Hem a Skirt

If your skirt is too long, you can always cut it shorter to suit your style. Simply cutting the skirt is not enough, however; you have to hem your skirt as well. How you hem your skirt will depend on whether it it a regular skirt, or a circle skirt. Once you know how to hem, you will be able to give your customized clothing a professional touch.

Steps

Hemming a Standard Skirt

  1. Decide how long you want the skirt to be, and add 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) to it. You will need this extra length for the hem. If your skirt has a lining, and you need to hem it as well, plan on having it 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) shorter than the finished skirt.[1]
  2. Draw a line across the skirt where you need to cut it using dressmaker's chalk. Consider using a hem gauge to measure upward from the hem while you draw the line. This will ensure that you will be cutting an equal amount off all around the skirt. If you don't have a hem gauge, you can use a ruler or measuring tape instead.
  3. Cut the excess fabric off using fabric scissors, using the line you drew as a guide. If your skirt has a lining, cut the lining 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) shorter.
  4. Fold the hem down by ½ inch (1.27 centimeters), secure it with sewing pins, then press it with an iron. Be sure that you are folding towards the wrong size of the fabric (inside the skirt). If you have a serger, or if your serving machine has an overlock stitch, you can skip the folding and use that instead. When you are done, remove the sewing pins.
  5. Fold the hem down by another 1½ inches (3.81 centimeters), secure it with sewing pins, then press it flat with an iron again. If you are sewing a skirt lining, fold it down by ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) instead.[1] Keep the pins in place.
  6. Consider sewing the hem down using a sewing machine. Try to get as close to the folded edge as you can. About 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch (0.16 to 0.32 centimeters) will be enough.[2]
    • Use a thread color that closely matches your fabric.
    • This is ideal for those who are working with skirt linings and thinner materials.
  7. Consider blind stitching the hem. Thread a needle, and tie a knot at the end of the thread. Use the needle to pull the thread through the hem. Catch 1 to 2 threads from the skirt material, then bring the needle back into the hem. Pull the needle ¼ inch (0.63 centimeters) through the hem, then use it to catch 1 to 2 threads from the skirt material again. Keep blind stitching until the hem is all sewn up. Knot the end of the thread, and snip the rest off.[1][3]
    • Use a thread color that closely matches your fabric.
    • This is great for those working with a heavier or thicker material.
  8. Press the hem down with an iron one final time. After this, your skirt is now ready to wear.

Hemming a Circle Skirt

  1. Determine how long you want your skirt to be, then add 5/8 inch (1.59 centimeters) to it. You will need this extra fabric to make the hem. If you are going to be hemming a skirt lining, plan on making it 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) shorter than the finished skirt.
  2. Draw a line around the skirt where you need to cut it, then cut along that line. Consider using a hem gauge to measure up from the bottom of the skirt to the cutting point. This will help ensure that you are cutting an even amount off all along the hem. If you don't have a hem gauge, you can use a measuring tape or ruler instead.
    • If you are cutting a skirt lining, cut it 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) shorter than the skirt itself.
  3. Using a sewing machine, straight stitch a line ¼ inch (0.63 centimeters) away from the cut edge. Try to use a higher thread tension for this. This will help make the hem easier to fold later on. It will also create a sort of guideline for you, so you won't have to make as many measurements.[4]
    • Use a thread color that closely matches your fabric.
  4. Fold the hem inward, with the stitching right at the folded edged, and press it flat with an iron. Lift the iron up and down as you press; do not move it side to side. You should have a ¼ inch (0.63 centimeters) wide hem inside your skirt at this point.
  5. Fold them hem inward by another ¼ inch (0.63 centimeters), and press it flat with an iron again. Because the folding takes up some excess fabric, your hem will be about 5/8 inch (1.59 centimeters), as opposed to an exact ½ inch (1.27 centimeters).[4]
  6. Stitch the hem down, 1/8 inch (0.32 centimeters) from the top folded edge. If your sewing machine has an edge stitching foot attachment, consider using that instead.[4] The edge stitching foot is often labeled as a #5 foot.[5]
    • Use a thread color that closely matches your fabric.
  7. Press the hem one last time. After this, your skirt is ready to wear.



Tips

  • If you can, wash, dry, and iron your skirt to remove any potential shrinking and wrinkles. The one exception to this is if your skirt is not machine washable.
  • Let your skirt hang a few days before you hem it. This will allow the fabric to stretch with the direction it drapes in.[6]

Things You'll Need

Hemming a Standard Skirt

  • Skirt
  • Measuring tape or ruler
  • Hem gauge (optional)
  • Scissors
  • Dressmaker's chalk
  • Sewing machine or needle and thread
  • Thread
  • Sewing pins
  • Iron

Hemming a Circle Skirt

  • Skirt
  • Measuring tape or ruler
  • Hem gauge (optional)
  • Scissors
  • Sewing machine
  • Thread
  • Iron

Related Articles

Sources and Citations

  1. ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 http://www.thedapperbun.com/2012/01/diy-style-simple-hem-jobs.html
  2. ↑ http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/12/how-to-hem-skirts-and-pants
  3. ↑ http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/05/hand-stitching/
  4. ↑ 4.0 4.1 4.2 https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/tutorial-hemming-a-curved-edge-by-machine
  5. ↑ http://www.feathersflights.com/2011/02/how-to-edgestitch-and-double-stitch.html
  6. ↑ http://blog.megannielsen.com/2015/06/a-simple-trick-for-evening-out-the-hem-of-a-circle-skirt/
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