Fold a Pocket Square

Up your style game by adding a nicely folded pocket square or Turn a Serviette Into a Handkerchief in the breast pocket of your jacket. Whether you’re dressing up for a more formal event like a wedding or gala, or you just want to add some personality to your attire, you can fold a pocket square in any number of ways to add that extra touch of style. Here are a few methods for common folds, perfect for any occasion.

Steps

Choosing the Right Material and Fold

  1. Choose a pocket square or handkerchief.[1]Your pocket square or handkerchief doesn’t have to be the same pattern as your tie, or even match depending on the look you are going for. For a great complement to your outfit however, it should be a complementary color or pattern.
    • Some ties come with a pocket square, which you can wear together, or you can mix it up depending on your style preference.
    • If you don’t have a pocket square, both a handkerchief or bandana can also be used.[2]
  2. Know what you’re dressing for[3]. Not every occasion calls for a pocket square, so the material pattern should complement your outfit, tying it together.
    • For formal events, you may want to opt for a white, or subtle patterned pocket square that’s crisp and neatly ironed. The fold you use should serve to accent your outfit, not distract.
    • For casual events, feel free to be more ambitious. Go with brighter colors and louder patterns.
  3. Iron your pocket square. Even if you are going more casual, it’s good to start with a clean, ironed pocket square or handkerchief.
    • Ironing your pocket square before folding will also make folding much easier.

Making an Easy Straight Fold

  1. Lay your pocket square or handkerchief flat on a solid surface. Most pocket squares are a true square so the orientation doesn’t matter here.
    • If you are using a piece of cloth that is rectangular, lay it flat vertically, with the shorter sides on the top and bottom.
  2. Fold the pocket square or handkerchief in half vertically. Grab the tips of the left side of your pocket square and fold them over to the right side.
  3. Fold the bottom part up. With your pocket square folded in half vertically, you want to now fold the bottom portion of your square about ⅔ the way up.
    • This will leave about ⅓ at the top that isn’t folded.
  4. Tuck the folded pocket square into your breast pocket.[4] You want about ¼ of an inch to be visible above your breast pocket.
    • Depending on how deep your breast pocket is, you may have to fold the bottom part of the pocket square over again.
    • If your pocket square is too wide for your breast pocket, you may have to fold your pocket square into thirds initially, instead of in half.
    • This fold is great for a clean modern look that has a timeless, dignified style. Perfect for adding just a little bit of pop to your look. Great for a workday look.

Making a One Point Fold

  1. Lay your pocket square or handkerchief flat. Position it so that it looks like a diamond.[5]
  2. Fold the pocket square in half horizontally. Grab the bottom corner of the diamond and fold it up to meet the top corner.
    • You should now have a triangle.
  3. Fold the left corner over to the right. You want to fold the corner about ⅔ of the way.
    • If you look at your current setup, the folded over section should form an equilateral triangle.
  4. Fold the right corner over to the left. Just like before, you should fold the corner about ⅔ of the way and lay it over your previous fold.
    • If done correctly, your pocket square should now resemble an open envelope.
  5. Flip the folded handkerchief over. You want the flat side of your pocket square to be facing outward when you place it into your breast pocket. Insert it into the jacket pocket.
    • If your square is too wide, you may need to fold it again and make tucks so that it fits smoothly into the pocket.
    • This fold is great for adding just a bit of class to your look. Wear it to work or a dinner party.

Making a Three Stair Fold

  1. Lay your pocket square flat. For the staircase fold you will position the square like a diamond.[6]
  2. Fold the bottom point up. Make a horizontal fold so the bottom point meets the top point. You will now have a triangle.
  3. Fold down the top layer down partially. You want to fold only the top layer of fabric, leaving about an inch at the bottom.
    • Your tip should go past the bottom of the pocket square without completely unfolding.
  4. Fold the lower point up again. This time making the fold at about half the thickness of the strip below it.
    • You should now have what resembles one large triangle with a smaller one placed on top.
  5. Fold the point down a second time. You may have to keep the folds in place with one hand while you fold the tip down with the other. Leave about an inch for the strip again.
    • Depending on the fabric of your pocket square or handkerchief, it may be difficult to keep all of your folded sections in place. Each time you make a fold, make a good crease to keep the folds in place.
    • If you are having a hard time keeping the folds intact, you can lightly iron the creases. Be careful not to burn the fabric, Especially if you are using silk.[7]
  6. Fold the lower point up again. When you are done with the folding, you should see three folds with the top fold forming the base of a small triangle.
    • You may want to lightly iron your fabric here to flatten and hold the folds.
  7. Fold the right half of your pocket square behind the left side. This part is tricky as this fold needs to go behind so that you can still see the steps in your pocket square.
    • Lift up the bottom of your pocket square at the center and pinch with your thumb and forefinger so the folds stay intact.
  8. Lift the entire pocket square. By pinching the pocket square between you fingers, you can lift the entire square and let it naturally fold in half.
    • Lay the fabric flat and make adjustments with your free hand until until the right side is folded behind the left.
  9. Rotate your pocket square 90 degrees counterclockwise. Your folds should now be at the top of your triangle.
  10. Fold the left point over to the right. Grab the left point and fold roughly ⅓ of the way, or until the left edge lines up nicely with the folds.
  11. Fold the right point over to the left. Adjust the overall width of the final form by adjusting how far over you fold each the sides.
    • If done correctly, you should now have a similar open envelope look like with the one point fold.
  12. Place the pocket square into your pocket. You may need to adjust the height by folding up the bottom as needed to accommodate the size of your breast pocket.
    • You want to insert your pocket square into your breast pocket so that all of the folds are facing outwards.
    • This is a great fold that looks good in your tuxedo jacket or your casual suit. Wear it for a slightly more formal event like a wedding, or big event.

