Climb a Mountain

Mountain climbing is viewed by some as an extreme sport, while for others it is simply an exhilarating pastime that offers the ultimate challenge of strength, endurance, and sacrifice. It can be highly dangerous, even fatal, especially when the climber is out of his or her depth, or simply gets overwhelmed by weather, terrain, ice, or other dangers of the mountain. Inexperience, poor planning, and inadequate equipment can all contribute to injury or death, so knowing what to do right matters.

Despite all the negatives, when done right, mountain climbing is an exciting, exhilarating, and rewarding experience. This article is an overview beginner's guide and outlines the initial basics to learn; in reality, each step is deserving of an article in its own right, and entire tomes have been written on climbing mountains, so you're advised to spend a good deal of your beginner's learning immersed in reading widely. This basic overview will give you an idea of what is involved in a climb.

Steps

1. Do your research. Before you even set out to climb mountains, do as much reading as you can about the skills needed and about other people's experiences. It is as important to understand the mental effort required to climb a mountain as it is to be fit, and know how to use the equipment properly, and one of the best ways of understanding this is to read the stories of mountaineers who have climbed challenging, interesting, or many mountains. Many bookstores now carry sections specifically devoted to the craft of mountain climbing, so it won't be hard to find good books.
   • A good starter book is the one by Steve M Cox and Kris Fulaas, Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills.
   • Watch DVDs about mountain climbing experiences. There are many good documentaries and movies focused on mountain climbing available.
   • Learn about the best times to climb mountains in different regions of the world. If you're able to and interested in traveling to mountains beyond your own country, this can open up more opportunities with differing alpine seasons around the world. For example, the best climbing in Europe is June to September, in New Zealand it's December to March, and in Alaska it's June and July. Within these generalized climbing seasons there are marked variations of suitability dependent on the amount of people climbing, the weather variations that cannot be predicted until they occur and the reality that some seasons are good and some are bad.
   • Learn all that you can about weather conditions and mountains. Mountains create their own weather systems (micro-climates). Learn how to read portents of bad weather, how to read the clouds, how to test wind direction, and understand what weather changes throughout the day mean for your climb. Learn how to respond to lightning strikes.
2. Assess your mental strength. A lot of mountain climbing is about your mental attitude because you will need to make sound, fast judgments about conditions, directions, and safety. For many mountaineers, the mental challenge is a large part of the allure because you are taken completely out of your usual routine of air-conditioned offices and easy lifestyles into a world where decision-making has major consequences and you're thoroughly tested. Some things to ask yourself include:
   • Do you panic easily or resort to making rash decisions? This kind of temperament is dangerous when climbing a mountain, which needs a steady head, calm and clear thinking, and an ability to work out the best solution quickly.
   • Are you able to push past pain barriers or do you prefer to give up and find something else less strenuous to do?
   • Are you positive by nature but also realistic and honest with yourself? Overconfidence is not desirable as it can lead you into severe trouble when climbing.
   • Are you a good problem-solver?
3. Get fit. Mountain climbing requires good fitness and endurance skills because it is an intensely demanding physical activity. You can't simply turn up for a big climb after a relatively sedentary office desk lifestyle. Train for fitness and strength in ways that benefit you best. The types of fitness regimes that might help you include:
   • Running and jogging, including endurance running.
   • Walking and hiking, with the hiking become increasingly arduous, perhaps including scrambling.
   • Weightlifting, or walking and running with weights in a backpack or held in your hands as you go uphill.
   • Climbing practice - local walls, ice climbing lessons and glacier walking can all be useful training.
   • Skiing and snowboarding (especially if you intend to use these as means for returning after a climb, which is really extreme but possible on some mountains).
   • Anything that improves strength and endurance, the two essentials for peak physical fitness when mountain climbing.
4. Acquire the gear. Mountain climbing gear is very specific and absolutely essential. You have two options – buying your own or hiring it. If you decide to purchase your own, this will be initially expensive but if done gradually, it's a good option as you can be sure everything is fitted to you exactly, and if you plan on climbing more than one mountain, it's a good investment. If you're hiring gear, you won't be guaranteed ideal fit and the items will obviously be used but if you use a reputable outfitter, they will be able to provide quality, tested items. It's probably a good idea to hire for the first experience to see if you even enjoy mountain climbing, and then decide whether or not to start assembling your own gear. Even with hiring, there will still be items you need to purchase for yourself, such as your wick-away clothing layers, and perhaps your boots, as clothing items are far more important to get fitted properly than the ice axe or the crampons, etc.
