Decarbonize a Two Cycle Engine
A two-cycle engine has oil mixed in with the gas for lubrication, and eventually the engine will have to be decarbonized.
Steps
- Note the signs of carbon build-up: longer start-up time and a gradual decrease in power.
- Do the following two steps to postpone cleaning the engine.
- Clean the spark plug and adjust the gap. Unscrew the spark plug and with a thin metal scrapper, scrap off the carbon. A close gap makes the engine easier to start but there is a resultant loss of power. The smallest pocket knife's blade could be used as a scrapper. Clean the carbon off the spark plug, replace if necessary. Spark plug do not have to changed frequently, as long as the gap keeps getting readjusted. The messy, time-consuming task of decarbonization keeps an engine going at optimal capacity.
- Remove the muffler and clean the exhaust port. Use the metal scrapper or a small pocket knife.
- Keep using the engine, after doing the above two things. Eventually the engine will have to be decarbonized.
- Besides the tools, buy a piston ring (or two) and some solvent - do not use gasoline or any other very volatile solvent. Tools and Equipment: a ratchet set with and extension, paint brush, wire brush, assorted screwdrivers and a shallow pan to hold the solvent (kerosene, paint thinner, or some water-soluble solvent are good choices).
- Spray some lubricant on the cylinder head nuts and the muffler bolts and let it sit for a while
- Remove the muffler and the cylinder head. Remove all carbon. If the piston ring(s) is worn, replace it. It easier to clean the piston when it is removed. Whatever the case, be careful when sliding the ring over the piston, the ring breaks easily. The gasket between the cylinder head and the rest of the engine will not have to changed each time the engine is disassembled. If the gasket breaks, replace it.
- Put the cylinder head back on. Look at the size of the four cylinder head nuts, they are small. Evenly tighten the nuts and have it seated evenly so there will be no leakage and to avoid warping the cylinder head. Do not apply excessive pressure when tightening the nuts, a torque wrench is not necessary. It is easy to break the rod (with threading on both ends) that the nut fastens on. If the rod does break, it will break at the threaded area. When the rod breaks on the other end it will have to replaced and may shear off to the extent that a vice grip will not be able to grasp it and twist it out. So,if the four rods with the threaded ends looks worn out, replace them.
- Clean the muffler and exhaust port. Disassemble and decarbonize the muffler is fast, because it is hardy and work on it can be rough and fast.
- Put the muffler back on and replace the gasket here if necessary. Here also, do not overtighten the bolt and break it. If the bolt is worn, replace it, the cost of a bolt is trivial compared to the trouble of having to deal with a broken bolt.
- When using those paste gasket seals with the gasket, be prepared to change the gasket for each decarbing work. Gasket seals makes the gasket for one time use only. Any leakage can be seen by a carbon trail, so if there is no carbon trail, do not use a gasket seal. Bigger gaskets cost money.
Tips
- Don't use gasoline as a solvent. Don't overtighten the nuts and bolts.
- When using the ratchet, grip it away from the handle so the force applied will be without leverage.
