Perm Your Hair

A permanent wave, also known as a perm, is a chemical hair treatment that can be used to add curl and body to your hair. Every perm has two parts: the physical wrapping of the hair into shapes and a chemical bath that breaks and then reforms the disulphide bonds of your hair. Although uncommon, you can do a perm yourself at home, and if you choose to go to a salon, it can be helpful if you can accurately and exactly describe what you want.

Steps

Getting Ready to Perm

  1. Be sure that a perm is really what you want. As the name implies, a perm is permanent - you'll grow out new hair that won't be permed, but the rest of it will be curled for up to six months, and a little less curly still after that. If you only want curly hair a few days a week, try hot rollers or a curling iron instead; if you want curly, wavy, or hair with body every day, a perm is the way to go.
  2. Know your hair type. It is critical to know what type of hair you have and what condition your hair is in. This is an important first step in determining the kind of perm to get and mitigating adverse effects like hair loss and breakage.
    • Resistant hair, resistant gray hair, Asian hair, hair with low elasticity, fine hair, and coarse or strong hair are usually best treated with an alkaline perm.
    • Healthy hair with good elasticity, tinted hair, damaged hair, highlighted hair, or fragile hair are permed with a milder acid perm.
    • If you have hair that has been extensively color treated or damaged, or if you have typical African-American hair, it's probably best to visit a salon. Find a stylist who specializes in working with hair like yours to minimize damage.
  3. Get a haircut first. It'll be more difficult (though not impossible) to cut your hair after you have a perm, so trim up any split ends beforehand.
    • Decide what to do with your bangs (optional). If you have bangs, try to have a plan for them before you perm. Be aware that permed bangs can look particularly fluffy; if this isn't the look you want, you might want to wait a month or two for them to grow out before you get a perm. If you do decide to go with a perm while you have bangs, ask yourself: Are you going to keep them straight? Are you going to perm them?
  4. Also decide where you want the perm to start. If you get it all the way to the roots, remember that new hair that isn't permed will be visible.
  5. Decide whether you want a salon perm or a home perm. It's possible to perm your hair at home, and it's a bit less expensive that way. However, if you go to a stylist, you can trust that he or she has probably done several perms, and will remedy any mistakes for free. Consider these points:
    • If you're attempting a subtle perm, visit a stylist. You might accidentally over-process your hair on your own.
    • If your hair is significantly damaged or has been extensively color treated, it's probably best to book an appointment at a salon. Damaged hair will react differently to a perm than healthy hair will, and a trained stylist will know how to bridge the difference.
    • If your hair is already a bit wavy or kinky, try to find a stylist who specializes in working with such hair. He or she will be able to ensure that you come out with a smooth permed look, instead of having curls with intermittent kinks.
    • If you have fairly healthy hair with plenty of elasticity, you've done an at-home perm before, or you're generally an expert at doing your own hair, you can probably get away with perming your hair at home.
  6. Decide what sort of perm you want. Do you want small, tight curls? Or maybe you want larger, bouncy curls? Whatever it is, get a good idea of what you expect before you set out to perm your hair.
    • Understand that your hair will be tighter when it first comes out of the curlers than it will be for the duration of your perm. The curls will "fall" a bit as time goes on. It might be a good idea, then, to perm your hair just a little more tightly than you want it.
  7. Set aside plenty of time. A perm can take anywhere from 2 to 4 hours to accomplish. After that, you'll have to let the perm "set" for 24 hours, which means no washing or styling your hair, and no pulling it back. Additionally, you won't be able to wash your hair until 48 hours after the perm. Make sure your schedule can accommodate these limits.

Perming Your Hair at Home

  1. Consider enlisting the help of a friend. It can be difficult to work with the hair at the back of your head, and you'll be working within some time constraints. Having a friend to help you speed along the process and make sure the rollers are tight can ease your mind.
  2. Purchase an at-home perm kit. These can usually be found at supermarkets, pharmacies, or beauty supply stores.
  3. Read and understand the directions. If you've having someone help you, make sure he or she reads the instructions as well. Pay particular attention to any time limits.
  4. Comb hair and get all the knots out.
  5. Shampoo your hair. Use a rich protein conditioning treatment (one might have come with the kit you purchased). You should NEVER condition your hair before a perm as the perm solution won't get into the hair properly will not set properly.
    • Do not wrap your hair in towel turban when you get out of the shower. The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully pat your hair with a towel until it's more damp than wet.
    • If you must comb your hair again, carefully and gently comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the ends toward the scalp.
  6. Wear the correct safety equipment. Perm chemicals are not designed for use on the skin. Always wear gloves that will resist the chemicals (usually any kind of plastic glove will work).
  7. Protect the skin around your neck, face and scalp using a petroleum jelly like Vaseline. Don't forget your ears! Outline the entire crown of your head with the jelly. This will keep any of the chemicals from dripping down your skin.
  8. Put an old towel around your shoulders. Underneath the towel, wear clothing that you wouldn't be heartbroken to lose, such as an old T-shirt and sweatpants.
  9. Split your hair into four equal sections. Use non-metallic clips to hold back the sections you're not working with at the moment. You can also use any hair clips 
  10. Place the rods. There are many kinds of rods available to produce a variety of different kinds of perm.
    • When wrapping the hair, start and the top and wrap down.
    • Put on perm paper on the back of hair and front and roll hair on to rods.
    • Avoid bunching or clumping your hair around the rods.
    • The tightness of the curl depends on the size of the rod. The tightness of the wrap and how long the perm solution stays in the hair.
    • For the most natural-looking curls, use a straight or cylindrical rod. This allows you to wrap your hair around the rod at the same width from top to bottom.
    • Unless you are very confident in your abilities, avoid the home use of spiral or concave rods.
  11. Apply the perm solution. Begin at the scalp, as that gives it longer to work in that area. Carefully massage the perm solution into all of your hair.
  12. Keep the solution at the correct temperature. Leave the perm solution in for the amount of time needed for your desired effect.
  13. Rinse the perm solution out of your hair completely. It is vital to get rid of all of the solution.
  14. Apply a professional neutralizer. The neutralizing solution begins the process of re-forming the broken proteins in your hair.
  15. Carefully towel dry or blot your hair. Hold your head upside down and shake it gently. Be sure not to let the towel damage your new curls as it will take up to 24 hours for your perm to set. Do not comb your hair while perm is in, only massage or blot.
  16. Permed hair needs a great deal of attention and care. Learning to care for your perm is an important step in any hair regimen.