   • See the list under "Things You'll Need" for a good starting list of equipment.
   • Be aware that mountaineers are obsessed with weight, and with good reason. You have to carry everything with you all the way up that mountain. Be loaded down by inessential gear is not an option for a mountain-climber and mountaineers are always looking for ways to cut weight without cutting corners on safety. This can increase costs as lightweight materials like titanium will cost more than their heavier counterparts.
5. Learn about mountaineering ethics. Knowing how to climb a mountain isn't just about the physical and mental aspects. Many mountains are located in remote areas of the world and your climbing can have an impact on the local environment. It is a privilege to be able to climb pristine mountains and most mountaineers are very concerned to keep mountains in their original condition, as well as not abusing local amenities or running roughshod over local cultures.
   • Learn the Leave No Trace set of principles.
   • Tread softly, be an advocate for wilderness protection, and obtain all necessary permits.
   • Read the Climbing Code. This code was developed for safety purposes and is essential reading for beginners.
   • No mountain climb should ever be attempted alone; at the very least, climb with friends who have already climbed mountains.
6. Get training. If you intend on doing your first climb as a course for beginners, then the course will serve as your initial training. On the other hand, if you're planning to climb with a companion, you may need to undertake some basic training before setting off unless you're prepared to "learn as you go" with your guide. A mountain club can offer you specialized courses in such skills as (and you need to know them all):
   • Ice climbing, cutting ice steps, using the ice axe.
   • Self-arrest techniques.
   • Glissading (a descending technique) in which you slide down, using your ice axe to check your speed.
   • Crossing crevasses and crevasse rescue techniques, and crossing snow bridges.
   • Using your crampons, including putting them on, walking in them, and specific techniques, etc.
   • Begin Glacier Climbing walking.
   • Various climbing techniques and skills, including route finding, map reading, using pitons, wedges, and bolts, knot tying, rope management and use (belaying, etc.)
   • Avalanche safety training. This is usually a distinct course and you can join courses offered in many places around the world, usually for skiers and snowboarders, but also some tailored to mountaineers and rescue professionals. This course is useful even if you don't keep up your mountain climbing but continue to participate in winter sports.
   • Basic first aid techniques and rescue signals should also be learned as part of your training.
7. Plan your first climb. Your first ascent should be one suited to a beginner and preferably with an experienced guide. The level of difficulty of a mountain is affected by both its altitude and its terrain. Mountains are graded from easy to extremely difficult, with many gradations in between. A beginner mountaineer should always ascend an "easy" mountain to begin with, while still taking all necessary precautions because a mountain is still a mountain, no matter how "easy" it is considered. Different countries assign different grade systems, so you'll need to do a little research first. You'll also need to understand rock pitches (from very difficult to hard, very severe) and ice pitches if rock and ice pitches (alpine and waterfall ice) are an issue on the mountain sought to be climbed.
   • Try non-technical "walk-up" mountains to begin with, such as Mount Elbert and Mount Kilimanjaro. These will help you learn what it feels like to climb higher, to learn about weather changes, and to get a feel for the energy expended.
   • The "where" will be up to where you live and how much your budget stretches but it's recommended that you aim low for your first climb or climbs. That way, you'll start to get the feel for climbing, minor altitude changes, and you'll be able to spend more time concentrating on technique rather than worrying about exposure, oxygen deprivation, and lack of skills to cope. Remember that every climb can be that little bit harder and higher, so don't try to overdo it to begin with.
   • Research the intended climb well. Check out the region, the weather patterns for the time of year you're intending to climb, the known hazards, and each possible way of ascending the mountain. For a beginner, always choose the routes most recommended for the easiest climb, and ask guides or locals if this is not clear.
   • Find out what service huts and other amenities are available at the base and along the way. Find out what rules there are about using facilities and payments required.
   • Find maps of the climb and learn all that you can about the routes. Maps should always accompany you on a climb; trim the edges if you're worried about added weight.
8. Keep improving your skills and trying harder mountain climbs. Next, try glaciated peak mountains which require gear and basic mountain technical skills. Volcanoes tend to form great beginner mountains of this type and with basic training, you should be able to accomplish them easily. Examples include Mt. Blanc, Mt. Rainier, Mt. Baker, and volcanoes in Ecuador and Mexico, as well as trekking mountains in Nepal. Grand Teton and Mt. Stuart can be climbed at this stage if you have good rock-climbing skills.
   • Move on to expedition peaks which require long walk-ins, good technical climbing skills, and all-round mountaineering knowledge. From here, the sky is the limit.
