Make a Custom Corset Pattern

If you're headed out to a Renaissance Fair, working in a period play, or just want to have some fun, here is how to out together a corset pattern.

Steps

Taking Your Measurements

  1. Take careful measurements. You'll need to measure the following:
    • Bust
    • Waist: This measurement should be taken at the natural waist, near your bellybutton.
    • Waist to Underarm Measurement: Starting at your side, measure the distance from your waist to an inch or so beneath the armpit or to the top edge of your bra.
    • Center Front: This will be the height in the front. A good starting length is {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}}, but you may need more or less depending on your back waist length. This length will increase or decrease depending on the style of corset you want as well.

Making the Corset Pattern

  1. Create a one inch grid on either large paper or newsprint. This grid will be your starting point for creating your custom pattern.
    • Note: you can purchase poster board already grid-lined in one inch increments to use for this purpose if you like.
  2. Draw a vertical line along the right side of your grid paper. Make the vertical line the length of your center front length. (this will be the center front of your corset, use it as the starting place for your remaining pattern.) For example, if the front center length was 12, you would draw a {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} vertical line.
  3. Divide your bust measurement by 2. For example, if your bust is {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}}, 36 divided by two is 18.
  4. Draw a horizontal line connecting from the top edge of your vertical line. The length of this line should be half your bust measurement. Subtract one more inch from this length. For our example of {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}}, half would be 18, one inch less would be {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}}.
  5. The next point (let's call this point "X") on your pattern will take into account your bra cup size and over all circumference. You want a point approximately 2/7ths or 28% of your bust measurement to the left. And the point should be down from the top line by two inches plus {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} per cup size. Using a 36C, the point would be 36 divided by .28 over to the left of the original vertical line. The point would be one inch down for an A cup, {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} down for a B cup, and {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} down for a C cup. (2.5 for a D, 3.0 for a DD, etc) This is the underarm point.
  6. Transfer the distance down from the last step over to the left end of your horizontal line. You can call this point "Y".
  7. Divide the distance between the front vertical line and the point X into half. Measure that half distance out along your horizontal line from the right side and mark it. Call this point "Z".
  8. Connect X, Y and Z. Make your line a flowing curve rather than sharply angled. You now have the top edge of your Corset!
  9. Divide your waist measurement in half. From the bottom of the vertical line on the right, measure out half your waist measurement and mark the end of it. Let's call this point M.
  10. Bring down the line from point X above until in touches the bottom waistline. Mark the point where the line from X intersects the bottom "waist" line. Call that intersection "N".
  11. Draw a line from Y down to M. This is your back seam line.
  12. From point N, move up the grid an inch and a half. Mark the point as "O".
  13. Draw a curve up from M through O back to the bottom of your right hand vertical line.
  14. Done. You now have a pattern that you can follow for sewing up your Renaissance Fair corset.

Tips

  • Use brocade, which is strongly associated with Victorian times.
  • Have the corset end several inches below the waist, flaring out and emphasizing the hourglass shape.

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Sources and Citations

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