Perming Your Hair at a Salon

  1. Communicate exactly what you want. During the consultation with your stylist before your perm, tell him or her exactly what you expect from the process. Outline how you usually style your hair, how big you want the curls to be, and which products you tend to use.
    • Know that a perm that results in larger, looser curls is sometimes referred to as a body wave. If this is what you want, use that term to communicate it to your stylist.
  2. Plan to spend up to 4 hours at the salon. If you think you'll get bored, grab a few magazines from the reception area, or bring a paperback book that you won't mind losing if it gets chemicals dripped onto it.
  3. If the smell becomes unbearable, ask your stylist for a wet washcloth. The chemicals used to perm hair can smell noxious, and might irritate your nose. If this begins to happen, request a damp washcloth and hold it over your nose and mouth, breathing through it.
    • If the chemicals start irritating your eyes, keep them closed. It won't last forever.
  4. Evaluate your style when the process is over. Keep in mind that your curls will be a little tighter immediately after the perm than they will be in a few days. If you're unhappy with any aspect of the style, tell your stylist your concerns before you leave the salon. He or she can make plans to address any lapses as soon as possible.

Tips

  • It is far better to let your hair dry naturally after a perm. If you must use a hair dryer, make sure you use one with a diffuser to avoid further damage.
  • Carefully towel blot your hair dry after a wash. Avoid tangles as it can damage the hair perm.
  • As perm grows, spray a volumizing product to the roots and blow dry at the scalp to create added lift.
  • Never ever comb your hair when it is still setting from the perm solution.
  • Aggressive shampooing must be avoided. Use conditioners specially created for permed hair.
  • It is very important to remember to not wash your hair until 48 hours after the perm.
  • Have your hair trimmed every 5 weeks or so to remove split ends and unwanted growth out of your curls.
  • Before you get your perm, make sure you use bar soap to wash your hair instead of shampoo, so the oils will get out of your hair.
  • When perming wear old clothes because clothes may get ruined.
  • After your perm, use specially designed hair care products like conditioners designed for permed hair. Products known as rejuvenators are used to keep your perm in good shape. These products will also add shine and body to your hair. Consider the use of a mister for these products.
  • Don't lay your head down when you first get a perm because it will permanently make marks on your hair.
  • Shampoo with daily clarifying shampoo before perming. It will help remove any unnecessary oils and debris from the hair but gentle enough it can be used every day.

Warnings

  • Too much perming or a perm done incorrectly can seriously damage your hair, leaving it brittle and thin. Always consult a professional hair stylist if this happens to you.
  • A bad perm or a perm that does not "take" can be difficult to remove.
  • Select individuals, especially redheads, have hair that is naturally resistant to perms. Red hair contains more sulfur than other types. This resistance is an inherited or genetic trait. The only solution is to use a stronger perm solution than you usually would. However, this may damage the hair so badly it can break.
  • Colored hair should not be permed. Color your hair after the perm. If you must perm colored or tinted hair, mix the bottle that says color activator with the perm.
  • If your scalp starts to burn unbearably while perm is activating, immediately wash out the solution

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Things You'll Need

  • Shampoo
  • Conditioner
  • Plastic gloves to protect your fingers
  • Scissors or big pin to cut or puncture the solution bottles
  • An old towel to wrap around your head to soak up drips
  • Petroleum jelly to protect your head, face, ears, neck
  • Plastic shower cap or food wrap to cover the curls while the perm works. A non-metallic clip to hold the plastic in place if you're using wrap instead of a cap
  • Wet towel or sponge to wipe drips from your skin
  • Timer
  • Perm and neutralizer solution
  • 25-35 Perm rods to wrap your hair around
  • End paper to keep the ends flat

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Sources and Citations

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