Take Care of Relaxed African Hair

In this wikiHow we'll show you how to take care of your relaxed African hair.

Steps

  1. Relax your hair every 8 to 16 weeks depending on your hair's needs. Do not relax your hair every time new growth appears, since relaxing too often causes major damage to the hair and scalp. For one week following your relaxer, use a reconstructor instead of your regular conditioner when you wash your hair. Aphogee makes an excellent reconstructor and shampoo. After a week return to your regular Moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. Keracare or LeKair are good ones.
  2. Wash and condition your hair once or twice a week. Try to use mild and gentle shampoo and a very moisturizing conditioner designed for chemically-treated hair. If you have sensitive skin, consider using shampoos that do not contain Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate or Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. Paul Mitchell is an excellent line for damaged/chemically-treated hair. Using a deep conditioner that contains both protein and moisture once per week is ideal, try Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Pak or Paul Mitchell Hair Repair. Chemically-treated hair must always be treated with a leave-in conditioner after every wash. Motions Nourish is a great example of this. Comb the damp hair with a wide tooth comb or shower/detangling comb with a very slippy conditioner in it as wet hair is in its most vulnerable state and is more likely to break.
  3. For those who need to wash more frequently than every once or twice a week, "CO-washing" (Conditioner Only washing) is an excellent alternative to the wash/condition. Cowashing is washing your hair with a lightweight moisturizing conditioner, eliminating the shampoo step which can be very drying to chemically treated/damaged hair when done relatively too frequently. This can even be done daily. For best results, simply rinse the hair well with warm water, and apply conditioner to the hair, starting about {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} away from the scalp, and smooth it through to the ends. Apply more to the ends if they are dry. Avoid applying conditioner to the scalp unless it is dry. Rinse conditioner very well.
  4. It is best to avoid using heat to dry your hair, especially if the relaxed hair is somewhat damaged. Hair should be left to air dry at least partially before using a blow dryer on a low to medium temperature setting. However, if your hair is healthy and you prefer heat, you can either blow dry the hair on medium heat or use a hood dryer with magnetic rollers. The hair should be completely dry before you use a curling or flat iron on it. Make sure to use a heat protection product prior to any heat use.
  5. When using a curling iron to style your hair, do not allow the barrel cover to clamp down on your hair. Hold the barrel cover slightly open and allow the hair to move over the curling iron barrel without the tugging and pulling caused by pressure from the barrel cover. Whenever the barrel cover clamps down on your hair it creates a weak point at which breakage is inevitable.
  6. An ionic, ceramic curling iron or flat iron works well and is easy to find. You can also invest in heat appliances utilising tourmaline, ionic technology having temperature controls. Relaxed hair can be easily styled at 300-370 degrees depending on hair's thickness. Do not repeatedly run the heat appliance over each section of hair. Instead pass the iron over the hair once at this temperature, no more than twice. Try to use heat protective products (serums or creams, not oils) prior to any and all heat styling. Redken Smooth Down Heat Glide, Nexxus Heat Protexx, and Chi Silk Infusion are good products for this.
  7. Never use petrolatum and mineral oil hair oil on relaxed hair as a moisturizer. These ingredients do NOT moisturize the hair but rather functions as a sealant (meaning it protects the cuticle layer from damage and moisture loss). Depending on your hair type, you may need to use daily hair conditioner, but use products that actually oil the scalp. For best results, choose a lightweight oil (such as jojoba, coconut, almond, or olive oil) rub a small amount (1-2 drops) in the palms and spread lightly through the scalp of the hair. Comb your hair evenly to moisturize the tips of the hair. Applying a small amount of oil to wet hair can also act as a leave-in conditioner and provides excellent conditioning in preparation for the next shampooing.
  8. Use as little heat as possible with your hair as heat can only do more damage to relaxed hair. It's okay to style your hair with a curling iron occasionally, however a roller set is the best method. If you want to maintain a curly look over a few days, pincurling is a healthy option. Be sure to use hair-friendly pins and a satin bonnet to prevent dryness and breakage overnight.
  9. Water based moisturizers are best for all hair types, although leave-in conditioners can double as moisturizer for the hair. Ultra Black Hair Lotion Crème is an excellent moisturizer as well as S-curl activator. You can also try Dudley's PCA Moisture Retainer or ORS Carrot Oil Crème. Avoid moisturizers with petrolatum and mineral oil unless you wash/condition and/or cowash regularly.
  10. Deep condition the hair every week to maintain strength and moisture in the hair. Do not overwash your hair by shampooing relaxed hair more than once a week. To do this take a creamy deep conditioning treatment that contains both moisturizing and mild protein ingredients to clean damp hair. For best results, apply a plastic shower cap and let hair sit for up to 30-45 min. To save time, sitting under a hooded dryer on medium heat for 15-20 min is equally effective. Deep conditioning regularly and consistently can help maintain the hair's integrity, allowing it to withstand regular manipulation and styling, as well as preventing damage. Examples of deep conditioners are ION Effective Care Intensive Therapy, Paul Mitchell Super Charged Moisturizer, AG Deep Treatment, and Aveda Damage Remedy Treatment. Invest more money in a deep conditioner rather than any other product, as this will be the best tool for preventing hair damage and should contain quality ingredients.
  11. Don't brush your hair with harsh bristles
  12. Drink plenty of water daily, get enough of rest, eat well, alleviate stress, and exercise regularly (at least 2-3 days per week) to produce the healthiest hair possible. Take a multi-vitamin, Biotin, Omega-3 Oil, and other supplements as needed.