Folding a Puff Pocket Square

  1. Lay your pocket square flat. Position it on a flat surface so that it looks like a diamond.
  2. Pinch the center of the pocket square or handkerchief with your thumb and forefinger. Use whichever hand you feel comfortable with here, as your other hand will be used to hold the shape of the puff.
  3. Lift the pocket square off of the surface. Lift the fabric with a bit of force causing the square to drape from where you are grasping.
    • The corners of your pocket square will naturally fold over each other, and don’t be too concerned if they look a little uneven, that’s the point of this look.
  4. Lightly wrap your other hand around the draping fabric. Keeping the top of the square pinched between the thumb and forefinger of the hand you grabbed the square with.
    • You don’t want to have too tight of a grasp on the fabric here. Just enough so that the fabric can hold the shape you’ve created.
  5. Move your left hand down while gently squeezing the material until you have almost reached the bottom of the handkerchief. This is called 'fluting'.
    • Your pocket square should now look a bit like a rocket ship with the corners at the bottom.
  6. Fold the top of the handkerchief over your thumb. The flute of the pocket square should be over the thumb that is holding your pocket square together.
    • While holding the tip of the pocket square, you may want adjust your other hand a little further down so that the folded portion is longer than the tips of the pocket square.
  7. Pinch the folded pocket square. Using the thumb and forefinger of the hand not holding your pocket square, pinch the whole pocket square just below your other thumb.
    • You may have to wiggle your thumb loose and make a few adjustments, but that’s ok since this fold is meant to look a little messy.
  8. Rotate the handkerchief. You will need to rotate your square or handkerchief so that the fold is at the bottom with the tip at the top.
  9. Stuff the fold down into your breast pocket. Make adjustments here, pulling at the tip of the pocket square so that it fills out your breast pocket.
    • While most of the time, you want to insert your pocket nicely into your pocket so you don't mess up your fold, here with the puff, feel free to stuff it in. This look is all about making your fold look effortless.
    • The puffy part of your pocket square should be facing out.
    • You can either tuck the corners of your pocket square down so only the puff is visible, or leave the tips as a personal touch.
    • The puff fold is great for a party or event that's a bit more relaxed. It adds a bit of your personal style to a classic look.



Tips

  • If your folded pocket square or handkerchief is so small that it keeps disappearing into your pocket, use a little tissue in the bottom of the pocket to take up some room. Don't use so much that it causes a bulge.
  • For a clean, more European look, use a cotton or linen handkerchief and fold into a square shape. Use the long side of a playing card to approximate the width of the pocket square and use an iron to make it extra clean and flat.
  • Play with your own folding and styling techniques, as a pocket square is meant to serve as your own personal touch.
  • If your handkerchief sags after you flute it, try ironing your handkerchief with a little starch.

Related Articles

Sources and Citations

  1. ↑ http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/dirnellis-ten-commandments-of-the-pocket-square/
  2. ↑ http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/handkerchief-or-pocket-square/
  3. ↑ http://blog.bespokeedge.com/2015/02/when-to-wear-a-pocket-square/
  4. ↑ https://www.samhober.com/howtofoldpocketsquares/flatpocketsquarefold.htm
  5. ↑ https://www.samhober.com/howtofoldpocketsquares/Onepointpocketsquarefold.htm
  6. ↑ https://www.samhober.com/howtofoldpocketsquares/Threestairs.htm
  7. ↑ https://www.samhober.com/pocketsquare/pocketsquarecare.htm
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