Take Care of a Hedgehog

Hedgehogs make great pets for those who are patient and dedicated. A hybrid of two different wild species native to Africa, the African Pygmy Hedgehog, is a domesticated species known to be intelligent, friendly and enjoyable company for a dedicated owner. As with any pet, researching hedgehogs and their required care can help you decide if it's a good fit with your lifestyle. Make sure you understand the habitat needs and feeding requirements of hedgehogs so that you're ready to bring one home and provide the best care you can.

Steps

Choosing and Bringing Home Your Hedgehog

  1. Check that hedgehog-keeping is legal in your area. The hedgehog is considered an exotic pet, and keeping one may be subject to certain laws in your state or county. In some places it is illegal, whereas in others you may be required to have a special permit. Check with your local state, city, and county ordinances to learn more about any laws or regulations on owning exotic pets in your town.
    • If you need help finding out about your state's specific regulations, or you need to find a safe home for a hedgehog that you're not legally allowed to have, contact an animal welfare organization or one specifically dedicated to hedgehogs.[1]
  2. Opt to buy your hedgehog from a licensed breeder. Hedgehogs bought from responsible breeders are more likely to be well socialized, and because the breeder is familiar with the hedgehogs parents, chances are better that you'll get a healthy pet. That said, it is important to find a good breeder. If you don't, you could end up with a grumpy or sick hedgehog.
    • Be sure the breeder has quality, pedigree stock with no Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome (WHS) or cancer in their lineage.
    • See that the breeder is USDA licensed. In the US, hedgehog breeders are required to have a USDA license. The purchasing process involves paperwork, in which they will provide you with their license number.
    • Be wary of breeders who post on Craigslist or other online classifieds.
    • Ask the breeder if they offer any health guarantees. Policies may vary, but you are likely to feel more comfortable with your selection if the breeder offers some option to return or exchange the hog if unexpected health problems arise early on. This also alerts them to possible health problems in certain lineages, so concern in this area is a sign of a responsible breeder.[2]
  3. Check that the hedgehog is healthy. There are several signs you can look for in a healthy hedgie before making your selection.
    • Clear eyes: The hog should appear alert; the eyes should not be crusty, sunken, or swollen.
    • Clean fur and quills: While some anointing is normal (see below), fecal matter around the anus may indicate diarrhea or other underlying health issues.
    • Healthy skin: Crusty skin around the quills could indicate dry skin or mites - if it's the latter, you'll need to treat the hedgehog. Look for fleas, as well (small, pinhead-size brown points that jump quickly) - these also need treatment.
    • No scabs or injuries: If there is a scab or injury, the breeder should be able to explain what happened, and it should be clear that the animal is healing well. While some hedgehogs can survive infant injuries (such as blindness, loss of a limb, etc.) and go on to lead healthy and happy lives, you'll need to consider the care this animal requires and whether you're realistically able to provide that.
    • Alertness: A hedgehog should be alert and aware of its surroundings, not lethargic and non-responsive.
    • Droppings: Check the cage to make sure there are no green droppings or diarrhea. If there are, it might be a sign that the hedgehog has some health issues.
    • Moderate weight: A hedgie that's obese has fat "bags" around the armpit areas and cannot roll into a ball. One that's too thin has a concave belly and hollow sides. Both may be signs of health issues.
    • Healthy feet: The toenails should be clipped short enough that they do not curl under. If they're too long, ask the breeder to show you how to clip them.[2]
  4. Bring the hedgehog home appropriately. Before purchase, make sure you have everything you need set up and ready to go. Allow the hedgehog at least a month to become familiar with you, the new scents, and the new surroundings. It has just experienced a huge change in its life!
    • Hold the hedgehog every day as you let it get used to you. This may be as simple as placing it in your lap and talking to it. Encourage trust by giving it treats by hand, and add an old t-shirt you've worn for a day to its enclosure so it gets accustomed to your smell.[3]
  5. Be prepared for self-anointing, or anting. One of the most unusual behaviors of hedgehogs involves excessive salivation in the presence of a new food, scent, or salt. The hedgie twists into an S shape, turning its head to the rear, and spreads the saliva onto its quills. While no one is quite sure why this happens, it's postulated that this may help make the quills better weapons by coating them with an irritating substance. For this reason, you may notice some slight irritation when you first handle your hedgehog.

