Dip Dye Dark Hair

Dip dyeing dark hair can be tricky because hair dye only adds to the color that's already there. If you try to dip dye your hair as it is now, the color you chose may turn out a lot darker or not show at all. The secret to getting a bright, vibrant color in your dip dye is to bleach your hair first. It takes a little bit of extra effort, but the results are worth it!

Steps

Preparing and Bleaching Your Hair

  1. Protect yourself and work area from bleach stains. Cover your counter with newspaper. Wrap a dyeing cape or an old towel around your shoulders and put on a pair of plastic gloves. Lastly, make sure that you have all of your supplies laid out and ready to go.[1]
  2. Mix the bleach according to the instructions on the package. Purchase a bleaching or highlighting kit from the store and prepare the bleach according to the instructions. Each brand will be a little different. In most cases, however, you will have to mix some sort of powder into a cream.[1]
    • The type of bleach you choose depends on how dark your hair is to begin with and how much lighter you need it to go.
  3. Section off your hair. Use a rat-tail comb to divide your hair in half horizontally so that you have a top and bottom section. Clip the top section out of the way, then split the bottom section into two pigtails.[2]
  4. Use a tinting brush to apply the bleach a small section of hair. Gather a 2-inch (5.08-centimeter) section of hair. Apply the bleach to it using a tinting brush. How far you apply the bleach is up to you. Most people choose to only do the bottom half of their hair, but you can go higher or lower if you want.[1]
  5. Fold plastic wrap or aluminum foil over the hair. This will not only keep your dyeing cape/towel clean, but also prevent the bleach from getting onto the rest of your hair.[1]
  6. Continue bleaching your hair, one section at a time. Once you have finished the entire bottom row, let down another layer of hair from the top section and bleach it as well. Keep going until you are done. Remember to wrap each section with foil or plastic wrap as you finish it.
  7. Allow your hair to process. How long you wait depends on the type of bleach you used, so be sure to follow the instructions closely. Double-check your hair while it is processing. The times on the kits are only recommendations, and your hair may process faster! Do not over-process your hair, however; the longer you leave the bleach on, the more likely your hair is to be damaged. Be careful and don't lose track of time![1]
    • If you want a warm tone, such as red, violet, or pink, lighten your hair until it is marigold-yellow.[3]
    • If you want a cool tone, such as blue or green, lighten your hair until it is pale yellow, like the inside of a banana peel.[3]
  8. Rinse your hair thoroughly, then follow up with a conditioner. Make sure that you use one specially formulated for bleached, damaged, or color-treated hair. Your hair will look darker at this point, but only because it's wet.[2]
  9. Tone your hair, if needed. Sometimes, dark hair turns orange when it is bleached. This can affect the color your dip dye will turn out. Get some toning shampoo for blond or bleached hair. Mix it with some water, then apply it to your hair as a mask. Leave it on for a few hours, then wash it out with cool water.[2]
    • Toning shampoo has some blue or purple dye mixed into it. This will help neutralize any copper or brassy tones.
  10. Apply the bleach a second time, if needed. Only do this if the instructions on your kit say it is safe to do so. Keep in mind that bleach is very harsh on hair, and that the more often you bleach your hair, the more damaged it will become.[1]

