Repair a Door Frame

We've all encountered a door that has seen better days. Prolonged water exposure, age, or forced entry cause damage to the door frame (also known as the door jamb), causing the door to function improperly. Repairing a door frame is a job that ranges from a simple fix to one requiring a little more handiwork, depending on how the door is damaged and how you intend on fixing it.

Steps

Fixing a Warped Door Frame

1. Remove the door strip and molding. Use a chisel and hammer or putty knife to pry the door strip and molding away from the frame. Start at the bottom of the frame and work your way up.
   • Take care not to damage the strip as you remove it from the frame. Place the claw end of the hammer on the side of each nail to support even removal.
   • Remove any remaining finishing nails left in the molding.
2. Remove any shims from in between the door frame and the wall. Door shims are used to correct and level doors with the frame so that the door is squared, or even, between both sides of the frame. These must be removed in order to adjust the warped door frame.
3. Use a mallet to straighten the frame. Gently hammer the frame in the direction necessary to level out both sides of the frame.
   • Make sure the door is closed while you straighten the frame. This will help you measure whether the door is even or planed with the frame.
   • Use a small, thick piece of wood to cover the area you are hammering. This will evenly distribute the blows from the mallet and prevent damage to the frame. The wood can also be used as a wedge if you have trouble hammering in a particular direction.
4. Measure frequently and incrementally. As you straighten the frame, measure the door gaps to see whether the door is evenly flush on both sides of the frame, from top to bottom.
   • Remember that a warped frame is only an immediate problem if it prevents the door from closing properly, or allows a large gap in between the edge of the door and the frame.
   • A warped door frame can suggest a moisture problem. Double check for rotting wood on or near the frame.
5. Reinstall door shims. Replace the door shims that were removed prior to further tighten the corrections made to the frame. Don’t fully tighten shims until you are satisfied with the correction.
   • Use new door shims if the older door shims were damaged.
   • Shims come in a variety of materials, including wood, plastic or metal. Wooden shims are the most commonly used shims and are versatile thanks to their ability to be trimmed.
   • Make sure you place a pair of shims at hinge height of the door, on both sides of the frame. This helps the door stay tightly secured, as much of the weight of the door is transferred to the frame at these heights.
   • Use a spirit level to make sure the shims are level. Use as many shims as necessary to ensure the frame is installed level on its entire length.
   • Open and close the door several times to test the security of the door. If the door still seems to be uneven with the frame, adjust the frame and shims as necessary to level out the door.
6. Once satisfied, reinstall the door molding. If you used new wooden door shims during correction, use a wood chisel and hammer, or hand saw to trim the excess wood from the shim before replacing the molding.
7. Remove the door frame (optional). If the door frame is far too warped for correcting (such as through large scale water damage), you will have to replace it. Once the molding and screws are removed, use a crowbar to slowly pry the frame from the wall. Start at the bottom and work your way up. Once the frame is nearly removed, remove it from the top plate by pulling it away from the door with your hands. Remove any shims you encounter along the way.
   • You may need to gently move the frame back and forth to nudge the frame loose from the top plate.
8. Repeat the process for each side of the frame you are replacing. If you are only replacing one side of the door frame, you may leave the top plate and healthy side of the door frame.
   • The door will have to be removed from the door frame if you are replacing the part of the frame containing the hinges.
9. Cut or purchase a new frame. If replacing just one part of the frame, cut a piece of timber of your choosing to size.
   • Weather-treated pieces of 2x4 timber are the most commonly used type of wood used for door frames. These are available in several standard sizes at DIY stores such as Home Depot and Lowes.
   • The most common heights for doors are 80”, 84”, and 96” in height. The width of common doors range from 18” to 36” wide.
   • Ask an expert at a hardware store if you have any questions specific to your project. They can help you choose and cut any parts you will need for the repair.
10. Modify the top plate if necessary. The top plate may need a modified notch for fitting the placement of the new frame. Set the frame where it will be placed and mark the measurement for the notch in the top plate using a pencil. Cut the notch using a multitool and chisel.
    • A multitool is an electric tool that comes with a variety of heads that fulfill different tasks, ranging from cutting and sanding wood to drilling holes.
11. Replace the door shims. Place the shims 100mm from the top and bottom of the frame, and where the door hinges will be placed. If the previous shims are still usable and in good condition, you may use those. Otherwise, shims can be purchased from hardware stores or home made from timber.
    • Use a spirit level to make sure the shims are level. Use as many shims as necessary to ensure the frame is installed level on its entire length.
12. Install the new door frame. Slide the frame into place. Make sure it is in the notch and level against the shims. Hammer two nails through the frame at each shim, securing the frame and shims in place against the wall stud.
    • Don’t immediately hammer the nails all the way. Leave some wiggle room in case you need to make an adjustment.
13. Measure the frame with the spirit level. Use this opportunity to make sure the frame is flush and level. If level, finish hammering the nails.
    • Reinstall the door to the frame at this point if you removed it earlier.
14. Reinstall the door strip and molding. Reuse any nails you saved if undamaged.