9. Find a good guide. One of the best things you can do is to join a mountain climbing club near you. From this club, you'll soon connect into other clubs through a shared network and you'll be able to find good, trusted, and reputable guides through clubs. The great thing about clubs is that they will arrange group climbs, which are often targeted at beginner to intermediate Be a Good Climber, so you can learn the skills while having fun meeting other like-minded climbers.
   • Spend time talking to experienced climbers in club meetings. They can tell you a great deal more than you'll ever learn just from reading, and they may even end up offering to mentor you or at least put you on to the right people who can help you on your way.
   • Climbing clubs tend to tackle more technically difficult mountains than commercial outfitters. As your climbing skills improve, bear this in mind when you want to extend your abilities.
10. Prepare for the trip. If your mountain is close by, there will be less to arrange than if it requires travel to reach. If you don't live near mountains, you'll need to travel and book accommodation, and if this travel includes flying overseas, you'll also need to take into account baggage allowances and visa requirements, etc. In both cases, consider ensuring that you have insurance for equipment loss, and for medical evacuation, injury, and death.
    • Pack your gear with care. If your ice axe, crampons, boots, and other gear need to fly, pack with great care. Some of these items can tear through bags easily and rip other people's stuff or falling out and getting lost. When driving, be sure to place your gear in a safe place to prevent it flying forward if you have to brake suddenly.
    • Check whether you need permits. Many popular mountains now require permits for safety, control, and environmental reasons.
    • Even if a permit is not required, you should always find out where to leave details of your intended journey and make sure to leave your departure and expected return times with local officials who have responsibility for the mountain area, as well as with family and friends.
11. Understand what's involved on arrival at the mountain. Prior to the climb, it is usual to set up a base camp. If you're climbing with a course, they may have a permanent hut at base camp, so inquire when booking your course. The base camp serves as the departure point and you can sometimes spend considerable time here just waiting for weather improvements, depending on the difficulty of the mountain and the climb. For less treacherous mountains, base camp may be merely the first night's stop off before you head off for the climb with your companion or group.
    • Use this time to double and triple check your gear. Check that you have everything you need (taking a list is helpful) and check that everything is in good working order.
    • Check any other Find a Camping Supply List required, such as food, water, clothing, etc.
    • Spend time talking to your guide or companion about the route and what's to be expected by way of hazards, weather conditions, likely problem areas, and any other issues needing to be covered. Look over your map of the area and know the route well in your mind. Look for any other possible routes that might be needed as safety exits should anything go wrong.
    • Exercise by stretching, walking, running, etc. – whatever you usually do to continue staying fit.
    • Eat a good meal and get to bed early.
12. Begin climbing. This step is simply an overview, for the actual climb requires many different techniques and is contextual to the mountain. This is where reading detailed books about your intended mountain climb is invaluable, along with talking to climbers who have already climbed it. Most climbs begin very early in the morning to ensure that you have time to come back down before darkness, or if you're sleeping on the mountain, to ensure you reach a suitable place for sleeping each night. After checking you have everything you need (which you should have packed the night before), and having a hearty breakfast, set out on your climb with your guide or experienced companion. Put into action all of the skills that you have trained for before reaching this mountain.
    • Stick to your route unless there are major encumbrances preventing you from doing so.
    • Follow what your guide asks you to do. As a beginner, heed the wisdom of the experienced while still using your own judgment and being responsible.
    • Take regular short breaks to eat Pack Food for a Day of Cross Country Skiing, rest briefly and to assess your direction. However, don't linger too long where you cool down too much.
    • Keep hydrated. It's easy to dehydrate in the cold because your body doesn't seem thirsty, so be sure to keep drinking fluids regularly.
    • Stay with the other climbers at all times.
    • Enjoy the summit. Take photos and feel proud.
13. Descend with plenty of time to get back safely. Be aware that the descent is hard and dangerous. While it may seem easier than going up, this is the time that accidents are most likely to occur, and when concentration tends to lapse.
    • Stay focused on finding good footholds when scrambling, and climbing down.
    • Scramble where it is safe to do so. It is faster and easier to scramble facing out.
    • Be very careful when Abseil Without Going Crazy; end-of-the-day abseiling tends to have high accident rates because people get tired, misplace anchors, have slings break, and generally don't stay as alert as is needed.
    • Keep falling rocks, avalanches, and weakened snow and snow bridges in mind as you descend.
    • Keep roped. It might feel like you're almost at the base when crossing that last glacier but if you're un-roped and fall down a crevasse, that's it.

