Restore a Native Prairie



A prairie is an ecological system dominated by grasses, common in areas where there's not enough rainfall to support Care for Trees on Your Property (such as the Great Plains of the United States and Canada). Planting a native prairie is an endeavor worthy of your time and effort. Not only does it increase biodiversity of native plant species and conserve rapidly disappearing topsoil[1] but a prairie is also low-maintenance (in comparison to a lawn, thus reducing resource consumption and increasing free time) and aesthetically pleasing once mature. Following this outline, you will be able to plant, maintain, and restore a native prairie.

Steps

  1. Select a site. When selecting a site, first note your location. Are you in an area where native grassland historically existed, or do you live in an area that was mostly forested? You can only reclaim an area back into native prairie if you are in a location where the native prairie once was prevalent 100 years or so ago. Look for areas with maximum sun exposure and lack of competition. Trees, especially those with a high surface root density like maple and basswood, shade out prairie species and compete for soil nutrients and water. Spruce trees and most other conifers are not good in prairies. Such trees are found in more northerly climates, and are indicative of areas where prairie was non-existent, such as in mountain regions.
    • Prepare your site. In early- to mid-spring, clear the site of existing vegetation. Seeds, if broadcast into existing vegetation, have relatively little chance of success, particularly if the existing vegetation easily out-competes the seedlings trying to establish themselves. If weeds, turf or other vegetation currently exist on your site, they will need to be eliminated. Note, however, that certain weeds and other vegetation may be native to your location. Never assume that a weed is always non-native.

    • If you prefer a more natural method, or if you wish to avoid a chemical process, you can hand-pull the weeds from the area. While this will take a lot more time and much more labour, the weeds can be fully eliminated this way.
    • Natural prairies were maintained by wildfires. Depending on nearby physical and political conditions it may be possible to do controlled burns. Typically local fire authorities need to be involved. One common mistake is to do the burn in springtime, since it is believed that the likelihood of the fire getting out of control is reduced. From an ecological perspective, spring burns are less than helpful. Instead a summer burn should be attempted, with great care. It would be best to burn off very small areas at a time, with fire fighting crews standing by.
    • One way you do not want to clear the site is with a glyphosate herbicide such as Roundup. For years Roundup and similar glyphosates were touted to be safe because they bound to the soil and became inactive after a short time. Thus the use of glyphosates as a broad-spectrum, nonresidual herbicide was widespread and assumed safe. However, recent information contradicts that claim and Monsanto, the maker of Roundup, has lost several lawsuits in Europe which claimed Monsanto knowingly lied and mislead consumers about the residual effects and the harmlessness of Roundup. In addition, glyphosates have been implicated as a causal agent in the disappearance of honey bees and other pollinators and Roundup-ready crops such as corn and soybeans are now known to kill honey bees. Be warned that these types of herbicides will run off into a nearby water source (such as a stream, pond or lake) and are deadly to most amphibians. Try to find a natural herbicide, or one that is harmless to all animals, especially bees. Doing so will help your prairie become a self-sustaining ecosystem.
    • If the existing vegetation is tall and/or dense, it will be necessary to remove the dead plant material. It can be burned off or it can be mowed and then mulched or raked away. Also consider utilizing livestock to graze down the area if mowing is unfeasible and impractical. Utilizing natural herbivores like cattle and sheep is much more natural and beneficial to the land than burning money, time and fuel mowing your prairie-reclamation site.