Housing Your Hedgehog

  1. Provide a good enclosure. Hedgehogs need a large cage to be comfortable in: they like to explore their living space, and their natural territory is 650 to 1000 ft (198 to 305 m) in diameter. There are other factors to consider, as well, when choosing a cage for your new friend.
    • It needs to be large enough. The cage should be a minimum of 18 x 24 in (45.7 x 61 cm), but if you can afford a roomier space, so much the better. A 24 x 30 in (61 x 76 cm) cage is preferable, and 30 x 30 in (76 x 76 cm) is very generous.[3]
    • Sides of the cage should be about 16 in (40.6 cm) high. While some recommend smooth walls,[4] others caution that ventilation of smooth-sided enclosures is more difficult.[3] Do be aware that wired sides may create a problem if your hedgehog likes to climb! Hedgehogs are master escape artists. Ensure that the cage is secure with a closed top, or, if it doesn't have a top, that the hedgehog can't climb out.
    • The house should have a solid floor, as their tiny legs can slip through wire floors, causing injury.[4]
    • Houses should not have more than one level as hedgehogs have poor eyesight and their legs are all too easy to break. Wire cages that they can climb can also be dangerous if you have a climber! Include space for food bowls, toys and a litter tray when considering buying or making a cage.
    • Make sure the enclosure is well-ventilated. Air flow should be available all the time. The only time you should impede airflow is if the room rapidly drops in temperature (for example, during a power outage) and you need to wrap the cage with a blanket.
  2. Select good bedding material. Hedgehogs like wood shavings, but be sure to use aspen shavings rather than cedar: the latter has carcinogenic phenols (aromatic oils) that, when inhaled, can cause cancer. Alternatively, you can line the cage with a sturdy cloth (twill, corduroy, or fleece) cut to size.[3]
    • Carefresh is a commercial product resembling ground-up grey cardboard. While some recommend this, be aware that particle material can get lodged in male genitals or in between their quills. Also, be aware that Carefresh could harm your hedgehog because of a new formula of Carefresh Bedding. [5]
  3. Furnish the enclosure. You'll need to add a few things to the enclosure to provide for your hedgehog's needs.
    • A hiding spot: As a primarily nocturnal prey animal in the wild, hedgehogs need a safety zone for "time-out" from prying eyes, light, and general activity. An igloo or sleeping pouch will do well.
    • Exercise wheel. Hedgehogs need lots of exercise, and the wheel is perfect for nocturnal running sprees. Wheels should have a solid floor - mesh or bar wheels tend to make hogs get stuck, ripping off toenails and even breaking legs.
    • You must keep bedding out of the water at all times. Chemicals from the bedding can get into your hedgehog's water, which would sadly kill him.
    • Provide a litter tray with no more than a 1/2 in (1.25 cm) lip to provide easy access and prevent broken legs. Be sure that you use only non-clumping kitty litter, if you decide to use litter, or you can use a paper towel. The litter pan must large enough for the hedgehog and you should clean it every day. You can use a cookie sheet or commercial plastic litter box. Most owners keep the litter tray under the wheel, since that is where hedgehogs do most of their business.
  4. Ensure a suitable temperature. Hedgehogs need a slightly warmer room temperature than most people keep their homes at, around 72ºF (22.2ºC) to 80ºF (26.6ºC). Anything cooler and the hedgehog will likely attempt "hibernation," which can be LETHAL (as it may lead to pneumonia), while at much hotter temperatures, heat stress occurs. Adjust the temperature if you see your hedgehog spread out in the cage as if it's hot. If it's lethargic, or the body temperature is cooler than normal, warm your hedgehog up immediately by putting it under your shirt and using your body heat to warm it.
    • If the hedgehog is still cool after an hour, take it to a vet immediately.

