Make a Bikini

A new bikini can cost a lot, and you may not even find one that matches both your aesthetic tastes and size. To remedy the problem, try making your own bikini at home. The process is simpler than many people might think.

Steps

Part One: Cut Pieces for the Bikini Top

  1. Measure the distance between your armpits. Subtract 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) from this measurement and write the number down. This will be the length measurement used for your top.[1]
    • Use a cloth tape measure and measure from armpit to armpit, directly over your breasts. Keep the tape measure parallel to the ground.
    • The amount you subtract from this measurement should only vary based on how tight you want the top to be. For a tighter top, subtract 4 inches (10 cm). For a more comfortable fit, subtract 2 inches (5 cm).
  2. Sketch out a rectangle using the right dimensions. Use a ruler the draw a rectangle on your material with a length that matches your previously calculated length dimension. Draw a 5 to 7 inch (12.7 to 18 cm) perpendicular line on each end of this length dimension, then complete the rectangle by drawing in the fourth side.
    • The width of your rectangle will need to vary depending on the size of your chest and how much coverage you want. If you have a larger bust size, more width will give you better coverage.
  3. Cut the rectangle out. Use sharp scissors to cut out the rectangle previously measured. Make sure that your cuts are as straight and clean as possible.
    • This piece will be used for the outer portion of your top.
  4. Cut out a bow shape from your lining material. Lightly sketch the same dimensions used for your main rectangle onto your lining material. Then, sketch out a dip in the center, and draw diagonal lines from each corner connecting to this dip. Cut the shape out when done.
    • Measure out the exact center of your rectangle's length. The dip should be placed there.
    • Draw a vertical line in the center roughly 3 inches (7.6 cm) long. Make the line shorter for a more dramatic dip or longer for a less obvious one.
    • Draw diagonal lines from the top corners to the top of your middle line and diagonal lines from the bottom corners to the bottom of your middle line.
  5. Cut out two straps. Sketch out two rectangles from your main material, each measuring 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide and matching the length of your fabric. Cut out as cleanly as possible.
    • Taper the ends, if desired, or leave the ends in a blunt square cut.
  6. Mark the straps. Draw a two marks near the middle length of each strap. The marks should be spaced apart by the amount of space making up the width of your main piece.
    • Note that these marks indicate the positions at which you will sew the straps to the top.

Part Two: Sew the Bikini Top

  1. Gather the center front of your rectangle. Mark the exact center of your rectangular front piece from the back. Hand sew a gathering stitch along this center line.
    • Thread your needle and knot the end.
    • Sew a long straight stitch down the line, bringing the knot flush against the fabric.
    • From the unknotted end, push the fabric back on the thread, moving it toward the knot, so that the fabric gathers. Continue gathering the thread until the center of your top matches the center of your lining in width.
    • Tie the second end off to secure the gather in place.
    • Note that you may also want to sew over your gathers using a standard stitch several times to reinforce the design.
  2. Sew molded cups into the lining. Use pre-made pads or cups and sew them onto the wrong side of the lining. Pin the pads onto your lining from the wrong side, with any curved portion face-up. Sew the pads to the lining using a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) zig-zag stitch.
    • Position the cups so that the are centered on either side of the lining. They should not extend into the center of the lining or overlap with one another.
    • Make sure that the cups or pads you use fit your chest.
  3. Pin and sew the lining into the top. Match together the lining to the main piece of your top, with the right sides facing together. When the sides appear even, pin, then sew in place with a machine straight stitch or a hand sewn backstitch.
    • At this point, you only need to sew along the top and bottom edges. Do not sew the sides.
  4. Turn the top right side out. Pull the top through one of the openings left on either side so that the right sides of your lining and main piece both face out.
  5. Fold the straps in half. Fold the right sides together lengthwise so that both strips of material are inside out. Pin in place.
  6. Stitch up the straps. Use a straight stitch on your sewing machine to sew a zig-zag stitch down the side of each strap. Do not sew the ends, and leave a gap in between the marks you made on each strap.
    • Turn right side out when done.
  7. Sew the straps to the bikini top. Wedge the sides of your top into the gaps left in your straps. Pin the pieces together, then sew them in place.
    • To make the straps look as neat as possible, sew the back of the strap down first. Once the straps are secure, fold the top of the strap down and make a neat top stitch over the front.
  8. Try your new bikini top on. Tie the tops of your straps together behind your neck and the bottoms together behind your upper back. This completes this half of your bikini.

Part Three: Cut Pieces for the Bikini Bottom

  1. Trace the outline of another pair of bottoms.[2] Open the old bottoms so that the entire piece lies flat on top of your new bikini bottom fabric. Pin in place, then trace the outline.
    • If your old bottoms do not open up at the sides, you may need to snip them open with a pair of scissors.
    • If you do not have an old pair of bottoms, you could use an old pair of panties that you don't mind sacrificing. Make sure that they fit well and that they cover as much skin as you want your bikini bottoms to cover.
  2. Repeat with your lining. Place the open bikini bottom on your lining fabric and trace around the outline there, as well.
  3. Add a seam allowance to the outer piece. Lightly sketch out a seam allowance around the outline you created on your outer fabric. This seam allowance should be 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch (0.635 cm to 1.27 cm) wide.
    • Do not repeat this step with the lining. The outer piece of fabric should be a little bigger than your swimsuit lining.
  4. Cut the pieces out. Use sharp sewing scissors to cut out both pieces from the outer fabric and lining. Make your cuts as clean and even as possible.

Part Four: Sew the Bikini Bottom

  1. Sew the lining and fabric together at the center.[3] With the right sides together, place the lining on top of the outer fabric, centering it as best as possible. Pin in place, then machine sew a straight stitch down the center of your open bottoms.
    • The center here refers to the portion of material that will eventually lie between your legs and become the bottom of your bikini.
    • Make sure that the seam allowance is the same around all sides when you pin the pieces together.
  2. Fold the outer fabric over the lining. Fold the seam allowance of the outer fabric over the lining piece around all edges. Pin it in place.
  3. Sew around half the perimeter. Use a zig-zag stitch or straight stitch to sew both long sides together. Leave the shorter sides, which will eventually go around your waist, open.
    • Stretch the fabric and lining as much as possible when sewing the pieces together, especially if using the straight stitch.
    • Turn the material right-side-out when done.
  4. Stitch up the sides. Fold the bottoms in half crosswise, bringing the waist portions together. Stitch up both sides with a zig-zag stitch, using a 1/4 inch (0.635 cm) seam allowance on either side.
    • When you sew the sides together, make sure that the bottoms are lining-side-out.
  5. Hem the top. Fold the top down so that the seam allowance of the outer material completely covers the lining. Pin in place, then sew with a zig-zag stitch or straight stitch.
    • Again, keep the material and lining as stretched as possible, especially when using a straight stitch.
    • If you want a shorter waist, you can make the hem larger than the seam allowance calls for.
    • Flip the bottoms when you finish sewing so that the outer fabric faces out again.
  6. Try your bikini bottoms on. You should be able to slip them on over your legs. With the completion of this step, your new bikini bottoms—and your bikini overall—are now finished.

Things You'll Need

  • 1/2 yd (1/2 m) nylon lycra/spandex
  • 1/2 yd (1/2 m) swimsuit lining material
  • Pre-made waterproof bra cups or pads
  • Measuring tape
  • Sewing needle
  • Sewing machine
  • Coordinating thread
  • Sewing scissors
  • Straight pins
  • Chalk or fabric pencil
  • Old bikini bottoms

Sources and Citations