Tips

  • Use natural oils instead of grease. Wear hair in protective styles to protect ends and retain length. Drink plenty of water and eat healthier.
  • Always use a good leave in conditioner.
  • Believe that it is possible for you to have healthy hair. Find what works for you and never stop searching until you do.
  • Always keep the ends of the hair moisturized, as this is the oldest part of the hair and therefore they are easy to break off when dry.
  • To keep your hair very thick and full, use a very wide-tooth, seamless comb and comb hair very gently and from tips to roots. This will prevent pulling out hair from the roots and will help to prevent breakage.
  • Moisturize, seal with oil and wrap your hair before bedtime.
  • When going to bed wearing a hair net cap to stop hair breaking on your pillow.
  • Educate yourself. The book Ultra Black Hair Growth (as well as other books) is an excellent resource.
  • Friction on a pillowcase can break off relaxed hair. Use only silk or satin pillowcases.
  • Don't let wet hair out in the cold and DON'T EVER straighten your hair with high heat and no heat protectant.
  • To strengthen the hair before getting a relaxer, use a protein treatment 7 days prior (Aphogee Treatment For Damaged Hair is an excellent protein treatment). Always follow protein treatment with a moisturizing deep conditioner to soften the hair and ease combing and styling. Repeat the treatment every 6-8 weeks if the hair is damaged easily.
  • Seal your ends every morning and night with a good oil such as Carol's Daughter Monoi Sacred Strengthening Serum.
  • Use as little heat as possible.
  • Don't use a weave unless you are an expert, as this can make your hair worse.
  • If you have been prescribed medication by your doctor, avoid chemical treatments. The reason is the medication or illness can make your hair and scalp nor sensitive and therefore unable to handle chemicals.the result may be as drastic as breakage and even severe hair loss!

Warnings

  • Only let people who are familiar with your particular kind of hair work on your hair.
  • If you experience breakage from a particular brand or type of hair oil, discontinue using it immediately and try something new. Never use products containing mineral oil or petroleum which can weigh hair down. Choose lighter oils such as Jojoba, Meadowfoam, Extra Virgin Olive, Coconut oil, Safflower Oil, Carrot oil, Tea tree oil, Sunflower oil, Canola oil or Soybean oil.
  • Remember that shampoo is meant to clean the scalp and roots, and conditioner maintains the hair. Do not handle wet hair roughly when shampooing in an effort to get the hair clean--this prevents tangles.
  • Avoid hair care products containing alcohol and silicone (cones) as they may be damaging to your hair.
  • Avoid overconditioning the hair. Pay attention to the hair on a regular basis to determine if the hair needs special treatment. Be careful not to oversaturate the hair with product on a daily basis, especially if washing less frequently. If the hair is healthy this will do more harm than good.
  • If your hair tends to fall out when you are stressed, avoid washing it frequently during these times and use very gentle water pressure from your shower.
  • Purchase a shower head that allows you to adjust the water pressure. Only use medium or gentle water pressure when you wash your hair; this will help to prevent thinning.
  • Not all shampoos and conditioners will work with your hair type. Try different brands until you find 2 or 3 that work for you. If a particular product dries out your hair throw it away. If it makes your hair silky and bouncy then keep it!! Some really great shampoos/conditioners are Ultra Black Hair, Tresemme for damaged hair and Crème of Nature (red or green label).

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Sources and Citations

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