Feeding Your Hedgehog

  1. Feed your hedgehog a varied diet. Hedgehogs are primarily insectivores, but will also taste other things like fruits, veggies, eggs, and meat. They tend towards plumpness, so care must be taken with the diet to prevent a hedgehog from putting on too much weight. An overweight hedgehog cannot roll up and may have "bags" of fat hanging down, which will impede its walking ability.
  2. Choose a quality diet. While a hedgehog's exact nutritional needs are somewhat mysterious, high-quality cat kibble is considered a good choice for a staple diet, which should be supplemented with other various foods, discussed below. The kibble you choose should be below 15% fat and around 32-35% protein; look for foods that are organic or holistic - avoid kibble that has by-products, corn and similar things listed. Provide about 1-2 tbsp of the dry cat food every day.
    • Avoid low-quality hedgehog foods as they tend to have a lot of poor quality ingredients. Higher-quality foods may be acceptable, such as L'Avian, Old Mill, and 8-in-1.[5]
  3. Leave kibble out if you are unavailable at mealtime. Many owners free-feed their hogs, giving just enough food for there to be some leftover.
  4. Feed a variety of treats to avoid nutritional deficiencies. Supplement the kibble diet with a small amount of other food - just 1 tsp every day or every other day. Some ideas:
    • Cooked, unseasoned, skinless chicken, turkey, or salmon, chopped up
    • Small bites of fruits and veggies, such as watermelon, cooked mashed peas or sweet potatoes, or applesauce[3]
    • Scrambled or hard boiled & chopped egg
    • Mealworms, crickets and wax worms: These are also an important treat to the hedgehog's diet. As insectivores, they need mental stimulation that eating live prey provides, in addition to vital nutrition. Feed a few insects one to four times a week. Never feed your hedgie wild-caught insects (e.g., ones you catch in your yard), as they may have toxic pesticides in their systems, or parasites that will infect your hedgehog.
  5. Know what foods to avoid. While hedgehogs appreciate a wide variety of foods, there are some things you should never feed him: nuts/seeds, dried fruits, raw meat, hard uncooked vegetables, sticky/stringy/hard foods, avocado, grapes or raisins, milk or dairy products, alcohol, bread, celery, onion and onion powder, raw carrots, tomatoes, junk food (chips, candy, anything sugary, salty, etc.), anything very acidic, or honey.
  6. Adjust food amounts if your hedgehog gains weight. Reduce the amount of food you're giving your hedgehog if you notice she's getting a little plump, and increase exercise.
  7. Feed in the early evening. Hedgehogs have a crepuscular nature, so they are active around twilight. If possible, feed them once a day around this time.
  8. Provide a proper food bowl. The bowl should be wide enough for the hedgehog to access and heavy enough so that the hedgehog cannot tip it over (and start playing with it).
  9. Provide a water bottle with a drinking tube or a water bowl. Fresh water should be available at all times.
    • If using a bowl, make sure it is heavy and shallow enough not to tip over. Wash it thoroughly every day and fill with fresh water.
    • If using a bottle with a drinking tube, make certain your pet knows how to drink from it! It should have learned this from its mother, but it may need to be shown. Note that water in bottles also needs to be changed daily to prevent bacteria build-up.[3]

