Install Cabling in a Pre Built Home
This is how to "cable" an existing structure for internet/cable/whatever.
Steps
- First thing you need to do is decide on a "path" that you want the wiring to take throughout your home. Remember that in most cases the wall studs will be placed vertically, floor to ceiling. Ceiling joist positions vary from builder, house, code etc. Go into the attic and look around, or cut a small hole somewhere in the ceiling and take a look.
- Keep in mind that less work is better. So try to arrange your path so you can minimize drywall cutting and drilling. Enclosed ceilings (like in a two story home) are more challenging because you will need to cut out a lot of drywall if you need to run the cable across the joists rather than along them.
- For the sake of this article we're going to imagine that we are running one length of Cat5 Ethernet cable from a router on the first floor to an office on the second floor of our home. Substitute "Ethernet" cable for any cable you are running. The only thing that changes are the connections at the end.
- Our router is located at the farthest corner of the home from our office (just to make things exciting). AND, our ceiling joists are running against our proposed path. (more excitement) Many times it's best to find an area with existing wiring like an outlet or cable TV jack. Then you can just run the line through the cabling holes that the contractor has already cut. In this case, we would want to place our wall box close to that
- Make sure that you know where you want your entry point into the office upstairs.
- Note:
- You can take the easy way out if you have crown moulding on the ceiling. Just pop off the moulding with a small moulding prybar. Be sure to have help with this step and take care. Especially with older moulding. All mouldings can break easily if you're too hasty, but older moulding is especially easy to crack or break. Then just run the cable behind the moulding and then into the walls, which is described below.
- Explanation of wall boxes:
- There are a couple of types that we're going to look at. First is called a "New Work" box. New Work doesn't mean the new work you're doing. It means new construction where there is no drywall yet. These are typically hammered into place where there is no drywall or other obstructions in the way.
- The second is called an "Old Work" box. This means that the home is finished and you don't have the luxury of an open area. Usually these boxes have little fins that flip out behind the drywall and pulls the box tight into place when screwed down. We're using an Old Work box, today.
- Note:
- Use the stud finder to locate a stud in the wall so we know were to locate the wall box.
- Mark the location of the wall stud with a pencil.
- Studs are typically 16in apart to the center of each stud. Sometimes they are farther apart depending on building codes, non-load bearing walls, and to keep costs down.
- Take down any mouldings that are in danger of damage. Lay down a drop cloth.
- WEAR EYE PROTECTION AT ALL TIMES!!
- SHUT OFF the breakers to the room you'll be working in. This is to keep us safe in case we happen to touch or cut wiring in the wall. Also, it's just good practice anytime you're poking around inside of a wall.
- Use your utility knife to cut a hole the size of the wall box. Remember, the outer lip of the wall box is needed to “clamp” the box against the drywall with the fins behind it. So don't cut the hole too big. Smaller is better; we can trim it later.
- Look into the hole for plumbing or anything else that would cause a problem.
- This is where it gets ugly. Since our cable is running across the joists, the only option is to cut out the drywall on the ceiling. Remember, this is an enclosed ceiling between floors. However, in your home you might find an easier way to run the cable. This is a worst case scenario.
- Use the tape measure to plot out a clean line across the ceiling. Preferably close to a wall (maybe 8-10 in away) to hide any imperfections when we replace the drywall later.
- Cut a hole in the corner of the ceiling where we want to start the cable running. Look inside to make sure there aren't any obstructions. Once we determine that it's all clear we make the long cuts across the ceiling. Make sure these lengths of drywall are manageable for easy installation later. Also when you cut the lengths to size, try to cut in the middle of a joist so we have something to attach the drywall to later.
- Now we have a nice opening to work in. Take your spade bit and drill a straight series of holes through the joists, for the cable. Keep the holes high enough on the boards so if we decide to screw the drywall into place we don't damage our cable.
- We will have to repeat these steps for any ceiling area that needs to have cable run across the joists. When we need to run with the joists, we can just cut one hole at the start, then one at the end and use our fish tape to run through the ceiling. Since we already figured out what path we were going to take, you already know where to stop the cutting.
- Now we should have open access to run our cable to the second floor.
- Go to the office and cut a box hole where you want it, following the steps above. Make sure to look inside for obstructions.
- Your friend (we'll call him Bob) stays on the first floor to help us find the perfect spot to drill down. Use your hammer or whatever to tap on the floor in the hole until you both zero in on the right spot.
- Use the spade bit again to drill from the first floor to the second. We'll have Bob do it so we can watch and make sure that the hole comes through in the right spot. This will be a thicker set of boards since it's load bearing.
- If everything went to plan, we should have everything ready to run the cable. If it didn't, adjust to make it right.
- Start at the top so we can use gravity as much as possible. Drop the cable through the holes and draw it through gently. Anytime that you need to make a turn, draw out as much cable as you need before turning, to reduce stress on the cable.
- If you need to use the Fish tape and never have before, it's easy. Anytime that you need it, unroll it, push it through the opening until it arrives at its destination, attach the cable to it using the electrical tape. Then gently pull the tape back through. That's all there is to it.
- Now all we have to do is run the cable ends through their respective wall boxes, attach any connectors etc., and test the cable before closing everything up.
- Since we did a great job, and everything works, now it's time to replace the drywall etc.
- Screw or glue the drywall back into place (liquid nails or other construction grade glue). Tape and spackle it. Sand and paint it. Then replace any mouldings that you have.
- That's how you cable an existing structure. Your application may vary considerably to this “how to”. Make adjustments as needed, but now you have the foundation to get it done.
Tips
- If you've never done anything like this before, it would be a good idea to to a little research online about this, or ask a handy friend for help.
Warnings
- Possible damage to home or person
- Possible electrical hazard
- Just use common sense, folks. If you don't feel 100% comfortable and capable of this, hire a contractor to do the work for you.
- Possible plumbing hazard.
- Use caution when attempting this activity.
- Do not attempt if you are unsure of your abilities or have limited or no knowledge of construction, wiring, plumbing etc.
- This How To is for reference and the author assumes no responsibility for any damages or losses of any kind.
- This How To was based on my own knowledge and experiences. Do not attempt if you are unfamiliar with the use of tools or their application.
Things You'll Need
- Basic knowledge of construction and use of tools.
- A fish tape. (a long retractable wire for guiding cables through walls) available at Lowe's, home Depot, etc.
- A drill
- A spade bit. 1/2in to 1-in depending on the cable.
- Long drill bit for drilling through floors and headers
- Electrical tape
- Wall boxes, plates and associated connections
- Utility knife
- Hammer
- Stud finder
- Flashlight
- Tape measure
- Cable
- A friend or two.
- Knowledge of drywall and finishing (if applicable)
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