Sew a Chudidar/Salwaar Kameez
Make a Punjabi suit/Churidar/Salwaar Kameez by following these simple instructions! A salwaar kameez is made up of two parts - a churidar (leggings) and a kurta (tunic).
Steps
Making a Churidar/Leggings
- Take these measurements before you start.
- Length from waist to ankle
- Hips
- Length from waist to knee and from waist to calf
- Knee round ( i.e. thickness of your knee). In the same way, calf round and ankle round.
- Draw a straight line measuring the length from waist to ankle.
- Mark the points waistline and ankle line.
- Extend this line a further 20 cm and mark the point as hem line.
- For the crotch line -take 1/3 of your hip measurement + 5cm and mark this distance from the waistline as the crotch line.
- Mark the distance from waist to knee as the knee line and the distance from waist to calf as the calf line.
- Draw a perpendicular line measuring 1/3 hips + 9cm'at the crotch line. Also, draw a perpendicular line at the knee line, which is ½ of your knee round measurement +2.5cm.
- Draw lines at calf line measuring ½ calf round +2.5cm and at ankle line measuring ½ ankle round +2.5cm. Draw a line at the hemline which is also ½ ankle round +2.5cm
- Mark a point "o" at the end of the line.
- Mark another point at a distance which is one twelfth of hips +2.5cm away from “o”
- Draw a perpendicular line at this point and then square it of to the waistline.
- Join this line to "o" with a curve and join from o to the hem line connecting the knee, calf and ankle line.
- Cut along the red line. This is your pattern. The fabric will have a fold along the center fold line. Cut two.(Increase the length from ankle line to hem line if you want more ruching and decrease if you want less).
- Sew the crotch seams on both sides with right sides of both the leg pieces facing.
- Open the pieces and align so that each leg is folded on the center fold line. Sew the inseam from hem line to hem line.
- Finish the hem line by sewing a 1 cm fold. At the waistline sew a 1 inch fold for elastic or drawstring.
- Look at this photo.This is how they will look.
Making a Kameez/Kurta
- Start with the basic sloper or bodice block with darts or without darts. Extend the length along the center fold line by about 20 to 22 cm, approximately up to your hips .
- Draw a line perpendicular to this line measuring ¼ hips +1.5 to 2.5 cm , depending upon how fit or loose you want the garment at the hips.
- Extend the center fold line further to the desired length of the kameez. Length of the kameez can vary from 38 to 46 inches.
- Square off with the hip line.
- Extend the hem line by 2 to 5 cm depending upon how much flare you want in your garment.
- Curve the hem line upwards by about 1cm.
- Join from waist to hem . Repeat the same method with back sloper .
- This is your basic kameez pattern. Cut one front and one back . Cut out sleeves of the desired length and style.
- Sew on interfacing or piping to front and back neckline.
- Lay pieces right sides facing , aligning shoulder seams and armholes.
- Sew shoulder seams and side seams .
- Leave 12 to 15 inches open on the side seam for side slits.
- Attach sleeves .
- Fold over and sew hemline and side slits .
- Experiment with varying lengths such as knee length or calf length for kurta or kameez and thigh length or hip length for kurti. You can pair the kameez with jeans, trousers, skirts, salwar, churidar or leggings.
Tips
- Use a stretchy material like jersey or stretch cotton or lycra so that they fit well. If you are using cotton or any other material which is not stretchy, cut the pattern on bias grain to give your garment a stretch.
