Remove Bees from a Chimney

One of the most problematic feral bee removals is from a chimney. People often don't realise that the improvised method of removing the bees by lighting a fire is extremely dangerous. Since wax melts at a low temperature, it is liable to liquefy and run down the flue. Once this happens, the whole lot may be hard to control. As the wax gets hotter and hotter, it may reach the flash point and may burst into flame, causing a chimney fire that might easily become a great danger to life and home. Instead, here's how to go about removing bees from a chimney safely and effectively.

Steps

  1. Learn about bees and chimneys. Understand that bees benefit from airflow and seldom nest in places that have little airflow, so the updraft found in walls and chimneys near your fireplace fits bee preferences perfectly. Understand, also, that a chimney is made up of an inner flue and an outer wall and that there is usually a space or cavity between them that is an ideal home for bees.
  2. Determine how and why the bees are getting in. You will achieve more success if you approach the problem through the bees' main entrance. Depending on your house construction, there are a quite a few possibilities for bee entrances, so observe the bees carefully to find out where the bees are entering.
    • Firstly, carefully examine the chimney weep holes. The bricks of the outer chimney wall should have weep holes that let out moisture build-up in the chimney cavity. Look for the weep holes about knee high just above the damp course of bricks. Unless the house has weep hole vents or insect barriers, the bees have easy access to the chimney cavity through the weep holes and you will often find that this is the main entrance for the feral bee colony.
    • Secondly, carefully observe the opening at the top of the chimney to see if there are bees coming and going. If the bees get in this way, it is generally through an imperfect mortar joint between a couple of flue sections about 300mm (1 ft.) down from the top of the chimney.
    • Thirdly, there is, sometimes, a chimney pot which constricts the chimney exit and, in this case, the bees will usually build their nest across the inside of the main flue, perhaps about 750 to 800mm (2-3 ft.) further down.
  3. Approach a Bee Infestation. You can't achieve much by trying to extract old combs in the main flue (or cavity) until you get rid of the bees. The sensible way to do this is to get someone with a pesticide license to dust down the flue and cavity with permethrin powder.
    • For a down-the-flue application, permethrin powder doesn't need to be applied with pressure. Sprinkling a cup full of powder down the flue will do the job.
    • If, however, bees are entering through the weep holes on the side of the chimney, the same powder must be blasted into the cavity through each weep hole.
    • It will generally take only four or five minutes for the permethrin powder to be effective and clear the cavity of bees. However, there will be bees hanging around the area for another hour or two.        
  4. Avoid the urge to light a fire! If your chimney houses a metal flue from a slow combustion stove, do not light a fire in the heater. Molten wax running down the chimney can catch fire like a blow torch, and you could lose your house to fire.
    • In this case, use permethrin dust to exterminate the bees.
    • Once the bees are completely gone, you will probably have to remove the inner part of the flue to clean it out properly.                                             
  5. Prevent bees from returning by changing the air flow. Whatever you do, increase air flow through the area the bees used to live.  This will discourage further infestation, but will not deter scavenging of the honey by other colonies.
    • If the top of the chimney had been previously capped with, perhaps, a concrete capping, it's best to lift the cap a bit so that bees can sense that the cavity is now repulsive. 
    • Don't try sealing off the top of the chimney with wire-mesh screen. Bees will always find a way in and will become frantic when trapped.
  6. Remove the honey. Let the natural "scavenging" activity by other colonies proceed. It's the easiest way to get honey in the chimney cleaned out. Once the honey is gone, the remnant wax will dry, becoming papery weak.
  7. Remove the remaining wax. After any "scavenging" by other colonies, use a long hook or trowel on the end of a long handle to get rid of the rest of the wax. As far as possible, ensure that all remnants of the hive are removed.



Tips

  • Hire a local pest controller who has bee expertise. Ask, specifically, about prior experience with bees before you hire.
  • Your local council, department of agriculture, or supplier of pest control chemicals may be able to recommend pest controllers who have experience removing bees.

Warnings

  • Not all pest controllers have knowledge about working with bees.

Related Articles

You may like