Fixing a Split Door Frame

1. Identify where the damage is located. A split can occur in a variety of locations on the frame depending on how it was damaged.
   • The middle of the frame is a common area to become split, particularly if the door is forced open or shut with too much force. This is most often encountered during burglaries or other forced door entries.
   • A kicked door can cause a split lower on the door frame (including damage to the door itself).
2. Remove the door strip and molding. Use a chisel and hammer to pry the door strip and molding away from the frame. Start at the bottom of the frame and work your way up.
   • Take care not to damage the strip as you remove it from the frame. Place the claw end of the hammer on the side of each nail to support even removal.
   • Remove any remaining finishing nails left in the molding.
3. Measure 6 inches (15.2 cm) above and below the frame damage. Mark the measurements with a pencil. If the damage is at the bottom of the frame, mark just above the damage.
4. Carefully cut the damaged frame away at the marked measurements. Use a small hand or power saw to make an accurate cut.
   • Apply screws just above and below the marked measurements to help hold the frame tight and help guide the cutting process.
   • Be careful not to cut too deep into the frame. You don’t want to damage the structure of the house.
5. Measure and cut timber. You want to cut the timber of the same length and width as the damaged portion removed from the frame. Use the same type of timber as the rest of the existing frame.
   • Weather-treated pieces of 2x4 timber are the most commonly used type of wood used for door frames. These are available at DIY stores such as Home Depot and Lowes.
   • Door frame/jamb replacement kits are available for purchase that feature pre-cut selections of timber in various sizes and thicknesses. These can be further modified to suit your needs.
   • If you believe your door frame is made from a non-standard wood, take the damaged portion to your local hardware store. Experts there can help you identify the type of wood that was used and supply you with the necessary materials.
6. Glue the new timber into place. Use wood or carpenters’ glue to affix the replacement timber into place. Once fit, allow the glue to dry.
   • Wood or carpenters’ glue sets thin, minimizing gaps between wooden parts. This glue also comes in waterproof varieties, making them ideal for wood-based projects.
   • Hammer two nails into the top and bottom of the new timber for a more secure fit.
7. Sand the repaired area smooth. Use sandpaper to sand away any glue residue or imperfections between the new and old frame.
8. Apply a body or wood filler. Mix enough body filler to cover the entirety of the repaired areas. Apply and smooth with a putty knife. Allow to dry. The filler will fill in any gaps in the glue and help maintain the repair.
   • Most brands of body and wood filler are similar in the tasks they can handle. The eventual hardness, natural color, and malleability of each filler will differ depending on brand and ingredients. If pricing is a concern, body filler tends to be cheaper than wood filler.
9. Sand the filler. Sand the applied filler smooth with sandpaper. Once smooth, finish with one coat of primer and two coats of paint.

