Refurbish an Old Cabinet
Have you ever wanted to restore an old (or new), piece of furniture or cabinet and just didn't know how to begin? Or perhaps there is a piece that you just don't like the looks of anymore and would like to change it to something brighter or more eye pleasing? In this article you will learn some of the activities it takes to do just that.
Steps
- Acquire an old cabinet. The one used in this article is an old baker's cabinet taken from an abandoned house, probably from the 1930s or 40s. As more and more of the old paint was removed, the construction technique indicated a hand made piece or perhaps a high school shop project. It's still very old as indicated by the 16” wide clear pine lumber used in the flour bins.
- Remove all the hardware from any drawers, doors, legs, etc. The handles removed from this piece, under two layers of paint, were made of brass or copper plated steel. Much of the plating is worn away, but they can still be reused.
- Remove the top. Strip the old paint, or in this case, the old linoleum finish. If the top is in usable condition, it can be refinished, or as an alternative, apply ceramic tile, or even laminate flooring for a beautiful new look. If you decide to enlarge the top (for example, to make an eating area), more of the same type of lumber must be acquired to extend it (preferably wood that matches the old), or a new top must be built. This piece received a new top made from old barn wood so that a breakfast bar could be added to one side.
- Begin removing the old paint using the hot air gun (heat stripper). Keep the gun moving in a circular or back and forth motion so that you do not scorch the wood. Work in small areas and as the paint begins to bubble, use the putty knife to scrape up the paint. Be careful not to scratch or gouge the wood. As one section of paint begins to bubble, hold the gun in front of the knife, and gently push the putty knife forward. Slowly continue to move the gun forward while scraping. The hot air gun will only remove paints and varnishes, it will not remove stain.
- Use the stripper to clean up all the nooks and crannies. This is also a good time to clean up any old hardware that you are going to keep, and repair damaged areas of the piece. A small brass brush and a nail work well for cleaning detailed areas.
- Sand Compound Joints until the desired finish is achieved. To maintain the “old” look, the nicks, gouges, and dents may be left in place. If the piece will be painted, and a “new” look is desired, putty all the defects and allow the putty to dry before sanding. Due to shrinking, if the defect is large, more than one layer of putty may be required.
- Stain the piece with the desired color and let dry. On woods like pine, it is best to use boiled linseed oil thinned with mineral spirits, or a commercially made wood conditioner prior to applying the stain to achieve a more uniform color.
- Apply a coat of primer if the piece is to be painted.
- Apply the finish of your choice after allowing the stain to dry, per instructions. A glossy polyurethane finish is a durable choice for cabinets. An HVLP spray gun is the best thing to use to apply your finish if you have access to one. Next would be spray cans, but this can become expensive. Last is the good old brush. If you use a brush, purchase a good one that is made for finish work. Apply the finish using gentle strokes so bubbles are kept to a minimum. After the surface is covered completely, and before the finish begins to set, brush entire area one last time, brushing only in the direction of the grain. One light stroke is all that is needed. If the area is large, work in smaller sections, overlapping the edges before the finish becomes tacky.
- Use X0000 (called 4 aught) steel wool or 220 to 400 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the finished surfaces. The purpose of sanding is not to remove the finish, but to “roughen-up” the finish so the next layer will adhere to the old, and to smooth any defects. Wipe the sanded areas to remove dust with a tack cloth or soft cloth dipped in thinner and apply another coat of finish. Repeat this step until the desired thickness and sheen is achieved.
- Re-attach hardware after the finish has ample time to cure.
- Move the piece to its new home and enjoy your handiwork.
Tips
- When using clamps, its is often a good idea to use pieces of scrap wood in between the clamp and the cabinet wood to prevent the clamp from gouging the cabinet.
- Be patient. Depending on the size of the piece you choose, a project like this can be somewhat time consuming. This piece took in the neighborhood of 30 hours to complete, working just a few hours here and there in evenings and days off.
- Use a stiff, heat resistant plastic putty knife to avoid damage to the wood when scraping.
- Work in a well ventilated area, and avoid sparks or open flames near the area the finish is applied in.
- Never touch an exposed area of the finish until it is completely dry.
Warnings
- Do not use the heat gun while using a flammable stripper.
- It is imperative to use the stripper in a well ventilated space.
- Read and understand all warning labels on all tools and paint products before beginning.
Things You'll Need
- Hot air gun.
- Rubber gloves
- Safety glasses
- 2” to 4” putty knife
- Paint stripper
- Small electric sander or sanding block
- an assortment of sandpaper
- X0000 steel wool
- an airy covered place to work
- Stain or paint
- Varnish or some sort of top coat
- paint brush or finishing brush
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