  2. Create a seed bed of freshly worked soil and roto-till the area to a depth of 1 to 4 inches (2.5 to 10 cm). Keep in mind that weed seeds frequently lie dormant beneath the soil surface and germinate after they have become exposed to sun and rain. If your area was initially densely populated with weeds, especially problem weeds such as quack grass, thistle, leafy spurge or sweet clover, allow the weed seeds to germinate and begin growing. Then repeat the weed elimination and tilling process. This second round is optional, but does produce a cleaner, more receptive seed bed. Finally, rake the soil to create a smooth, firm seed bed. This improves the condition of the seed bed, giving seeds better soil contact, increasing the odds each will germinate and grow.
    • If the soil structure lacks organic material and looks like it is made up of just clay, add a thin layer of peat (1/4 to 1/2 inch or 0.6 to 1.25 cm deep) on top of the ground, then mix it in with the roto-tiller.[2]
    • Do not add chemical fertilizer. See Warnings below.
  3. Plant the seeds. The best time to seed is from the spring thaw to late summer (or to early August in North America). In the fall, seeding can take place from September 20 through freeze-up in the US and Canada. On prepared seed beds on sites with little competition from other plants, winter seeding can also be effective.
    • A suggested planting density is 500 cubic centimeters of seed (about a full 8-ounce plastic cup of seed) for each square meter. Look for seed from locally-established plants (as in grasses and forbs that already exist), since they'll be better adapted to the site.[2] Focus on native plant species for a native prairie. See the Tips below for more details on preparing the seeds.
      • It is highly recommended before you even purchase seeds to research the grasses and forbs that are truly native to your area. Certain plants that may be found along road-allowances or on the edges of fields may not be native plants at all. While it is nearly impossible to prevent growth of certain exotic, non-native plants to grow in the prairie region (such as Kentucky bluegrass, crested wheatgrass and smooth brome grass in the dry mixed-grass prairie region of southwestern Alberta and Saskatchewan, Canada), it should be possible to learn to identify the plants that are already established in your area and determine if they are native or not. Plant books that cover your area will be able to help you assess and evaluate certain vegetation, as well as spending the money and time to attend local plant ID classes and rangeland horticulture clinics.
    • Hand planting is the simplest and most reliable method of seeding. Adjustable hand-held spreaders may work with the grass seed although they tend to get clogged. Wildflower seed should always be hand planted.
      • Be sure that the wildflower seed you are planting is indeed native wildflowers and not flowers that are mostly non-native.
    • Spread grass seed first. To ensure even coverage, divide the seed in half and plant the first half over the entire area. Work slowly and carefully. Plant the second half at a perpendicular angle to the first seeding. Lightly rake the grass seed into the soil to ensure soil contact.
    • Wildflower seed should be planted last and can be spread evenly or concentrated in bands or swaths across your prairie area. Much of this seed is quite small. Spreading it thinly will produce the best results. Do not rake in the flower seeds.
    • Watering at this point is helpful but not necessary. Native prairie species should be well adapted to rainfall conditions on your site, and watering may encourage non-native species (weeds) to germinate. If you do decide to water, it is important to follow through until the seedlings are established. Watering to begin germination and then letting the soil dry out can prove disastrous for sprouting seedlings.[3]
    • Fertilization is also unnecessary. Studies have shown that fertilizing native grassland areas either encouraged encroachment of non-native grasses or had no effect on plant growth in such areas at all. Fertilizing, like watering, may also encourage weeds to grow instead of the native plants you worked hard to plant in your reclamation site.
  4. Plant potted seedlings. If you wish to include them, these should be added after seeding. Potted seedlings can be planted anytime from spring thaw to freeze-up, although those planted in mid-summer may require supplemental watering. Seedlings can be planted throughout the site or in designated areas of the project. Ideally, natural rainfall will provide enough water, but dry weather during the first 10 days may necessitate supplemental watering.
    • If you're starting the seedlings yourself, they should germinate about 8 weeks before planting and be hardened for about a week before planting. Hardening means gradually getting the plants used to outdoor conditions by leaving them outside at the site for a little more time each day.[4]
  5. Mulch. While mulching is not required, it does provide some erosion control and aids in soil moisture retention. Mulch lightly (soil visible through mulch) with clean oat or wheat straw. Make sure not to use hay, because it may contain seeds you do not want to introduce to your area.

Maintain Your Prairie

  • A prairie landscape takes time to develop, requiring patience and careful management the first few years. However, if your prairie was planted correctly and you follow these maintenance instructions, your prairie will mature into a unique, self-sustaining natural landscape.

  1. Year one: Most prairie plants are perennials. Although perennial seeds will germinate the first year, the young seedlings' root growth will be two to three times their above-ground growth, and they may not flower until the second or third year. While this lack of visual growth can be frustrating, keep in mind that it is the strong root system of prairie perennials which enables them to be nearly maintenance-free at maturity.
    • During this early stage of growth, weeds will take advantage of the lack of above-ground vegetation and appear on your site. To minimize the effects of tall weeds shading prairie seedlings and to prevent these weeds from setting seed, you should plan to cut your planting one, two, or even three times during its first growing season. This is generally done on 30-day intervals using a scythe, mower or line trimmer. Scything is often best, as an uneven removal of plant will open up the canopy in many spots to encourage growth of the seeded seedlings. The cutting height should be kept at five to eight inches in height. Mowing is also effective, but it is important to keep the blade set as high as possible. Hand weeding is also useful during the first growing season, especially to remove individual noxious weeds. These and invading woody plants may have to be treated with spot spraying, if necessary. Also consider using small livestock like sheep or goats to consume these weeds and to add their own fertilizer to the soil. Goats and sheep will often readily eat weeds and have a smaller impact on a newly established area than large animals like cattle or horses, which will trample, pug (or put holes in the ground) and/or pull out plants that are not weeds but native plants still trying to establish their root systems.
  2. Year two: During the second growing season, residual seeds from the first season may still germinate and some of the faster-growing native plants will begin to establish themselves. There might still, however, be a need for weed control and one mowing might be necessary sometime between mid-June and mid-August. The height and density of the weed cover should help determine if and when to mow. In areas where weeds are especially dominant, the advantages of cutting the weeds and preventing them from setting seed offset any disadvantages of cutting prairie plants. Spot spraying might still be necessary this year. However, both mowing and spraying should still be considered to be optional; at this time, you can begin to introduce grazers like cattle to help control the weeds and to control grass growth. Hoof action and the impact of grazing will further stimulate growth from the plants. However, depending on the plants that are grown, timing of grazing and how long to graze is critical to know.
  3. Year three: By the third year (and in the years to follow) your patience will begin to pay off. Both grasses and forbs will be more plentiful, providing beautiful, low-maintenance returns. One cutting per year can be used as a clean-up procedure. The best time to cut off old prairie vegetation is in early May or late November (after you've enjoyed the gold, lavender, russets, and maroons of an autumn prairie). In areas where prairie plants were especially tall and dense, mulch or rake away the dead plant material. If it's feasible, as mentioned repeatedly before, consider using livestock to create the disturbances necessary for maintaining a truly natural prairie habitat. You may wish to use such animals instead of investing in having to mow or rake once or several times a year. They also will contribute to needed fertilizer that plants will need to continue their growth. Such animals are also a key disturbance to help control woody invasions from trees and shrubs.