Repairing Minor Wood Rot

1. Identify the rotted areas. Prevent Water Damage rot often occurs near the bottom of door frames, where water tends to pool during rain or floods. Measure the section of door frame containing wood rot and mark the area with a pencil.
2. Carve out the rotted areas. Using a chisel or circular power saw, grind out all of the rotted areas of wood on the frame. It is important to get every last bit of rotted wood you can see. If even a small amount of rotted wood remains, the fungus causing the rot will continue to spread.
   • If the rot covers a particularly large area or extends beyond the door frame into the structure of the house, more serious repairs will be necessary to keep the rot from returning.
   • Inspect your door for wood rot. When the frame becomes rotted, the door can also rot as well. An infected door can pass the rot to the door frame and vice versa. Replace the door if it becomes rotted.
3. Insert a wire mesh into the carved area. Purchase a folded wire mesh and place it in the gap of the frame. Lock it in place with screws. This wire mesh will serve as a skeleton for the body filler.
4. Mix enough wood or body filler to fill the carved out gap. Use a putty knife to fill the mesh cavity with the admixture. Allow to set for a few minutes and add additional filler to fill any gaps. Remove excess filler with chisel before it hardens.
   • Use an epoxy-based filler for substantial repairs such as filling rotted portions of door frames. Epoxy fillers are much stronger than wood and body fillers, and are better suited for withstanding the wear and tear that doors endure.
   • Plan out how much epoxy filler you’ll need. Once mixed, the epoxy filler dries quickly.
   • Invest in a few higher quality tools if sanding or carving epoxy filler – the filler is often sturdier than the wood itself when dry.
5. Allow to dry overnight. Once dry, sand to smoothness as desired. Finish with one coat of primer and two coats of paint.

Repairing Minor Frame Damage

1. Identify the damaged areas. Survey the frame for areas that need to be filled. Animal bites, door keys, bed frames and other accidents can cause a variety of light dents and gouges in the door frame.
   • Gently push and pull at any visible nicks, dents or scratches to test the severity of the damage. If pieces of wood pull away, a more complex repair might be necessary.
2. Cover gouges with filler. Smaller nicks, dents and gouges can be filled in with a body or wood filler. Use a putty knife to apply the filler into the gouges.
   • Use wood or body fillers for cosmetic damage such as slight gouges or dents. They lack the structural integrity of harder fillers such as epoxy, but tend to have a more pleasant aesthetic.
   • If you expect the door frame to continue to take a lot of wear and tear, use the epoxy filler to provide extra strength to the repair. The epoxy filler will have a greater resistance to future nicks and scratches than wood or body filler.
3. Dry overnight. Once dry, sand to smoothness as desired.. Finish with one coat of primer and two coats of paint.
   • Use a straight edge to help keep the filler level and in place when applying to vertical surfaces.

Tips

• Keep all materials you remove in case you can use them again later, such as shims or nails.
• Install a prehung door frame if repairing a frame is too tricky. Rather than creating the door frame yourself, hardware stores sell prehung door frames (including the door itself) that are easily installed.
• Work with a friend who can help you perform some of the more dangerous or arduous tasks.

Warnings

• Take care when using a saw to avoid injuring yourself.
• Wear a face mask when sanding or handling filler to avoid inhaling dangerous particles.

Things You'll Need

• Safety glasses
• Face mask
• Work gloves
• Cat's paw (mini crowbar) for removing molding
• Power screwdriver
• {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} screws
• Wire mesh
• Spirit level
• Pencil
• Chisel
• Saw (power or hand)
• Body or wood filler
• Wood/carpenters’ glue
• Epoxy (optional)
• Primer (optional)
• Paint (optional)

Related Articles

• Hang a Door
• Replace a Door Frame With Alternative Options

Sources and Citations

See also

• Replace a Doorbell Chime
• Keep Windows from Fogging
• Clean Wood Doors
• Apply WD‐40 to Door Hinges
• Hang a Prehung Door
• Replace Old Double Hung Windows With Vinyl Replacements
• Install an Interior Door
• Repair a Damaged Hollow Core Door
• Install Glass Block Windows
• Replace a Pre Hung Door

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