Keeping Your Hedgehog Happy and Healthy

  1. Keep the hedgehog in a quiet, peaceful space. Don't house the hedgehog under your stereo player or television. As a prey animal in the wild that depends largely on its sense of hearing, your hedgehog will find too much noise and activity very distressing. Ensure that noise, lighting and activity levels are low in its vicinity and move the cage if the noise levels increase for any reason. Hedgehogs can get used to noise if introduced gradually.
  2. Give the hedgie plenty of opportunity for exercise. Hedgehogs are prone to putting on weight, so exercise is a must for them. This means plenty of toys, along with its hedgehog wheel. Toys should be something they can chew, push, nuzzle and even tip over, as long as they cannot chew pieces off or swallow. Be sure their nails or feet can't get caught in any loose strings or small holes.
    • Possible toys include: rubber balls, old kids' toys, rubber figures, baby teething rings, empty toilet paper tubes cut in half lengthwise, cat balls or bird toys with bells inside, etc.[3]
    • Let your hedgehog play in a larger playpen occasionally. You can purchase a large plastic tub or let it explore your bath (without water, of course).
  3. Watch your hog's behavior and food/water intake. Hedgehogs are notoriously good at hiding ailments, so it is extremely necessary to be aware of your hedgehog. Keep track of any changes and call your vet to see if there's something that needs to be checked out.
    • If your hedgehog doesn't eat for one or two days, something is wrong and it needs veterinary attention. Hedgehogs that go for a few days without food are at risk of developing fatty liver disease, a life-threatening condition.[5]
    • Watch out for scaly, dry skin around the quills: this could be a sign of mites, which can be debilitating if left unchecked.
    • Wheezing or crackly respiration as well as discharge on the face or wrists are signs of respiratory infection, a common and serious condition in hedgehogs.
    • Soft stools for more than a day, or diarrhea combined with listlessness or lack of appetite can be signs of a parasite infection or other illness.
    • Hibernation, though occurring in the wild, is not safe for hedgehogs living in captivity. As mentioned above, if your hedgie feels cool on the belly, try to warm him by putting him under your shirt next to your skin. If he does not warm within an hour, bring him immediately to the veterinarian's.[4]
  4. Handle your hedgehog frequently. A hedgehog's familiarity with being held comes with being handled frequently. Always be confident when handling a hedgehog: they are not as fragile as they seem. The general rule is at least 30 minutes a day of handling.
    • Approach your hedgie quietly and slowly. Pick it up by lifting it from underneath, then hold it cupped in both hands.[4]
    • Make time for play. As well as handling your hedgehog, don't be afraid to join in with play. Your hedgehog will accept your involvement in play if you join in regularly.
  5. Clean the hedgehog's home regularly. Clean the dishes and water bottle/bowl daily with hot water. Clean the wheel and spot-clean daily, changing bedding weekly or as needed.
  6. Bathe your hedgehog on an as-needed basis. Some hedgies are cleaner than others, so you may need to Give a Hedgehog a Bath more or less frequently.
    • Fill a sink with warm (not hot) water to the level of the hog's belly. Water should not get in their ears or nose.
    • Add a mild oatmeal bath (such as Aveeno) or puppy bath to the water, and use a toothbrush to brush out their quills and feet.
    • Rinse with warm water and snuggle in a clean, dry towel until your friend is dry. If she'll tolerate it, use a hair dryer on low - otherwise, stick with the towel. Never put a wet hedgie back in its cage.[5]
  7. Be sure to check your hedgehog's nails regularly. If they get too long and curl around, they can get ripped off while running on their wheel.
    • Clip your hog's nails with small manicure scissors, trimming off only the very tips.
    • If bleeding occurs, dab a little cornstarch on the spot with a Q-tip. Don't use commercially available powders, which are apt to sting.[5]
  8. Be prepared for quilling. Quilling is the hedgehog equivalent of our losing baby teeth or a snake shedding its skin. This begins to happen at six to eight weeks of age and can happen throughout their first year of life as the baby quills make way for adult quills. This is a normal process and not something to worry about unless there are signs of illness or discomfort present, or the quills are failing to grow back. Your hedgehog may be irritable during this process and less amenable to being held; you can try an oatmeal bath to ease their discomfort. It is only a phase.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6FApi9kZTk&feature=iv&src_vid=tIRjgMLnI6o&annotation_id=annotation_1145754525

