Ride a Fixed Gear Bike

Fixed gear bikes are one speed bikes with no freewheel - if the bike is moving the pedals are turning. They are hugely popular with bike messengers due to their simplicity, reliability and unstealability (you will understand the latter after your first city ride..). They have also become more popular among a wider group of riders due to the above factors, their enhanced aerobic demands and tendency to increase rider "mindfulness".

Steps

  1. Get a fixed gear: The best way is to build bikes from old "10 speed" bikes, which is generally the least expensive and most "customizable" approach. Make sure the frame has either diagonal or horizontal dropouts - vertical dropouts don't allow for adjustment or chain flex, and are generally a poor choice for single- or- fixed-gear conversions. You will need to make decisions on what size gear to use and whether you wish to add a front or rear brake -"very low 70's gearing" and "front brake only" are typical decisions. Or you can buy a decent, inexpensive track frame and build it up with quality parts. Those store bought fixies often are a hodgepodge of parts, some of which are garbage. Buying a bike is relatively simple but you should be aware of generic parts. Those "fixies" you see for 300 hundred bucks or less, typically have all generic parts. Generic parts get the job done, but in the long run, you may spend more money fixing and replacing parts.
    • Alternatively, many retailers offer fixed-speed bikes for reasonable prices. If you lack mechanical knowledge of bicycles or are unfamiliar with their maintenance, new bikes eliminate much of the difficulty of selecting, converting and repairing an older bike.
  2. "Just keep turning the pedals". Sounds obvious but if you do not control the bike, it will control you, with unpleasant consequences. It is not as obvious as it sounds. It will take quite a while for your subconscious mind to learn not to try coasting, and not to feel like a runaway locomotive when you discover you can't.
  3. Practice random acts of senseless stopping. Depending on whether you have chosen to use brakes, this may require a lot more time and - or mastery of "skid stopping". At the very least it will entail trying to "back-pedal" to slow down, which you may find an interesting challenge. If you can't learn to slow yourself down or stop, get off the bike. You could seriously hurt yourself or get killed.
  4. Leave the bike computer and heart rate monitor at home. The point is to simplify things to where we can enjoy riding as we did when we were children.
  5. Learn to pace yourself. Stopping and starting take more work than on a geared bike. If you see that a stale green light ahead, it is better to slow down and hopefully catch the next green without having to stop, than charge the light and then have to stop suddenly when it turns red.



Tips

  • Because sliding friction is less than static friction, skidding actually increases your stopping distance. If you need to stop quickly, backpedal (resist the motion of the pedals) rather than trying to lock your knees.
  • Practice in a safe remote area. The first several rides are startling in many ways and it is safest to learn in areas where you can safely "recover" without worrying about the cab driver who does not see you coming.
  • Pre-ride: Make absolutely sure nothing (shoelaces etc.) is flapping around near the chain. If something gets wrapped up in moving parts you'll soon be tasting pavement.
  • You might migrate to clipless pedals as soon as you are somewhat comfortable on the bike. Often two-sided pedals are used, which allow for riding with either bike shoes (cleat on bottom) or sneakers (tuck those laces in). Or ride with clips (cages, baskets, etc.) These allow your foot to be planted to the pedal, without the necessity of special shoes. It is essential to anchor your feet to the pedals if you want to effectively stop or slow down.
  • Stretch (bend) the knees before and after each ride. Long time fixed riders sometimes suffer painful knee and lower back problems, as recreational and occupational fixed-gear riding is rough on the knees and lower back. Stretching greatly reduces soreness and injury. It also allows for a better building up of the muscles surrounding the joints.
  • And watch it when maintaining your whip! If you get a finger caught between a moving chain and cog or gear ring, you will possibly lose that finger.
  • Riding with platform pedals and without brakes (optional) is not only a really stupid idea, but a great way to get injured. Clipless pedals and toe clips are bound to the rider's foot, allowing the rider to skid easily.
  • Fixies generally do not have quick release hubs, (and the rear wheel should NEVER have one) so you will need to have a 15mm wrench or allen key to loosen the bolts to adjust chain tension. And chain tension is IMPORTANT! keep that chain taut. There's no spring derailleur there to keep the chain tense. You should aim for around .5 to 1in of chain slack.
  • Practice skid stops on wet grass at your local park until you are confident to migrate onto the road.
  • Having a brake is a good idea, as going without break and skidding puts pressure on the kneecaps, increasing the possibility of knee injuries; it also wears out your tires quickly. Though that is just one person's opinion... Many of us have been riding and skidding without brakes for years without problem.

Warnings

  • Beware of downhills. Coasting is not optional and high speed pedaling (spinning) - perhaps over 120 RPM - requires suppleness, balance and practice. Good luck, have fun!
  • Some towns are ticketing riders with one or no brakes. Many state laws prohibit bicycles without brakes. Please check with your local bike shop for this information.
  • To add to the 2nd warning. If you are riding without brakes, please be aware of other motorists and pedestrians. Even if you get into an accident where the car hit you, you may be punished due to the absence of brakes.

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Sources and Citations

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