Open Your Swimming Pool for Spring

Pool openings in the Northeast US typically cost in the range $175-$300. You can often save money by doing some of the work yourself, i.e., removing the cover, or vacuuming the pool. Here is a list of things you can do yourself to help lower the cost of opening your pool in the spring.

Steps

Remove the Pool Cover

Solid Covers

  1. Use a small cover pump to remove rain and snow melt. As the water is being pumped, "tighten up" the cover by pulling on its edges, so the water gathers into one easily pumped area. A "bag type" leaf net and your pool brush on the pole can be used to remove leaves and debris.
  2. After water and debris is removed, drain water bags (or remove whatever is being used to hold down sides of cover). Water bags can be folded or rolled after being hosed clean.
  3. Remove cover quickly by fan-folding it into {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} folds on one end of the pool. Take cover to open area where it can be unfolded and hosed clean. A sloping yard or driveway makes this easier.
  4. When cover is cleaned, allow to dry or use blower to hasten drying. Fan fold (accordion-style) cover to facilitate its installation in the fall.
  5. Roll tightly and wrap with rope or twine to prevent it from unrolling during storage. Place in a dry, rodent free location for its summer storage.

Mesh Covers

  1. Use broom, brush, leaf net, hose and/or blower to remove leaves and debris from top and edges of cover.
  2. Remove springs from anchors with removal tool.
  3. Use 3/4" pipe to lever springs from anchors, if removal tool cannot be located.
  4. Use 1/4" hex key (Allen wrench) to put anchors into the down position, flush with the deck. It's good practice to clean with hose and lubricate with a light oil.
  5. Fan fold cover (accordion-style) to facilitate its re-installation in the fall.
  6. Use hose, broom or blower to clean off cover as it's folded. Fold it seam to seam, then roll like a sleeping bag and stuff it into storage bag.
  7. Place on chair to dry for a few hours before moving it INDOORS for summer storage.
  8. If storing outdoors, hang up off the ground, and / or use moth balls to repel rodents from nesting in the cover.

Restarting the Filter/Pump System

  1. Remove expansion plugs (Freeze Plugs) from skimmers and wall returns
  2. Put plugs in Ziploc bag and place near cover for use. Discard any that are dry-rotted and/or cracked. Replace any wall fittings.
  3. Reassemble filter, pump, heater, etc.
  4. Replace drain plugs into pump, filter, heater, chlorinator, etc. If above-ground pool, reattach hoses removed at closing.
  5. Replace pump and skimmer baskets, pressure gauges, pool ladders, diving boards etc.
  6. Use thread sealant such as Teflon tape on all threaded plugs, connections. Do not over-tighten!
  7. If your filter is a D.E. powder tight filter, make sure clamp band is tight and properly positioned. (It was probably removed in the fall to have the filter grids pulled out and cleaned with a hose, so make sure it was re-installed correctly).
  8. Place filter valve to filter position and open air bleeder (beneath pressure gauge, usually).
  9. Open all incoming valves (before pump) and all return side valves (after filter).
  10. Lubricate valves and o-rings as needed. Fill pump basket with water from pool or hose.
  11. Replace pump lid tightly. Look for leaks out of pump. Double check that all valves and pressure relief orifices are open.
  12. Place filter valve in proper position.
  13. Slide valves (push-pull valves) should be in the down position on most DE filters and in the up position for Pac-Fab sand filters. Multiport valves should be on the filter position. (Or you can start the pump with the valve in the Drain to Waste position, and when water begins to run out the waste line, shut off the pump. Place valve into the Recirculate position and run pump until water flows into the pool. Shut off pump, switch the valve to the Filter position to complete the process.)
  14. Turn on power to pump & start system Watch pressure on gauge closely with your hand on power switch! Turn off if pressure rises above normal range; usually above 30 psi.
  15. Recheck that all return side valves are open. If no pressure builds up at all, and pump is not pumping, shut off power after 1 minute.
  16. Repeat priming process mentioned before. If pump still won't prime up, try closing main drain valve, if present, and starting off the skimmer alone. If pump still won't catch prime after 5 or so attempts, check incoming pipes for air leaks.
  17. Repair as needed. Add 1 lb of DE powder per 5 sq. ft of filter area into the skimmer (only if you have a DE filter, of course). Do this quickly, within 2 minutes of starting filter. If you have a cartridge filter replace cartridge element every 2 years. Sand filters should have their sand changed every 5 years.
  18. Once system is started, adjust valves and return fittings for proper flow. Check for leaks around pump and filter; repair as needed. Note start-up pressure on filter gauge. When psi is 10 lbs above this number, backwash the filter. Empty pump basket also at this time, or earlier if you notice a drop in filter pressure. If you have a heater, follow pilot lighting and test firing instructions, usually printed on back of front heater door. Operate to test and adjust all other equipment.