Tips

  • When holding hedgehogs, be gentle - otherwise they will bite.
  • If your house temperature is too cold, bump up the heat with ceramic room heaters, ceramic heat emitters, or, if all else fails, heating pads with the appropriate setting (although these are really not recommended as they can cause severe and life threatening burns). Do not use light bulbs, as they disturb the hedgehog's night-and-day cycle.
  • Be careful with small threads and hair. They can easily wrap around a hedgehog's foot or leg, cutting off the circulation and, if left untreated, requiring the limb to be amputated.
  • When giving your hedgehog a toilet paper roll, cut it in half lengthwise so they don't get stuck.
  • Unless you intend to breed, do not buy a male and female. Hedgehog females can breed from as early as eight weeks, although they are not really able to breed safely until around six months of age. The last thing that is needed is unplanned, unwanted, and inbred babies. If the female is too young, carrying them will kill her. Breeding is very dangerous and expensive. Often times mom and/or babies die, so it should not be entered into lightly.
  • Make sure the breeder you get your hedgehog from has not had WHS (Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome) in their hedgehogs lineage before, as that could easily affect your hedgehog with the same genetic syndrome in the long run. Don't rush to get a hedgehog, do your research first and find the right breeder.
  • If you wish to keep more than one hedgehog, it is advisable to keep them separately. Hedgehogs are solitary creatures, preferring their own company. If they are kept together in the same cage it is very possible that they will fight. Males will fight to the death.
  • Not all veterinarians are familiar with treating hedgehogs. For this reason, it is wise to ask the breeder or pet store where you buy your hedgie for a recommendation in your area. Hedgehog-owner organizations or clubs may also provide lists of vets with hedgehog knowledge. Contact the vet in advance to establish a relationship before any emergencies should arise.
  • Wash your hedgie with a toothbrush and warm water.
  • If you live in a colder place you can purchase an infrared light, no higher than 65 watts. Have it on a timer to turn on during twilight and midnight hours and turn it off in the dawn and evening hours. The infrared will keep your hedgehog warm and also not disturb its activity.
  • If there are no breeders in your area, you may opt to buy a hedgehog from a pet store. In that case, look for the signs of health listed in Part 1, Step 3.[2]

Warnings

  • Do not allow "semi-hibernation" to occur - it is lethal in Pygmy hedgehogs. The most common symptom is severe lethargy and the belly's being cool to the touch. If this happens, take the hog out immediately and place them under your shirt next to your body to warm them up. Continue to do this very gradually with warm but not hot things, such as warmed towels, a covered heating pad set on low, or a bottle or two of warm water. DO NOT put the hedgehog in water to warm them up. If the hedgehog does not revive or does not seem alert within an hour, see a vet immediately.
  • Do NOT under any circumstance use wire or mesh wheels. These are very dangerous, as their toes and claws have been known to get ripped off on these types of wheels and their legs broken. Do NOT use Silent Spinners. Hedgehog toes easily get stuck in the seam of the wheel. Only use solid surface wheels, like the Comfort Wheel, Flying Saucer Wheel, or Bucket Wheels.
  • If you are not very careful they might bite you. Anything with teeth can bite, but it is very rare that a hedgehog will do so because they depend on their quills for protection, rather than their teeth. If a hedgehog does bite you, do not react, as this will often times cause it to bite harder. Sometimes you can push yourself gently into it. Once they have let go be sure not to put them back in their cage, as this will seem like a reward to them.
  • Attention: do not use cedar shavings; it can mix with hedgehog urine and form fumes which are toxic to hedgehogs. Improperly baked pine shavings can form fumes when combined with hedgehog urine - smell the bag before you use it. If it smells heavily of pine, it may be improperly baked. Try for a bag that smells more like wood than pine.
  • Do not mistreat your hedgehog by dropping them, rolling them around when balled up, or throwing them. This will ensure your hedgehog to become permanently irritable and unsociable.
  • Do not confuse normal quilling with loss of quills caused by mite damage, infection or poor diet. If you notice bald spots on your hedgehog, see a vet.

Related Articles

Sources and Citations

  1. ↑ http://www.hedgehogwelfare.org/resources.asp
  2. ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 http://hedgehogvalley.com/choosepog.html
  3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 http://www.hedgehogwelfare.org/Hedgehog_Care_Sheet.pdf
  4. ↑ 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.3 http://www.drexotic.com/care-and-feeding-of-hedgehogs/
  5. ↑ 5.0 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 http://www.hedgehogwelfare.org/Hedgehog_FAQs.pdf

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