Make a Chinese Puzzle



The ingenious puzzle of the Chinese type is probably older than many of us could guess, but it is a puzzle that can be made by any woodworker. The complete article may be called, in form, a six-pointed pyramid.

Steps

  1. Prepare the pieces required. In making these twenty-one pieces, what should be borne in mind is that the different parts fit closely into each other. Consequently the slots, in width, must be cut so as to grip the thickness of the wood; in depth they must be exactly half this thickness:

    • Six pieces, {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} long, with a half slot cut in the centre as shown. This slot must be exactly the width of the wood's thickness, and cut exactly halfway through, so that, if two pieces are placed across by means of the halved joint, their surfaces will be flush. The slot must also be exactly in the centre.
    • Six pieces, size 2 1/2 ins. long, with a half-cut centre slot similar to the previous slot.
    • Six required, these being 1 1/2 ins. in length, and with slots in the middle as before.
    • One of these last six requires special treatment, as it forms the key block of the puzzle. After its slot has been cut, one half of the narrow part must be sawn away, as shown. The inner edge must also be gently rounded. The special use of this vital piece, which we will call the "key," will be fully explained presently.
    • In addition to these, there are three central bars to make. Like the other parts they are 1/2 in. by 1/2 in., but are each {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} long, and are cut as shown. The end projections a are 1/2 in. long, and the cut-away part is exactly half the depth of the wood. Two of the three pieces (X and Y in Fig. 374) are similar, but the slot b of the third one (Z) is only {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} wide instead of {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}}. As will be noticed, this {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} slot is not in the centre, but corresponds with the right-hand half of the larger slots of X and Y.
  2. Fit the puzzle together. The three central bars must first be joined, as those form the skeleton framework of the structure. This illustration shows them in position, but as it is a puzzle in itself as to how they can be got thus some explanation is necessary.
  3. Make the First Stage. First take the bars X and Y (see Figure E) and arrange them as shown in Figure G.

    • It is most important that the projections a of "X" face upwards, and that the projections a of "Y" face towards the centre.
    • Then take the bar "Z" and bring it flat into the slot of "X". The little slot of "Z", however, must remain above the slot of "X".
    • Then slide the bar "Y" along to the centre, so that the part lettered "c" slips into the little slot of bar "Z".
    • This may seem confusing to read, but it is easy to follow when the pieces are in one's hand. The result of this rather clever arrangement is that the six arms of Figure F are all exactly the same length, width, and thickness. They are also arranged so that in each arm may be clasped one piece each of Figures A, B, and C. The three central arms may, of course, be set up in a different order, and here we have merely chosen the way that is the most simple to describe and illustrate.
  4. Make the Second Stage. In the remaining part of the work, the chief difficulty is to keep the puzzle from falling to pieces before the key finally locks it. Take the longer cross parts, Figure A, and clasp one to each arm. The six need not all be put on meanwhile, but only those which are most easily handled. The next size (Figure B) may then be put on.
  5. Create the key. In the ordinary course, each arm could be completed with its three cross pieces until the sixth is attempted, and here the reader would find that, at the last moment, the attempt will be frustrated. You will not get the last small piece in, as other bars lock the puzzle. Here it is that the "key" comes in.

    • Three of the arms may straight away be fitted complete with their three cross parts. These are the ones where the longer crosspiece (Figure A) lies flush with the back of the central bar (shown in Figure H). This is easily found out when at work on the puzzle.
    • In the case of the other three arms there is, of course, a gap caused by the long slots of the central bars. Adjust the parts on the first-named three arms, and then deal with the fourth arm, putting in all three cross parts. For the little one here, use the "key".
  6. Put the "key" in place. Place the "key" so that it overlaps the end projection of the arm (Figure I). A space is left at the centre, and means is thus afforded for getting in the three cross parts on the remaining two arms.
    • This practically ends the puzzle. While the "key" is in its overlapping position the parts may be separated, but if it is turned round on its narrow neck, so that it is in exactly the same position as the other five small cross parts, it locks the whole thing so tightly that nothing but sheer force could loosen the twenty-one pieces.
  7. Place together. So far as the order of putting together is concerned, there are many equally satisfactory ways, these being determined by the ease or difficulty that one experiences in holding the half-finished puzzle. It all comes to the same in the end, and the "key" must be placed on one bar before the last three arms can be completed. The "key," moreover, must be on one of the bars where a gap is left at the centre, and not on one where Figure A lies flush against the central arm as in Figure H.
  8. Undo the puzzle. To take the puzzle to pieces, all that is required is to turn the "key" half round and push the other two cross bars on that arm towards the outer point. The cross bars below may then be removed, and the whole structure falls to pieces.

Things You'll Need

  • Twenty-one different pieces, each cut from wood {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} wide and {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} thick; {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} wood may be used if preferred
  • For the purpose, either sycamore or white maple is the most useful

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Sources and Citations

  • Author Unknown, Woodwork Joints; public domain resource - this eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at Gutenberg. Original source of article.

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