Install a Pair of New Car Speakers and Amplifier

Have those old car speakers that came with your car when you bought it? Keep reading for detailed instructions on how to install a pair of new ones, and add an amplifier if you choose.

Steps

  1. Decide if you want to take the time to remove the original equipment speakers, or just install new ones.
  2. Look at the cost, difficulty, and sound quality you may expect from the speakers using either the original locations, new locations, and the size and type of speaker which will fit either location.



Retrofit Speakers

  1. Remove the door panel. This will vary according to model, but generally speaking, this is how you do it.
    • Remove the door lock button. Simply screw it out by turning it counterclockwise until it comes loose, and pull it off the threaded stud.
    • Remove the window crank. You will need a tool to release the snap ring, if it is installed this way. Check an auto parts supply for the proper tool for your model. Slide the tool between the base of the crank and the door panel, opening a gap to see the retainer with a small prying tool like a flat blade screwdriver. Snap the snap ring off the window crank's shaft, and pull the crank off. For crank handles with a threaded fastener visible in the center of the hub, simply unscrew the fastener and pry the handle off.
    • Look for semi concealed (recessed) screws in the door handle/armrest, and around the edge of the door panel. Remove any that are obviously holding the panel in place.
    • Use a flat pry bar or wide, flat screwdriver to pry the panel clips around the edge or seam of the door panel. These clips are spring loaded, and should snap free with minimum effort.
    • Work all the way around the sides and bottom of the panel, being sure to disengage the clips completely.
    • Lift the panel upwards while pulling it out from the window crankshaft, and it should snap free of the trim at the edge of the window.
    • Do not pull far enough away from the door itself to damage wiring for electric locks and windows, if the car is so equipped.
  2. Remove the speaker wires (mark them if the speaker has a (+) and (-) mark) from the door-mounted speakers, and remove the speaker retaining clips by prying loose with a screwdriver, or pulling off with needle nosed pliers.
  3. Match your new speakers to the old ones, both in diameter, shape, and depth. Very high powered speakers may not have space for the ceramic magnets attached to the back of the speaker frame, so it is probably best to measure this clearance before buying your new speakers.
  4. Clamp your new speakers into the door. If the original equipment clamps don't fit your new speakers, you may want to pop rivet or use self drilling machine screws to attach them.
  5. Reattach the speaker wires, noting the positive and negative positions. If you don't have a mark or know the polarity of the wires, you may have to test the speakers prior to reinstalling the door. Powering the speakers with reverse polarity should not damage them unless you have a highly amplified system, but it is always better to connect them properly the first time.
  6. Reassemble the door panel, and reinstall the window crank and lock knob in reverse order.

New Speakers in Different Locations

  1. Select the location of your new speakers. This option allows you to put much larger speakers in your car if you choose the proper location. Here are some possible choices.
    • In the rear dashboard. Install speakers here, behind the backseat headrest, by laying out holes with the cutting templates provided with your new speakers, or by tracing the outline of your new speaker grill, and cutting the hole half an inch or so smaller.
    • Mounted to the top of the cabin. You may buy speakers with enclosures suitable for mounting in the ceiling of your car. You will want to be sure they allow headroom for all passengers, and do not interfere with the view in the rear-view mirror. Also consider how you will route the speaker wires, as fabric headliners are difficult to attach the wires to, and headliners cannot be reattached like the door panels can be.
    • Behind the seat. This is the easiest way, but will not offer the optimum acoustics, since the seats will absorb much of the sound they produce. The speakers will be subject to considerable vibration if mounted on the floor of the vehicle, as well.
  2. Cut holes for rear dashboard mounted speakers, or use hardware supplied for ceiling or floor mounted speakers, and secure the assembly.
  3. Route speaker wires at the edge of upholstery or flooring to the firewall behind the dashboard, then up to the stereo. Keep them tidy, either clamping them or tucking them under the trim or edge of the flooring to keep them in place. You may choose to remove the trim and install the wire completely concealed underneath the flooring of your car.
  4. Consult the wiring diagram, if available, for your stereo, to pair the speaker wires to the correct terminals. If you have no wiring diagram, look at the terminals for markings, such as "L F" (Left, Front) "RR" (Right, rear), and connect appropriately. Most stereo wiring bundles that have speaker "pigtails" sticking out the back use standard colors for power and ground, so never attach a speaker wire to red, black, or white. Speaker wires may be color coded grey, yellow, pink, blue, green, purple, or orange, and connecting the positive speaker wires to these, and the negative wire to a ground in the vehicle should complete the circuit.

Amplifier Installation

  1. Choose a suitable location for your amplifier. Remember, the larger the amp, the more heat it will produce, and the larger the power wires will need to be. Most vehicles do not have space in the dashboard for amplifier mounting, and cutting holes in the dashboard can cause it to crack, or damage concealed mechanisms or wiring critical for your car's operation.
    • Underseat installation. Determine if there is sufficient room, depending on the size of your amp, to mount the unit underneath a seat. Make sure the aluminum cooling fins are not too close to any surfaces, as these dissipate the heat generated by the amplifier operation.
    • Trunk installation. This is probably the most common installation, and requires running power cables from either the battery, or a relay with sufficient capacity to power the unit.
  2. Wire the amplifier. You will want to run the power wires, both positive and negative, from a source sufficient to operate your amplifier. You may find some cars have an accessory power block mounted under the hood, or on the fuse block, but if you don't have one, you may have to connect directly to the battery terminals. Either way, use the wire size, or gauge, recommended by the amp maker for length of wire you use. Install an inline fuse near the point where you attach to the car's wiring or battery to avoid a fire if a short occurs.
  3. Hook the speaker output wires to the amplifier on the designated terminals, then rout your speakers wires to the individual speakers. High output amplifiers require much larger speaker wire than do original car maker's components, so upgrade the speaker wire from the amplifier to each speaker.

Things You'll Need

  • Speakers
  • Speaker Wiring Harnesses
  • Amplifier
  • Fuse assembly with correct fuse for your system.
  • Drill
  • Saw (Sabre or jigsaw with metal cutting blade or die grinder)
  • Screwdrivers.
  • Window crank handle removal tool (manufactured for your vehicle).
  • Terminal clips, tape, or other hardware for attaching speaker wires and power cables.

Warnings

  • Make sure any new equipment is sufficiently ventilated to operate properly without damaging it, or causing a fire.
  • Make all connections securely, especially power connections.
  • Use care removing any trim or panels from your car. If you damage these, they can be expensive to replace.

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