Cut a Fade Haircut

The fade haircut is a popular, flattering style that encompasses any type of cut in which the hair is cut short near the neck and gradually gets longer near the top of the head. Do a little research to figure out what type of fade you want, then use clippers and a pair of barber scissors to cut the fade. Read on to find out how to get started.

Steps

Plan the Haircut

  1. Figure out how short to cut the hair. Fade haircuts are typically short, even buzzed, near the nape of the neck. The hair gradually gets longer on the back and sides of the head, and it's longest at the top of the head. Any type of gradual transition from short to long is considered a fade, so before you begin, it's important to know how short you want the shortest part, and how long the longest part should be. Consider these distinctive fade haircut styles:
    • A Caesar fade: The Caesar fade is cut very short in the back and on the sides with a slightly greater length on top. The hair on top is combed forward, rather than parted, and the short bangs are typically swept to the side.
    • A high and tight: A high and tight haircut is virtually shaved on the sides and in the back, with a short cap of buzzed hair on top. It's a popular military style.
    • A Princeton: This type of haircut is an inch or two long on top with a gradual fade to a shorter length in the back and on the sides.
    • A fauxhawk: This cut is like a Princeton, but with a sharper fade. The top is quite long and the back and sides are buzzed or shaved.
  2. Decide where to start the fade. Everyone has a different preference for where the hair should fade from longer to shorter. The fade typically starts at the ears and becomes shorter down to the neck. Fading at the ears flatters most head shapes, but you should take the following factors into account to personalize the cut:
    • If the person's hair is finer in some places than in others, the fade should begin where the hair texture changes (as long as that's close to the ears). This will make it easier to created a blended look.
    • If the person has a cowlick that would make it difficult to fade at a certain point on the head, plan to start the fade just above or below it.

Cut a Short Fade

  1. Use clippers. Using clippers for a close cut results in an even, neat effect that's more difficult to attain with scissors. Using a different guard setting for each length - #3 for the top, #2 for the sides, and #1 for the neck area - is the best way to create a high and tight or another shorter style. This method is often called the 1-2-3 method.
  2. Start with the #3 guard. Set the clippers to the #3 guard length and buzz the entire head, including the top, sides and back, so that each part of the hair is a uniform length. Work against the grain of the hair to achieve an even cut.
  3. Switch to the #2 guard. Beginning in the back, cut the hair in vertical strokes from the neck toward the crown, stopping just short of the crown so that the hair on top of the head is left long.
    • As you near the crown with each stroke, pull back a bit so that the hair lengths fade together smoothly. Do the same on the sides of the head, taking care to pull back at the same height around the head.
    • Blend any uneven lines by going back over them with the #2 guard.
  4. Finish with the #1 guard. Start at the nape of the neck and work in upward strokes toward the middle of the back of the head. Pull back a bit to blend the shorter hair with the longer hair. Continue around the head, pulling back at the same height in each area.
  5. Examine the cut. If there are any spots that are uneven, too short or too long, go back over them with the appropriate clipper guard. Shave the hair from the neck to create neat edge at the bottom of the hairline.

Cut a Long Fade

  1. Use a combination of scissors and clippers. More complicated fade haircuts like the Caesar and the Princeton require the use of more than one tool. The concept is the same - longer on top, shorter on the sides and in the back - but the method for achieving longer fade looks is completely different.
    • Wetting longer hair may makes it easier to work with. Have the person whose hair you are cutting shampoo his or her hair and pat it dry with a towel before you get started.
  2. Trim the bottom. This time start by trimming the bottom of the hair, starting at the nape of the neck and moving upward. Use a comb to lift sections of hair between your forefinger and middle finger. Your fingers should be aligned vertically with the head. Use the scissors to trim the portion of hair sticking out from between your fingers. Continue gathering small sections of hair and trimming them to the same length until the back of the hair has been trimmed from the nape of the neck to just below the ears.
    • If the person whose hair you are cutting wants buzzed hair at the bottom of the fade, use the #3 guard on the clippers to trim the hair from the nape of the neck to just below the ears and the line between them around the back of the head. Use upward strokes and pull back gradually just before you reach the ear line.
  3. Move up to the sides and the back of the head. Using the same method you used to gather sections of hair between your fingers and cut the hair protruding from them, work around the sides of the head and the area above the ear line on the back of the head. This time, side your fingers away from the head slightly so that less hair protrudes from them.
    • Angle the scissors slightly so that they follow the slant of the head. Pointing the tips of the scissors toward the head, rather than slightly away, will result in a choppy-looking cut.
    • When you're finished with the second part of the fade, examine the hair. It should be shorter around the neck and up to the ear line, and slightly longer above the ear line and just below the crown. Correct any spots that look choppy by carefully trimming sections of hair with the scissors, always angled to follow the slant of the head.
  4. Trim the top. Lift sections of hair straight up from the top of the head so that the tips of the hair protrude from between your forefinger and middle finger. Snip the tips of the hair with the scissors. Continue trimming the hair at the top of the head in this fashion until you've trimmed it all to the same length.
    • Examine the fade from the crown area to the back of the head. Is the fade smooth? If not, use the scissors to even things out. Remember to hold your fingers vertically, rather than horizontally, to prevent a staircase effect.
    • Check out the front of the hair. Are the bangs trimmed to the correct length? Take extra care to trim the bangs and sideburns neatly.
  5. Examine the haircut. Comb the hair, then have the person check out the sides and back to make sure he or she is happy with the way it turned out. If necessary, wet the hair again and use the scissors to even it out in places where it looks choppy.



Tips

  • You will not be able to apply the exact same technique or sequence in cutting for everyone. As you begin cutting, you will see all kinds of hair types and depending on the type, you will notice you will have to adjust your technique. Determining the exact formula that works on each head will take time. With enough practice, you will be able to just look at the hair and know what to expect.

Things You'll Need

  • Professional grade clippers (with at least 3 adjustable guard lengths)
  • Barber scissors
  • Barber comb
  • Mirror

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Sources and Citations

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