Dyeing Your Hair

  1. Put on some gloves, prepare your dye, and put on a dyeing cape. If you already have the cape and gloves on from before, wipe them clean so that there's no bleach left. It might be a good idea to put on a fresh pair of gloves for this. Next, mix your dye and developer in a mixing bowl. Lastly, put on a dyeing cape.
    • If you don't have a dyeing cape, drape an old towel around your shoulders instead.
    • Some dyes already come with the developer already mixed into them (ie: Manic Panic). They are ready to go!
  2. Section off your hair. Use the handle of a rat-tail comb to divide your hair in half horizontally. Clip the top section out of the way, then divide the bottom section into two ponytails. If your hair is very thick, you may need to create more horizontal sections and ponytails.[4]
  3. Apply the dye to the bottom part of your first mini ponytail. Work the dye into your hair well, making sure to saturate it. Start from the ends first, then work your way up to the middle, where the bleached part ends. This will help make the ends more vibrant.[4]
  4. Clean your gloves, then twist your ponytail to blend the dye. Rinse the dye off of your gloves, then pat them dry with a towel. Grab your ponytail where the dyed part ends. Twist your hair into a tight rope.[4]
    • You can also switch to a new pair of gloves.
  5. Un-twist and re-twist your hair a few more times. This will help soften the transition and blend the color into your natural color better. The fade won't be as fine as an ombre, but it won't be as stark either.[4]
  6. Repeat the process for the rest of your hair. Wrap a piece of aluminum foil around your finished ponytail. Repeat the dyeing process on the other ponytail, and wrap that as well. Un-clip the top part of your hair, split it into two ponytails, and do the dyeing process all over again.[4]
    • You can also use a piece of plastic wrap instead.
    • Make sure that you apply the dye up to the same level on each ponytail.
  7. Wait for the dye to process. The longer you wait, the deeper the color will be. For a very strong color, wait up to 45 minutes. For something more subtle, wait about 10 to 15 minutes instead.[4]
    • If your dye has specific processing instructions, follow those instead.
  8. Rinse the dye out using cool water, then follow up with conditioner. Do not use any shampoo, or it will take the color out. Instead, apply some conditioner to your hair, after you have rinsed all the color out. Let it sit for a few minutes, then wash it out as well.

Caring for Your Hair

  1. Wait 24 to 48 hours before washing your hair again. When you do wash your hair, use cool water instead of how. This is especially important if you have never bleached or dyed your hair before.[3]
  2. Wash your hair with color-safe shampoo and conditioner. Make sure that you use products specially formulated for colored hair. Not only will they keep the color bright and prevent it from fading, but they will also have hydrate and nourish your hair.[5]
  3. Use a deep conditioning mask one a week. Dyed hair is often brittle and dry, so you will need to add moisture back into it. The best way to do this is with a hair mask.[6] After you finish shampooing and rinsing your hair, skip the conditioner and apply the mask instead. Let it sit for 3 to 5 minutes, then rinse it out.
    • You can also apply raw coconut oil to your hair instead.[3]
  4. Limit the heat styling. Heat styling is damaging enough as it is. Combined with harsh bleaching and dyeing, it can ruin your hair even further. If you do decide to heat style your hair, apply a heat protectant first and use a lower temperature, if possible.

Tips

  • If you are going with a custom color, mix the dye a little bit at a time to ensure that you get the exact shade you want.[3]
  • To get a more feathered look, backcomb your hair first, apply the dye, then feather it down.[5]
  • If you want pastel-colored ends, you will need to get your hair as close to white as possible. This may take up to four hours to achieve.[5]
  • Wash your hair with deep conditioner before bleaching it. This will help strengthen it for the harsh process.[5]
  • It is difficult to get your hair lighter then a golden-blond. If you want something ashy, go to a skilled stylist to avoid damaging your hair.[7]
  • Have at least bob-length hair. A dip dye won't be effective on anything shorter.[7]
  • If your hair is shorter, and you really want a dip dye, consider working with a stylist to get the look you want instead.[7]
  • If you want a subtle effect, skip the bleach and apply the dye directly to your hair. Keep in mind that the darker your hair is, the less-likely the color will show.[4]
  • The healthier your hair is, the better your results will be. Bleaching and dyeing is very harsh on hair. If your hair is already very damaged, let it grow out first, then cut off the damaged ends.[3]

Warnings

  • Be aware that bleaching and dyeing damages your hair. Your hair may break off, especially if you bleached it extensively to achieve a pastel color.[5]

Things You'll Need

  • Bleaching or highlighting kit
  • Rat-tail comb
  • Tinting brush
  • Plastic wrap or aluminum foil
  • Sink or shower access
  • Conditioner for damaged or color-treated hair
  • Colored hair dye
  • Mixing bowl or tray
  • Plastic gloves
  • Hair dyeing cape or old towel

Sources and Citations

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