Refinish a Dresser

Refinishing an old dresser is a fantastic way of giving it a whole new look and cleanliness for its next decade or so of use. It's not technically hard to refinish a dresser but it does require elbow grease and setting aside a reasonable amount of time, such as a weekend or several slots of time here and there.

Steps

Removing the old surface

1. Determine what the old surface is. Usually it is paint and perhaps some varnish but it might be simply one or the other. Or, the old finish might be wax, a stain, shellac or something else. If you can't work out what it is, ask someone who is likely to know to help you. It is important to be sure, as the different finishes will require different removal techniques.
2. Choose the right method for removing the old surface. Once you know what the surface is, here is a selection of ways to strip the surface:
   • How to strip wood finishes and varnish
   • How to strip paint
   • How to strip latex paint from wood
   • How to remove a shellac finish.

Preparing the dresser for a refinish surface

1. Place the dresser somewhere that can handle making a mess. This might be the backyard if the weather is good, the garage floor or a hobby room with plenty of ventilation and tarps on the floor.
2. Remove all of the drawers from the dresser. Place them on the ground singly (don't layer them), so that they can be attended to individually.
3. Begin sanding. In conjunction with the method specified for the old surface your dresser has on it (see articles suggested above), proceed to sanding off the surface. Even if you've used paint stripper, a hot-air gun, etc. to remove most of the old surface, sanding is still essential for removing any leftover stubborn or awkward spots, as well as smoothing the surface in readiness for the refinish. In general, the following things will apply to the sanding process:
   • If removing the old surface completely by sanding: Sanding a dresser will take a decent amount of time. You may need to set aside several days or slots in a row to complete this part. Start with a lower level of sanding grit, such as 150 grit, then work your way up to 200 to 300, depending on the surface. Each grade will do remove different parts of the surface, so don't skip the gradual changes in sanding grit levels.
   • While an electric sander is usually fine for large areas of the dresser, you'll still need to use a sanding block wrapped with sandpaper for tighter and harder-to-reach areas, such as corners or scorch marks, and more delicate surfaces, such as around decorative elements.
   • Stubborn areas of old finish may need special attention with a tool such as a razor blade, chisel, steel wool or similar, to lift off stuck or tough portions. Use with care. If you were removing the surface with paint stripper or a hot-air gun, all loose and blobbed paint and varnish should be removed first.

Attending to repairs

1. Undertake any repairs that may be needed before refinishing the surface. For a dresser, check that the following things are in good working order (and if not, repair them):
   • The drawers slide in and out without sticking.
   • The drawers are intact, have no nails or other sharp objects sticking out anywhere and have no broken bits.
   • Check that the legs are sturdy and that the dresser does not wobble. Test this on an even surface, otherwise you might assume that the dresser is uneven when it's actually the floor.
   • There are no unsightly indentations or scratches. If there are, treat these with an appropriate wood-filling agent and sand off before adding the refinish.
   • If the dresser has a mirror, check for cracks, chips or spotting. Mirrors can be DIY repaired to a certain extent, but you may wish to seek the advice of an expert.
   • If the dresser has spindles, check that these are in good order, without chips or cracks, etc.
   • If the dresser has doors, check that the hinges are in good condition. If not, replace these with nice new ones.

Refinishing the dresser

1. Decide on how you will refinish the dresser. Once the hard work of preparing the dresser is over, the fun part begins. Which refinish will you use? Each finish has its own special look, with some more complicated to apply than others. Some suggestions include:
   • New paintwork (acrylic, enamel, dual colors, a pattern, a design, etc.)
   • Spray painting
   • Distressed painting
   • A paint wash
   • Wood stains with wax
   • Wax alone
   • Varnish or varnish stains
   • Oils
   • French polish
   • Lacquered finishes (hard for non-professionals but black japanned finishes are one possibility)
   • Decoupage
   • Fabric.
2. The following sections cover paintwork, waxing and using oils as refinish surfaces.

Painted refinish

Paintwork is probably the most versatile refinish that you can use. It can be a single color, two colors or many colors. It can be made to look glossy, matte or distressed. You can even add a design, stencil or pattern.

1. Choose a paint type. The most popular paint for wooden surfaces is water-based acrylic. It's easy to apply, the paintbrushes wash out easily in water and the finish is smooth and durable. Enamel paint can provide a lovely glossy finish but it is slower to work with and the brushes require cleaning in mineral turpentine, which means more effort, odor and longer drying time.
   • In general, enamel paint should be preferred where the dresser will get a lot of wear and tear (such as in a children's playroom or in a retail outlet). Acrylic paint will be fine for a dresser not likely to get too much buffeting.

Painting the dresser with acrylic paint

1. Prepare the dresser as above.
2. Paint the first layer of acrylic paint. This becomes the undercoat. Paint the entire dresser shell, then paint each individual drawer. For drawers, only the outer portion on show needs painting. Allow all to dry.
3. Use a soft, clean rag to wipe over the dried painted pieces of the dresser. This will remove any dust or grit that may have attached to the surface during drying.
4. Paint the next layer. This is the second layer of undercoat. Allow to dry.
5. Sand the paint. Use a 240 grit sandpaper and sand gently over all of the paintwork. Dust with the clean cloth.
6. Paint the next layer. This is the first layer of top coat and it needs to be perfect; remove drips if they form as you paint.
7. Use a smaller brush for any ornate parts of the dresser. Allow to dry.
8. Sand again. Dust with the clean cloth.
9. Paint the final topcoat layer. Let dry.
10. Reassemble the dresser. It should look brand new and ready for use.