Maintenance

  1. Perform inspections. Spring opening time is ideal for annual preventative maintenance steps such as cleaning, lubricating, inspecting and replacing components in all of your system equipment. Consult your owner's manual and give everything a good inspection. Look for and correct hazardous electrical conditions, such as broken conduit or connectors, lack of proper grounding or bonding, wires exposed to weather, etc. Inspect pool for tripping and slipping hazards. Check again for pressure leaks which may result in pipes or equipment blowing apart. Note water level and watch the pool for leakage during the following few days.
  2. Clean pool. Skim pool, vacuum pool, brush pool. Leaf rake (bag) types skim nets are best, also useful for scooping large amounts of leaves/debris from pool floor. If pool is especially silty or has lots of algae, Vacuum Pool to Waste. This means to bypass the filter, and vacuum dirt from floors/walls out the backwash line. This prevents constant clogging/cleaning of filter. To do this, you may need to fill pool to the very top, so you can waste 1-3". Place the multiport filter valve on drain to waste position (usually 2pm, if viewed as a clock face) If you have a push-pull filter valve, or a cartridge type filter there is no easy way to vacuum to waste, except for cutting the pipe coming out of the pump and then reconnecting afterwards. Brush the pool thoroughly.
  3. Check and balance chemistry. Use a good quality pool water test kit. Replace test kit reagents every spring (annually). Follow pool water test instructions carefully to obtain accurate results.
    • Alkalinity first. If below the range of 80 - 120 ppm, add Total Alkalinity Increaser (Sodium Bicarbonate or baking soda) at a rate of 1 lb per {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} to raise Alkalinity levels 10 ppm. Calcium level should be 180 - 220 ppm. Add Calcium Hardness Increaser (Calcium Chloride) at a rate of 1 lb per {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} to raise Calcium levels 5 ppm. Test pH level after water has circulated 8 hrs. pH level should be 7.4 - 7.6, add pH Increaser (soda ash or sodium carbonate) if the water is acidic/ corrosive (below 7.4). Add pH Decreaser (muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate) if water is basic/ scaling (above 7.6). A good test kit will allow you to perform an acid demand or base demand test to determine exact amounts of acid or base needed (demanded). A clarifier may be used to help filter efficiency. After balanced chemicals have been circulated for 8 hrs, shock or super-chlorinate the pool. Add granular Shock Treatment (Calcium Hypochlorite) to pool at a rate of 1 lb per {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}}, or use Clorox Bleach (Sodium Hypochlorite) at a rate of {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} per 10,000 gallons/pool water. Cyanuric Acid levels should be tested if chlorine is used (outdoor pools only). Add CYA (Conditioner or Stabilizer) to raise if Cyanuric Acid levels are below 30 - 50 ppm.
  4. Always read instructions on packaging for proper handling, treatments and application of the pool chemicals. Distribute them broadly and never mix chemicals. Brushing pool after adding chemicals is helpful to distribution. Re-test water daily and readjust if needed. Backwash filter after 24 hrs. If algae is still present, re-shock pool, or add "kill" dosage of quality algaecide. Your pool is ready for use when chlorine level drops below 3.0 ppm, and water is clear. It may be a good move to have an annual check-up to your pool by a pool professional, which is why many people use pool companies to open the pool. If there is a pool store nearby, you should at least take a water sample in to be tested by another test kit.

Tips

  • If you didn't really winterize the pool, but rather reduced the amount of filter time and attention you gave the pool, then you can probably skip items 1-3 above. But follow 4-7 to keep things sanitary and working safe and properly. Again, consider hiring a professional pool company, at least once annually to double check your work and spot problems or maintenance items you may have missed.

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