Tips

• Keep hydrated. Cold weather tends to fool people into thinking they're not thirsty but the cold plus the high level of activity means that it is important to maintain your liquids at all times.
• Climb in groups and with experienced climbers. Never climb alone; if you think this point is being rammed home, there is good reason for it!
• Always put caution before bravado. It's better to come home and try again than to go too far and never return.
• This is a sport "for life". You can enjoy mountain climbing at many ages, provided you remain fit and have the right mindset.
• Know the signs of oxygen deprivation, exhaustion, and hypothermia; this isn't just for yourself but also for others, as you need to know if someone has become delirious and is pushing on despite the reality that they should turn around and get help or medical attention.
• Unless there are toilets on the climb, carry out all personal waste.
• Always beware of what is in front of you.

Warnings

• Mountain climbing is an extreme and dangerous sport. Train with an experienced climber before attempting your first climb. Don't climb alone.
• Don't attempt any challenging mountain climb until you have good solid experience with lesser mountains and their challenges. And be fully aware of just how dangerous high mountain climbing is. The most dangerous climbs are (2008 figures): Annapurna (8,091 m), where 130 climbers have submitted Annapurna, while 53 have died. The overall fatality rate is thus 41 percent; Nanga Parbat (8,125m) where 216 climbers have submitted Nanga Parbat and 61 have died. The overall fatality rate thus 28.24 percent; and K2 (8,611 m), where 198 climbers have summitted the world's second highest peak and 53 have died. K2's overall fatality rate is 26.77%.

Things You'll Need

• Warm clothing (no cotton); use layers that wick away moisture, extra socks, gloves, balaclava or face mask, extra socks (you can't have too many socks)
• Climbing boots with crampons; be aware that it can months and even years to find the "right" boot. Look online and overseas if your local stores don't stock comfortable enough boots. Do your research into climbing boots, as these must be just right or you'll suffer
• Ice axe, ice hammer
• Helmet
• Gaiters
• Harness, belay break
• Head lamp
• Backpack – choose one that is lightweight but strong, large enough to carry all your needs but not bulky, and with hooks for the ice axe and crampons to hang through
• Ropes and carabiners (karabiners) – do not buy flimsy carabiners used as toys or decorative wear; these must be the strong ones made for mountaineering; they are expensive and are usually kept behind counters
• Tape for abseil loops
• Ice screws, nuts, slings, etc. – note that these items are dependent on the type of mountain climbed, be sure to know well in advance
• First aid kit (small)
• Sunscreen and lip salve, sunglasses, goggles
• Tent (this must be one that is able to withstand high wind and snow; these types of tents tend to be highly specialized and the most expensive; or a bivouac
• Sleeping bag – mountain quality
• Cooking supplies (be sure to get a cooking appliance that is lightweight and will light under dreadful conditions of cold and wind) and lightweight utensils and mug, plate
• Food – high energy food is a must. Read up on the types of food supplies, usually high in fat (chocolate, nuts, sweets, cookies (biscuits), condensed milk, cheese, dried fruit, sugar lumps, olive oil, energy bars, etc.)
• Water, reconstituted fruit drink (powder)
• Straw to allow you to suck trickles of water from rocks or pools along the way as additional hydration
• Pocket knife (small)
• Feces and urine removal kit & loo paper (yes, there are unpleasant but necessary aspects to being a human)
• Climbing permit
• Map
• Compass, GPS perhaps
• Camera (optional but there are good lightweight ones available now) – be aware that cold batteries don't work. You may need to keep batteries warm in a pocket and then fumble them into the camera when needed
• Passport if crossing borders (for example, in Europe)

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Sources and Citations

See also

• Do Mountain Climbers

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