every month (£££) - you will be throwing away the tanks the good bacteria, only dispose of the sponges when they are falling apart and maintain them by gently rinsing them in tank water ONLY in a separate container before replacing back into the filter.
  • Try to get used to doing a cleaning without moving the fish. If you absolutely must move them, add Stress+Zyme or Stress+Coat. This helps replace the lost (but needed) slime coat around the fish's body. This scenario is very good example of why you should have a quarantine/hospital tank ready and waiting.

Warnings

  • If you haven't done a large water change in a long time, start slow. Change out a small amount each week. Sudden and large-scale changes to fishes' water can adversely affect the chemistry of the tank and potentially put your fish into shock.
  • Always wash and rinse your hands thoroughly before and after putting your hands into the aquarium or handling its furnishings. Alcoholic hand sanitizer is another option.
  • Never net your fish unnecessarily as it stresses them and disturbs their slime coating. If it IS necessary for any reason, add Stress Coat® or an equivalent product to the water afterward.
  • If you have carbon in your filter, replace it every two weeks or so. After that time, the carbon will leak toxins back into your tank. To replace carbon, dump the carbon out of the cartridge and refill. Don't throw away the cartridge!
  • Never allow anything that potentially has soapy residue on it into your fish tank. This includes hands, hoses and nets.

Things You'll Need

  • Properly prepared water in the quantity you'll need to replace.
  • An algae pad for cleaning the glass inside the tank.
  • A large bucket (5 gallons or 10 litres, and bigger) dedicated for this purpose.
  • A simple siphon-type gravel vacuum (NOT a battery-operated gadget).
  • Filter media (cartridges, sponges, carbon packets, and so on) if you're changing the filter this time.
  • Aquarium-safe glass cleaner or a vinegar-based solution.
  • Fresh water aquarium salt (recommended for fresh water aquariums)
  • Salt mix (for saltwater)
  • pH strips (for saltwater)
  • Refractometer, hygrometer, or salinity probe (for saltwater)
  • Thermometer (necessary for freshwater and saltwater)
  • 10% bleach solution in a separate container (optional)
  • Metal or plastic razor blade (optional)
  • SafeStart
  • A net (just in case)
  • Towels for when you inevitably splash on yourself or the wall
  • Water conditioner

Related Articles

Sources and Citations

  1. ↑ http://www.firsttankguide.net/waterchange.php
  2. ↑ http://www.ratemyfishtank.com/articles/54
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