Painting the dresser with enamel paint

1. Prepare the dresser as above.
2. Paint the dresser frame and the drawers. For drawers, only the outer portion on show needs painting. Allow all to dry; this is now the undercoat layer.
3. Sand the undercoat layer lightly with 220 grit sandpaper. Don't press too hard or you'll sand through to the wood. Wipe the dust off with a soft, clean rag.
   • If you do sand too deeply, repaint the undercoat on that spot before painting the next layer.
4. Paint the next layer. This becomes the top coat. Allow to dry.
   • Paint with long brush strokes and light pressure. Only use the tip of the paintbrush bristles.
5. Sand lightly with 320 grit sandpaper. Again, do not press too hard or you'll need to reapply the paint if you reach the undercoat or wood.
6. Paint the final coat. Use the same long, gentle strokes from the tip of the paintbrush to get a perfect finish. Let dry.
7. Reassemble the dresser. The refinish will be glossy, shiny and durable.

Wax refinish

This is a simple finish that works well for wood that you feel has an interesting texture, color or grain.

1. Prepare the dresser as above.
2. Choose a wax. Furniture wax is a good option, or you might like to try beeswax. You'll also need a nylon scourer or a steel wool pad to apply the wax with (the "applicator").
3. Apply plenty of wax to the applicator. Rub onto the dresser frame wood, rubbing into the wood grain.
   • Use even strokes and avoid allowing the wax to build up in any single area.
4. Let sit for a few minutes.
5. Rub the waxed area with a clean cloth. Rub continuously until the surface stops feeling sticky and feels smooth. This will take quite some time, so get into the rhythm and keep rubbing.
   • Keep your hands behind the cloth at all times; this will ensure that your natural body grease doesn't also transfer to the wood surface. For the hand holding the furniture, either wear a cotton glove or hold the furniture with another clean rag between your hand and the wood surface.
   • Turn the cloth around regularly to move to a cleaner part of it. The cloth will eventually get its own build-up and you may need several cloths to complete the whole dresser.
6. Repeat for the drawers.
7. Repeat the process again. Add the wax layer again, then rub continuously to make it smooth. The dresser surface should have at least two wax layers added to it; more is great if you can, as the more layers of wax added, the better the finish will look.
8. When you're happy with the finish, stop adding layers of wax. Consider whether you want to leave the dresser waxed as it is now, or whether you wish to seal in the surface with a varnish. Either way is acceptable, but be aware that an unvarnished waxed surface is more fragile and can be marked easily.
9. Reassemble the dresser. Carefully return it to its home spot, ready for use.

Oiled refinish

Oiled finishes are used where you'd really like the wood grain and texture to be the feature. You can't clean oiled finishes with furniture polish and stains tend to stay if they occur, so bear this in mind when choosing this refinish option.

1. Choose a finishing oil. Linseed oil is the most common oil used for oiling furniture pieces but there are other oils available––ask your retailer for specific advice.
2. Prepare the dresser as above. The dresser should be finely sanded and any blemishes treated with a filler that exactly matches the wood.
   • If there are any stains or color variations in the wood, stain these to match the surrounding wood before proceeding.
3. Brush the dresser frame and drawers with the oil. Use a normal wide paintbrush that you'd use for painting the dresser. Be generous––the wood will soak up the oil to begin with.
4. Brush oil into any areas that dry. These areas need more oil.
5. Allow the oil to soak in. The time for this varies between 15-45 minutes, depending on the timber, its age and condition, and the oil. The humidity and temperature will also impact the time it takes for the oil to penetrate the wood––it will likely be faster in warmer weather and slower when cooler.
6. Repeat. Brush on a new layer of oil. The dresser will need about 5 to 6 layers of oil to provide a sufficiently durable surface. The finish will also look better for more oil layers.
7. Reassemble the dresser. Place it back in its usual spot, ready for reuse. Keep an eye on its condition; oiled surfaces are the one surface that will need regular maintenance to keep the sheen. Rub in more oil every few months or half yearly, to keep the oiled appearance at its best and to continue protecting the dresser.
   • When cleaning, rub with the grain. Add a few drops of oil to restore sheen for cleaning, and simply buff.

Tips

• Don't forget the drawer and/or door knobs of a dresser. Change these to lovely new ones and the dresser will look like new.
• While sanding, remove the build-up of old finish from the sanding paper using a razor blade, tweezers or steel wool.
• Some dressers have doors as well as drawers. Treat these as for the dresser frame, unless you wish to unscrew them, then treat as for the drawers.
• Fabric pieces can be applied to the drawer fronts of a dresser if wished. These can brighten up a boring dresser and can match a theme, such as the décor used in a child's room.

Warnings

• Treat used furniture for borers and other insect damage before refinishing. If you ignore the signs of insect infestation, you may be bringing a pest into your home that will not only continue chewing away a the dresser but will migrate to other pieces of furniture too. Use professional solutions for treating destructive insects inside furniture.
• Do not oil or wax the base of the dresser. This will cause the dresser to be slippery and the oil or wax will stain the floor surface.
• When sanding, it is recommended that you wear a mask and goggles, to protect your respiratory system and eyes from potential dust and other hazards.
• If working with chemical strippers, always read the instructions for use carefully and follow them assiduously. Work in a well-ventilated area at all times.

Things You'll Need

• Any specific surface removal agents as per relevant method used
• Sander
• Sanding paper of varying grits
• Refinish of choice
• Paintbrushes
• Soft clean rags
• Applicators relevant to surface

See also

• Ombre Paint a Dresser
• Decoupage a Chair
• Paint a Fabric Chair
• Paint Laminate Furniture
• Remove Shellac
• Wax Furniture
• Paint Wooden Furniture
• Paint a Metal Bed Frame
• Spray Lacquer
• Stain Wooden Furniture

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