Inspect a Fireplace Chimney
Inspecting and cleaning fireplaces and chimneys is essential for safety and efficiency. Remember, some projects are better left to professionals, but with basic tools and common sense, you can get a pretty good idea of the condition of yours.
Steps
- Remove the ashes and debris from the fire box. Brush the sides and bottom with a stiff broom or chimney brush. Vacuum out the loosened ashes and if possible remove the andirons.
- Open the screen and glass doors (if so equipped) as wide as possible, and place a large piece of cardboard or a drop cloth in the firebox. Lay on your back and slide into the box as far as you need to so that you can shine a flashlight up the flue. You are looking for cracks in masonry, or burn out holes in a metal "insert" type box, as well as the condition of the damper.
- Have someone operate the damper as you watch to see that it closes and opens smoothly and fits securely in the brackets. You may want to wear safety glasses here, as the damper may be coated with creosote and ash buildup, which can drop in your eyes. When you are finished checking the damper, be sure it is in the closed position.
- Place a drop cloth or large piece of cardboard in the firebox with the edge taped up or propped at the front to protect the room from material dropping down from the top of the chimney. Close the screen and glass doors if so equipped.
- Climb a ladder to the roof of your home, and go to the location where the chimney projects up. If it has a rain cover or bird screen, you will need to remove this. Before removing it, be sure to have flashing material on hand to seal it back when you reattach it after you finish.
- Shine your flashlight down the flue and look for a dangerous buildup of creosote, a combustible brown or black by-product of wood that accumulates in chimney flues.
- Using a stiff brush with a long handle attached, start at the top of the chimney brushing the sides, and work your way down. Unless you buy or rent a chimney brush, you probably will not be able to completely clean the inside of the chimney, but should be able to dislodge enough of the buildup to let it operate safely.
- Fashion an extension tube for a shop vac using a length of PVC pipe so that it can be dropped down to remove the debris you have dislodged from the flue. Most chimneys have a smoke shelf and damper door which prevent this material from dropping all the way to the fire box floor. After cleaning, use the flashlight to examine the flue for cracks and gaps. Most chimneys are constructed with either a metal pipe flue or a clay chimney liner that comes in {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} sections. If you are satisfied there are no visible cracks, replace the chimney cap if it is so equipped, using the sealant for the flashing removed earlier.
- Look at the place the chimney adjoins the roof, especially if it comes through the roof on three or four sides. There will be a flashing here to waterproof the roof system, and often it will become corroded or collect debris which can cause roof leaks, and now is a good time to take a look.
- Climb down the ladder and return to the fireplace. Remove the drop cloth or protective barrier you installed to prevent the soot and ash brushed from the upper flue from being scattered in your room. You should be ready to replace your andirons and build a pleasant warm fire to enjoy.
Tips
- Do not leave the fire unattended, and especially never leave a child in the room with the fire alone.
- Close the damper as much as possible to slow combustion and save heat when you are using the fireplace.
- Use only well seasoned hardwood. Green, wet wood will cause creosote to build up rapidly in the flue.
- Do not build a huge roaring fire until you have tested the chimney to make sure it drafts properly and all the masonry has cured completely.
- Burning wet wood greatly reduces the heat output - it produces much less heat than seasoned wood.
Warnings
- Excess creosote, over {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} or 3 mm, can ignite in the flue and send flames shooting out the top of the chimney, even causing the home itself to catch on fire.
- Cracks in a masonry chimney or corrosion in a metal one can cause house fires.
- Use care if you vacuum out the ash and debris indoors, if the vacuum filter does not do a good job, the room may be filled with black, sooty dust.
- Be careful on the roof, and use your ladder correctly. If you are not comfortable walking on the roof, it is probably too steep for you.
- If you use a fireplace for heat, have a carbon monoxide detector nearby. Fireplaces can use up the oxygen in a confined space, especially when there is very little ventilation.
- Find a professional to repair any problems you find that you do not feel competent doing yourself. The risk of a fire is not worth the cost.
Things You'll Need
- A good canister type wet/dry vacuum cleaner with a flexible hose and brush attachments.
- Drop cloth or cardboard
- A stiff brush, the kind sold at home centers for acid washing will usually work fine
- A length of PVC pipe the same diameter as the shop vac hose to extend down the flue
- Sealant and nails or screws to reattach the chimney cap if it is removed.
- Ladder tall enough to access the roof safely
- Flashlight
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