Cut the Back of a Bob Haircut
After you Prep and Section for a Bob Haircut, it's time to cut. But before you take up your shears, talk with your client about the kind of bob cut she wants, whether it is a classic bob, graduated bob, or a layered bob. These common cuts are likely culprits.
Contents
Steps
Cutting a Classic Bob
- Prepare the hair. Take a moment to visit our article about Prep and Section for a Bob Haircut. Proper preparation will give you the best results.
- Make a natural part. Divide the hair into four sections. For the back sections, part the hair along the back of the head by following the hair's natural part from the crowd down. Comb out the hair to either side.
- Take a small section of hair from the back of the head. With your comb, separate a small diagonal section of hair from the bottom of the back section. Comb it flat against the client's neck, letting it come to a natural fall.
- Cut a straight line from the middle. Using your comb, cut the hair square starting from the middle and moving to the outside edge. At the end, check to make sure that the line is straight and even.
- Repeat with the rest of the hair. Take another small diagonal section, and comb it down over the first cut. Cut along the same straight line as the first cut. Continue doing this throughout the bob for a straight, classic cut.
Cutting a Graduated Bob
- Divide the hair in four sections that are parted neat and straight. Your vertical part should be straight down the middle of your client's head, and your horizontal part should be about one inch above the hairline.
- Each side of the bottom horizontal portion should be divided equally down the center and tucked off to each side.
- Comb the hair flat against the neck. The hair should be cut in natural fall. This means that you should comb the hair flat against the neck, holding it with light tension. This will help create more blended graduations.
- Begin cutting. Take a diagonal subsection of hair from the back, and hold your hand close to the base of the scalp at a 45-degree angle. Cut the hair along the 45-degree line created by your fingers.
- Cut the hair above the parietal ridge (where the skull begins to curve upwards to the top of the head) at a lower elevation.
- If you are right-handed, comb the left section aside, beginning with the right half of your first section.
- Left handed individuals should follow these directions in reverse, starting first with the left section and then working from the outside in.
- Follow the guideline of your hand closely. You will want to cut a straight line from the outside inward. Use the straight edge of your hand to maintain your cutting angle. Cross check by pulling a small piece of hair from the same spot on either side and visually checking the length.
- Cut the left side of the first section. Do this in the same fashion described for cutting the right side. Be sure you maintain the same angle of cut on each side.
- Take a new section of hair at the same angle. Your next section of hair is going to be anywhere from a half to a full inch above the first section line. Make sure you are cutting methodically. Consistency is key to making your cut uniform.
- Repeat until you reach the meeting point of the crown and the back of the head. This line can be identified by connecting an imaginary line from ear-to-ear across the top of the middle of the head. Separate the back portion by directing it behind the ear. This will connect the back and side sections properly.
Cutting a Layered Bob
- Wash the hair and section it into standard four-quadrant sections. If you're feeling unsure about prep for this hairstyle, review our article about Prep and Section for a Bob Haircut.
- Cut an angled bob to the occipital bone. You can locate the occipital bone by observing the bump on the back of the head and imagining an even line extending from that to the ears.
- Take the hair in even subsections from the occipital bone up. Adding layers will add volume to your cut. Bear in mind that your horizontal sections should be in increments between one half inch and one whole inch.
- Lift each section of hair to form a 90 degree angle with the head. Doing this should leave you holding the hair straight above your client's head. From this position, you can determine the length at which you will make your cut.
- Cut the desired length of hair evenly at your perpendicular angle. This will give your bob lift. A layered cut will make the hair naturally stack on itself, giving your stacked bob more body as a result.
- It is imperative that you take care and precisely cut the same angle and length on both sides.
- Continue cutting subsections at a 90 degree angle until the back of the head is complete. You should cut until you reach a line across the middle of the head, connecting one ear to the other. When you have exhausted your back subsections, you're ready to move on to the subsections in the front.
Tips
- Make sure the client's facial structure fits this hairstyle before making the cut. If it is not, her face may seem wider or even more narrow. It isn't a super hard style but it can be a bit tricky.
Things You'll Need
- Haircutting scissors
- A sectioning comb
- A haircut cape
- A client
Related Articles
- Cut a Bob
- Prep and Section for a Bob Haircut
- Cut the Sides of a Bob Haircut
Sources and Citations
- Videos provided by Free Salon Education
