Fix Brassy Hair Color

Dyed blonde hair looks great, but it can be a difficult color to maintain. One of the biggest frustrations is brassiness, which tends to set in a few weeks after the initial dye takes place. Brassy tones are typically yellow or copper in appearance, turning cool blonde shades into warmer hues that you never intended to have. Luckily, there is a lot you can do to prevent brassy tones from setting in. With a little maintenance, you can keep your blonde locks looking brass-free.

Steps

Managing Your Color

1. Determine your brassy tone. When hair color turns brassy, the tones range from yellowish orange to copper. In general, those with darker blonde shades will end up with brassiness that is copper toned, while lighter blonde shades usually lean toward more yellow tones. Once you’ve figured out which camp you fall into, you can more effectively combat your brassy strands.
   • It is possible to have both yellow and copper toned brassiness present in your hair color.
2. Use a blue or purple shampoo a few times per week. Violet hued shampoos will neutralize yellow brassiness. Blue (silver) toned shampoos will cancel out copper brassiness. This works because blue and purple are opposite orange and yellow on the color wheel, effectively counteracting the brassy tones. There is a wide variety of options, ranging from affordable drug store versions to pricey salon products.
   • If you can't determine your brassy tones, or if they seem to be both yellow and copper, use a shampoo that has both purple and blue tones in it.
   • Look for products that claim to be "color correcting" or "tone correcting." You can also ask a clerk at the beauty supply store for recommendations.
3. Alternate with shampoos and conditioners made for color-treated hair. You shouldn’t use blue/purple shampoos every day – stick to using them only a few times each week. In between blue/purple shampoos, use hair products made specifically for color care. There are shampoos, conditioners, masques and more that will help you preserve your color and fight brassiness without the use of blue/violet pigment.
   • Avoid hair care products that are alcohol-based. These will accelerate color fading and dry out your locks.
4. Install a shower head filter. Chlorine and iron deposits in the water supply can cause brassiness and fade your hair color. Investing in a shower head filter might seem a little excessive (they’re about $150) but when you consider how much money can go into coloring your hair, it’s actually quite an investment.
   • Not only is the filtered water a bonus for your hair health, but your skin will love it, too.

Applying Semi-Permanent Products

1. Boost color and minimize brassiness with a foam gloss. These lightweight foams are easy to use and meant to be applied in the shower, immediately after shampooing your hair. The foam boosts color and shine while breaking down brassy tones. The whole process only takes about 5 minutes and it’s extremely effective. These products are gentle enough to use as often as you like, although you will probably only need to use them about once per week.
   • To use, apply to your hair from roots to tip immediately after shampooing. Rinse the foam out immediately or leave it on for 3 minutes to enhance your color, then rinse. Follow it up with a good conditioner.
   • For those with an ash or silver hair tone, you may want to use the mousse every day, post-shampoo.
   • Foam glosses are mostly found at beauty supply stores, but there are a few drugstore versions on the market.
2. Refresh color and tone down brassiness with a temporary rinse. Temporary rinses are applied after you shampoo and towel dry your hair. Saturate your hair with the product and then run a comb through to ensure even distribution. You don’t need to rinse it out after applying – simply blow dry and style your hair as usual. It’s called a temporary “rinse” because the color boost only lasts until your next shampoo, which rinses the product out of your hair.
   • You’ll need to wear rubber gloves when applying the product.
   • Temporary rinses are usually sold exclusively at beauty supply stores.
3. Treat brassiness with a semi-permanent toner. These come in liquid or cream form and the results last about a week (or a few shampoos) before fading. Semi-permanent toners contain no harsh chemicals and therefore they don’t damage your hair – a major plus. You can use them weekly and there are reasonably priced drugstore versions that you can try at home.
   • Apply the toner to clean, dry hair. Leave it on until you’ve achieved your desired color. Results should last 3-6 shampoos.
   • Avoid shampooing immediately after using a semi-permanent toner. You can condition safely immediately after, however, if you like.

Trying Longer Lasting Solutions

1. Enhance your color with lowlights. Lowlighting means to dye darker streaks into your hair and it can add a lot of dimension to your hair color. Lowlights can also neutralize brassy orange tones by introducing darker blonde shades into the mix, creating an overall cooling effect. It’s a procedure best performed by an experienced hair stylist, so lowlighting isn't the cheapest solution.
   • However, the results can be very striking and it’s certainly something to consider if you’ve tried a lot of other things with no success.
   • As with all “permanent” dyes, lowlights may start to fade after about 6-8 weeks.
2. Try a demi-permanent or permanent toner. Both of these solutions provide “long lasting” results, which range from 6-8 weeks. Demi-permanent toners are less damaging to the hair shaft than the permanent variety, with results typically lasting about 6 weeks. Permanent toners will give you about 8 weeks of results. To use, separate your hair into 4 large sections. Work with one section at a time, leaving the other 3 clipped up out of the way.
   • Apply the toner in small sections, starting at the top and working your way down to the ends until you have full coverage.
   • Keep a close eye on the dye as it develops and rinse thoroughly.
3. Minimize fading. Preserving your color can go a long way toward preventing brassiness. Even “permanent” dyes start to fade after about 8 weeks, and frequent dyeing can severely damage you hair. Along with all of the other toning strategies, actively try to prevent your color from fading in the first place. Only wash your hair when it’s necessary – try to avoid daily washing. When you do wash it, use blue/purple toning products. Limit your sun exposure and the use of heating tools, like blow dryers and straight irons.
   • Smoothing serums and other similar products can help you maintain color by sealing your hair cuticle when you apply them.
   • Always condition your hair very well. This also seals the hair cuticle and protects your color.

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