Tips

  • Another way to get rid of exotic weeds and the exotic seeds that can remain dormant in the soil for many years, is to cover the area in clear plastic. The clear plastic will create a greenhouse atmosphere so all the exotic seeds will start growing, but then be scorched by the sun through the clear plastic. You could use black plastic, which would kill the weeds that had already sprouted, but the clear plastic is better. Then, you are ready to manually remove the dead exotic vegetation and plant the prairie seeds.
  • Some seeds (e.g. Wild Indigo) may need scarification (scratching or cutting of the outside covering) in order to germinate. Seeds develop thick hulls to survive the chemical and mechanical processes associated with being eaten and digested, and have evolved to only germinate after this process has occurred. You can replicate scarification by grinding seeds between sandpaper blocks or screening material for about 15 seconds.[5]
  • When buying seeds, ask if they have been "stratified". Without stratification, seeds may germinate in late fall or winter and subsequently die because of freezing temperatures. If the seeds aren't stratified, you can encourage this natural process by keeping them in your garage or other protected, but unheated, area over the winter months or storing them, usually dry or sometimes damp, in the refrigerator for about 8-10 weeks (but some species need up to 16 weeks).[5]
  • Fire is another method of removing old prairie thatch. In natural prairie ecosystems, fire not only gets rid of accumulated thatch, it also helps reduce woody plant invasion and stimulates the growth of many native grasses and wildflowers. Rotation between prescribed burns and cutting is ideal for prairies and savannahs. The best time to schedule a burn is in the early spring.[6]
  • After burning, the site will appear blackened and there shouldn't be much plant material left. Since native prairie species have intricate root structures that remain unaffected by fire (while non-native species burn and die), you can expect the prairie plants to begin returning after one or two weeks.[6]
  • If you don't wish to use burning, utilize grazing animals instead. The added fertilizer from their manure and natural ability to remove vegetation may prove to be a more practical, labour-saving regime than planning extensively for controlled burns or having to spend the time mowing or raking your prairie site.

Warnings

  • Do not attempt to reclaim prairie near structures or homes. This is where the incidence of fire endangering life and property can be significant.
  • Fires are dangerous, especially if they get out of hand and controlled burns are not planned properly. A controlled burn is a useful maintenance tool, but it requires much expertise and extensive planning. Be certain to check local fire regulations and permit procedures before you begin.
  • When burning, always use extra caution. Keep the local fire department phone number on hand in case things go terribly wrong.
  • At no time should fertilizers be used. Prairie plants are well-adapted to their environment and do not need fertilization. This expensive, time-consuming and often environmentally unfriendly procedure is not only unnecessary on a natural landscape but is detrimental because it can encourage weeds and other undesirable vegetation.
    • An exception to fertilization is the use of natural manure from grazing animals.
  • Tall grasses and plants will raise the risk for fire incidence, especially during dry periods. Such periods will encourage fires, once started, to burn extensive tracts of land in a very short period of time. Areas that have not seen fire for many years--much longer than the historic fire interval rate--will be more prone to very intense, hot fires.
    • Note that any plant, regardless if it's a shrub, tree, phorb or grass, will go up in flame; there is no such thing as a plant that won't burn easily. The only plants that may not burn easily are those that grow close to the ground and do not produce much litter or dead material after they die or reach senescence.

Related Articles

Sources and Citations

  1. ↑ http://ed.fnal.gov/help/prairie/Prairie_Res/intro.html
  2. ↑ 2.0 2.1 http://ed.fnal.gov/help/prairie/Prairie_Res/seed_prep.html
  3. ↑ http://ed.fnal.gov/help/prairie/Prairie_Res/water.html
  4. ↑ http://ed.fnal.gov/help/prairie/Prairie_Res/amt_acq_prep.html
  5. ↑ 5.0 5.1 http://ed.fnal.gov/help/prairie/Prairie_Res/amt_acq_prep.html
  6. ↑ 6.0 6.1 http://ed.fnal.gov/help/prairie/Prairie_Res/care_main.html
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